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Can't get coolant up to temp.

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #11  
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Aright thanks!

And once again much appreciated!
 
Old Dec 7, 2009 | 10:24 AM
  #12  
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wow... draining the cooling system on this car REALLY sucks... you (or at least I) cant get more then ~2litres (what is that about half a gallon?) at a time out of the damn thing! are all the cars like this? ive only owned a Lebaron (miss that car) and this Monte LS, never had that problem with the Lebaron, i could get 80-90% of it out..

I had to drain it, refil with clean water, drain, refil... until it was all out.. TOOK FOR EVER

Am i retarded or is there a quick way to get it all out? (aside from paying someone to do it, im sure theres a smart a** that's gonna say it)
 
Old Dec 7, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #13  
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Hmmm....I drain mine from the radiator, and do the drain and refil thing like you. On my car (different engine) If you drain the radiator, thats about half the cooling capacity. Then my t-stat is at the bottom of the engine, stuck in there sideways, so I just remove the t-stat, and coolant comes rushing out of the block. By this point I have about 80% of the old coolant out. Then I do the fill with water and run trick till its completly clean!

Do you have a Hanes manual? There might be a block drain plug, and the manual should tell you where its at if you have it. My Cavalier had a block drain, and radiator drain.
 
Old Dec 7, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #14  
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i do have the book, my dumb *** never thought about looking for something as simple as draining your cooling system... ill take a look tomorrow, good call!
 
Old Dec 7, 2009 | 10:11 PM
  #15  
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LOL! Brain Fart! Its ok, we all have them.

I'm not sure if you have a drain plug on the block, but if you do, it should say in the book. Let us all know what you find. It could be helpful for the 3400 people on here!
 
Old Dec 8, 2009 | 03:54 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Monte2K
Its only two Bolts on the 3.4 as well, its just the one bolt was a f'n nghtmare to get to, and even worse to get back on!! lol
You know that you only need to completely remove the front bolt, right?
The rear bolt is "slotted" and only needs to be loosened with a wrench.
The thermostat housing then lifts up and slides out from the back bolt.
If you're still having trouble, try accessing it from the lower rear instead.
That exhaust crossover can throw you off when viewed from the front.
 
Old Dec 8, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #17  
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Yeah i did know that... but i still had to remove the heat shield, with out it off, there wasnt enough room for the t-stat housing to move past the the actual t-stat.. It went ALOT smoother this time as compared to my first time.. What took most of the time was getting the old coolant/antifreeze out and replacing it with fresh stuff

I will grab my book at lunch and take a peek inside see what i can find!
 

Last edited by One Dark SS; Dec 8, 2009 at 09:20 AM.
Old Dec 10, 2009 | 02:32 PM
  #18  
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The 3100 and 3400 never do get very warm in cold weather. Every car I have driven that was equipped with either of these engines only get to the first quarter on the temp gauge.
 
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 08:16 AM
  #19  
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i am changing my t stat to my car heats up good just the stat is delayed.also you should run antifreeze cleaner in before you flush it it will knock off all the dirt and crap off the walls so when you put new fliud in it doesnt go bad so fast
 
Old Dec 11, 2009 | 09:00 AM
  #20  
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when i live in missouri i unplugged one of my fans for winter. dont no if you have 2 fans or not but thats what i did. I didnt care how cold it ran i just wanted my heater to be hotter LOL
 



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