I've tried the glue. It didn't work. Soldering over my head just resulted in solder dripping all over the seat. I'm ready to have a professional fix this however, no one seems to do it! The window repair, electrical repair, window tinting, nobody does this. Can any one tell me what type of auto repair place would be able to fix this? Thanks

 

Which "glue" product product did you try?

I used this one: Frost Fighter 2000 Defroster Tab Bonding Kits

It was tricky. Had to use it in a warm (70`F) room, and use a heat gun with it held firmly in place for several minutes until it dried enough for it to not move. Thought it was going to be a failure as I was losing patience through the process, but it did work in the end. I doubt it would work if temperature was lower and I didn't use a heat gun.

 

Mine in my IMP went bad. I tried to use a Bonding Glue made for mending this and I have done it many times for others in the past with this glue however that was to mend the brake in the trace. For what ever reason it didnt't want to work for me. I think it was to cold. I did everything it said. I can test it and there is power there at the Glue just not making it into the connection for the grid. I ended up using my SMD Rework to take it off and soldered it on. Sadly if you set the temp to low it just seems to only want to melt solder and not bond. I had to turn my iron up a little to make a good connection. First time I tried it with my Weller WP25 iron. Wasn't hot enough to make things work right, for me anyway. So I broke down and bought out my Hakko 951 and it did a fast job of it.

If the area is not in a good spot for making a repair may need to look at replacing the glass. Even though mine works for now. I will replace my Rear window before next winter.

James

 

I used the FrostFighter product also. Had to heat the area with a hairdryer but it worked. The Permatex stuff failed.

 

I used the permatex product.

 

I committed to fixing the defroster tab now. Tinting my windows has been on my list of things to do so when the tinting guy said he would solder on the tab, I jumped. Tint looks great but he couldn't get the tab to stick either!

This other product looks like its work a try.

Thanks for all the replys.

 

I resoldered mine back on. Its a pita. scrape as much of the old solder off the tab on the metal peice and on the window tab with a solder gun. Wipe off solder gun tip. Repeat till minimal layer of solder on both parts. Hold metal piece with pliers, apply a small solder bead where its going to meet the window, let it cool. Use the pliers and hold the metal peice with solder ball against the window tab. Keep pressure with pliers heat metal peice with solder gun when liquid press then remove gun and hold with pliers until cool. Worked for me once like a charm and another time took me 3 attempts. Be careful not to burn off window segments by heating too long. Flat tip solder iron helps. Another set of hands as well. Where the 2 parts meet having good clean solder so the parts join was key in my experience.

 

I tried conductive copper tape but still no defrost. The good epoxy cost $50. How do you test the attachment to see if it's getting current? The window tab fits into a slot in the clip. I can't see where the two probes would go. Don't want to destroy the clip to find out if it's working.

 

Put the Ground lead on a good ground on the car. Then with the Red lead touch the lead where it connects. There is in most cases a bend off the glass where you can get your test probe lead.

with the System off, you can test the one on the passenger side *Ground* and the one on drivers side lower area of the glass in Ohm setting if you have diode mode or beep able setting is best. When you touch the 2 parts if it beeps there is good conenction through the grid. If not and there is good contact at both places look over all the grid for a broken trace.

 

Another way to test for continuity is with a multi-meter. Touch one lead to the tab on the passenger side and the other lead to the tab on the driver side. This will test the grid and so long as you get an ohm reading the circuit is complete. You should be able to feel the heat on the glass. If not, touch the lead directly to the grid line closest to the tab you're repairing with the other lead on the good tab. This tests the grid past the tab. If you don't have a multi-meter Frost Fighter sells a test light for about $10. There is also detailed troubleshooting info. on their website:

Frost Fighter Defroster Repair and Replacement Kits