Thanks. Did that before you posted then fell asleep from aggrevation. Wasn't sure if that would tell it or not cause I watched some vids that said your finger isn't enough to keep it depressed fully long term. But she returns to the uncompressed position immediately like zero vacuum. I can't believe the choke light will come on based off vacuum. I need to do more research apparently. Looking up choke/oil light causes/symptoms definately doesn't tell you that. Even in the book.

Gonna order a new one. Maybe get a new main carb gasket while I'm at it.

 

I'm meant to say...
I meant..Once you change out the oil sending unit that the light will/should go off...lol

Not by merely fixing the loss of vacuum via the choke pull off..
I was thinking it... I just didn't type it...

 

Yah changed it out yesterday no change. I looked at the inside of the circuit that connects to the oil pressure switch and looked ok but didn't test it.

I started her up this morning. Almost same as yesterday with a twist. Fast idle cam was not on it's highest step and the choke pulloff had to be pushed in for it to run properly same as yesterday. Except today when I rev the engine the damn choke plate won't open fully. I might not of let it warm up long enough cause it wasn't on it's lowest step when I did it. Ahh f it. Gonna wait til the new choke pulloff gets here and get some new hoses and try it out. I can't believe she won't run right without the choke pulloff. Wanted to try closing off the choke pulloff altogether and pushing it in to open the choke plate that extra bit to see if it would have the same effect but it's rainin.

Anyway til next week. I go in there check that out then I check out the steering column wires and that's gonna have to be it for me. Oh and lift the carb up check the main gasket just incase none of that fixes it. Then I'm callin in the professionals. Damn I could just go out there and check every single connector/wire with a volt meter and say hell with it after that instead of takin it to the dealer. Dealer around here takes good care of my Monte. Rebuilt the engine for me when I got her.

Hate to go that route though.

Isn't the carb supposed to run well without the pulloff? I gotta check the choke in the morning cause apparently the damn thing isn't even opening unless it's gotta take it 10 min atleast which doesn't really sound right seeing as it's 52F out. Also I turned the choke like 4 notches more lean which mean it should open up even faster. Gah the waiting. If my parts stores had my parts in stock things would be alot faster. I should just go get a rebuild kit and do that.

 

had a thought that I'm losing alot of vacuum because of the bad pulloff. So when I manually press it in it seals that vacuum which is why it runs perfect when I do that. Because manually opening the choke plate to where the pulloff would do it doesn't make the car run perfect. The pulloff has to be pushed in. I think that's how it's going. I'd have to recheck to make sure that's what I noticed. In the morning. tired.

 

Ok ugh yesterday after the car was warmed up. I adjusted the thermostat warm like I said earlier. Ok she ran perfect high idle but without having to press in the choke pulloff. And kicked down perfectly as well. Also revving the engine at the carb the plate opens up fully. Today I guess I didn't let it warm up enough to recreate this but somebody put 2 and 2 together here cause I keep getting diff results daily. Today revving the engine does not open the plate up but I didn't pay attention to where the high idle cam was in relation to yesterday....... GAH!! Ok waiting til the part gets here.

 

Wow I just typed that stuff and closed the window without pushing enter. So I'm gonna make a shorter version. I readjusted the choke cold today and went by this video which confirmed what I was thinking. Link: . Only thing different I did was I had to very lightly press up on the choke plate to make sure I was getting tension against the coil thermostat when I had the opening 1/16" - 1/8" to be accurate. Other than actually measuring the distance with a ruler or drill bit.

Started her up and she ran with a slightly rough idle til I pushed in the choke pulloff and held it til the coil opened up the plate past the pulloff. Then released it and it kept high idle. The cam won't kick down to the lowest step by pressing the pedal until the choke coil is fully open. Which the plate does open up now when you rev the engine after the choke plate is off the coil and on the lowest step of the fast idle cam. Which is great.

So anyway ran across a new problem(YEP ANOTHER ONE!). I took her around the block. 45mph at most for maybe 5 min. I come back and put her in park and she sounds like rough idle. Ok so then I manually rev the engine to about 200-400 rpm more than she was at the rough idle. And she drops down the rpm some from what I raised it to and sounds like a good regular idle like after I kicked the cam down earlier by pressing the pedal. And it holds that idle.

So could this be the Idle Air Control valve? I do see the IAC working. Where you manually rev the engine. That rod that pushes against it is going in and out. Is there a better way to diagnose? Or am I looking in the wrong spot?

I'm still waiting on the pulloff to get in and get some hoses to replace them all and check the oil pressure with the tester that's also coming in monday or so. Seems like I need to change all my hoses and all my external engine parts. Might as well do all the 60,000 mile stuff now instead of late next yr.

In the video he does note he got rich and lean backwards in his description.

 

You certainly seem to have the same reoccurring issue which tends to make me believe you have a vacuum leak somewhere...

I think once you change out the vacuum lines its quite possible it could return to normal..

One way to diagnoss vacuum leaks would be to spray starting fluid(Not recommended) But works.. In and around the bottom of the carb and all vacuum lines and even around the manifold ... You never know where you may find a leak..I would even check around the brake booster and vacuum lines..

The way to tell if theres a problem area... the motors RPM's will increase.
Or you could use WD40 which will cause the motor to stumble and or stahl...

 

Yah the hoses are being squeezed in by the vacuum. Will change ofcourse. Oil pressure tester came in early. Gonna do that sunday probably. When the pulloff gets here I'll get the hoses and change all that out.

I did a test with a spray bottle and water and misted the connections didn't find any bubbling. Dried the water off after.

But yah she ran perfect when I started her up and held the choke pulloff in. She kicked down to the lowest step on the cam after the coil warmed up completely. And she drove perfect until I got back to the house. Then that rough idle started etc.

Either way I think I got a exposed wire or wire that's not supposed to be touching metal either way. That metal that's holding the steering wheel up and where those wires go through is probably the thickest metal on the entire car through and through. Which is the only wires I was messing with. Might not of put the wires back through the cover like I was supposed to. Or I overpulled on them when feeding them back through. Just recently had a phone charger that went out from pulling on one of the ends too much. Which should be the source of my light problem. The blower motor's brand new and the relay and resistor is brand new as well. Not to say I might of bought some bad parts. I'd have to check it with the voltmeter.

 

Oh for pete's sake!!!!! Got this info that tells me what oil pressure should be on every fin car but mine. There's not a single fin chevy or buick on the damn list. But it comes with the connectors that go on my car!! I can't find this reference material anywhere for my car. Not online and not in this PIECE OF CRAP HAYNES MANUAL!!!! My god. Somebody gimme some info on this or where to look. Been looking for 2 hrs!!!!!!!!

 

The Chilton's manual I have says a 1984 229 2bbl should have 45psi oil pressure at 2000rpm.