It has been changed. It didn’t make a difference and I believe it was sending the correct signal after changed but that was a while ago.

 

Any Check Engine codes?

 

No codes, no leaks, no other intake components to change other than the temp sensor and the live data shows the temps are being read correctly.

Should I get the computer checked out?

 

Have you used a vacuum gauge to rule out leaks?

 

Haven’t used one, don’t know where to get one around here so I’ll probably use a vacuum cleaner or a air compressor. I don’t have a lot of faith in that as it doesn’t act like a vacuum leak because how inconsistent it is. If it acted the same every time I could see it being a leak but sometimes it idles higher than other times, sometimes it’ll run right for a moment at start up just to rev up. At times it’ll crank and sit at about 1200rpm only to slowly climb up to 2500+.

So I’ll keep an eye out for leaks but I really don’t think it is one.

 

If it was me I would inspect all the Vacuum lines and connections in the experience I have had they cause a lot of issues. sometimes they won't cause any but the Vac line can be cracked someplace or came off. On my sons MC years ago the thing was hard starting, wouldn't stay running and I checked it out and found the line going to the brake booster was off. Looked like it had just popped off. made the re-connection and everything was good to go.
Then on an SUV I had the Vac line was cracked and was a pain but you couldn't see it until I removed the entire hose it was a hose with in a hose. fixed that and wala...........

 

I pressurized the intake with some compressed air and with a balloon over the inlet of the throttle body and it all seemed to hold air, didn’t hear any hissing. Plugged off the crank case ventilation from the back valve cover as well as the brake booster and it acted no different. Smoke isn’t drawn to any particular, ether doesn’t make a change. I feel like that’s a decent check for leaks but if I should try something different let me know

 

Anyone got any ideas? It seems to be running very rich as adding any additional only makes the engine slow down.

 

Have you tried using a vacuum gauge yet?

Just find a vacuum line to T into.

 

I have not but I have pressure tested all of it, isolated components as wells, checked all lines and junctions. Plus in my experience a vacuum leak always ran lean, not so rich it couldn’t take any more fuel.