4th Gen ('81-'88): Brake bleeding issues after new calipers
#1
Brake bleeding issues after new calipers
Hey friends, Just finished putting a complete 2 inch drop spindle package w/
new ball joints, calipers, rotors and pad on my 87 MC.
The old calipers and lines did not leak and worked ok but the calipers were 30
years old. The problem has been that I have been plagued with leaks at the banjo bolt sealing washers. Going past the torque specs with no luck on sealing. I've been through 6 pairs of washers. 2 set of bolts.
Bleeding the brakes has been a real bit#h. Finally got the driver side to clear up. The passenger side continues to bubble. And the odd part is when bleeding this side even after the bleeder screw is closed bubbles continue to
flow from the bleeder screw hose into the container.
I drove the car and it pulls to the left as if the air in the lines is causing the driver side caliper to grip more than the right which is what I expected to happen. I'm thinking the lines might be the culprit.
Any help would be awesome. jake
new ball joints, calipers, rotors and pad on my 87 MC.
The old calipers and lines did not leak and worked ok but the calipers were 30
years old. The problem has been that I have been plagued with leaks at the banjo bolt sealing washers. Going past the torque specs with no luck on sealing. I've been through 6 pairs of washers. 2 set of bolts.
Bleeding the brakes has been a real bit#h. Finally got the driver side to clear up. The passenger side continues to bubble. And the odd part is when bleeding this side even after the bleeder screw is closed bubbles continue to
flow from the bleeder screw hose into the container.
I drove the car and it pulls to the left as if the air in the lines is causing the driver side caliper to grip more than the right which is what I expected to happen. I'm thinking the lines might be the culprit.
Any help would be awesome. jake
Last edited by RebelYell; 01-08-2017 at 03:20 PM.
#2
So someone is still applying pressure while you close the bleeder screw and then that's when you notice air bubbles and fluid are still flowing? Would that not just mean the bleeder screw is not seating in the closed position? Because if it did seat and close there is no way anything is getting past it. Perhaps the calipers are remanufactured and it had a stripped bleeder valve sleeve and they did not catch it during the process, they could have tapped it to clean up the threads and some knucklehead went to far and bottomed it out the valve cannot seat or the valve is cracked.
Have you tried doubling up the washers? They are paper thin, perhaps that could give you more clamping pressure.
Have you tried doubling up the washers? They are paper thin, perhaps that could give you more clamping pressure.
Last edited by ZIPPY02; 01-09-2017 at 11:47 PM.
#3
Yes I think the calipers could be the problem even the lines. Need to do more
checks to see what the cause is. I know that bubbles coming from the bleeder when closed is a bad sign pointing to the caliper.
checks to see what the cause is. I know that bubbles coming from the bleeder when closed is a bad sign pointing to the caliper.