Opinion Needed: 2003 Monte Carlo
Morning everyone got a question to pick your brains at. I have an opportunity to get a 2003 Monte Carlo SS has a 3.8. engine sounds good transmission sounds good it does have an issue and before I pull the trigger and decide on it I want some opinions. The car does not run hot but it does run a little warmer than halfway on gauge , I would say between the halfway and 3/4 mark. Car has no to very little heat, the guy I'm getting it from thinks that the radiator needs of flush. I was just concerned could it possibly do you all think be a head gasket issue, or would you think it would be safe to get the car and just maybe flush the system and replace the radiator. There is no oil in the water and no water in the oil. Has lots of miles on it but I know if these 3.8s are taken care of they can put even more on it safely has 194k right now. Just need some thoughts and opinion.
I would ask for definitive proof of when the trans was last replaced or just plan to get a rebuild. I am positive youll need it at that mileage.
My experience with these cars has made me believe that EVERYONE sells as soon as they notice trans issues. Ive bought too many 38s (and an LS4) with a bad trans to ever trust one.
A little above half on the gauge seems normal as long as it never spikes. If there is any spiking, look into it further.
The no heat issue is probably due to a clogged up heater core. Not the worst job but youll be upside down a bit.
My experience with these cars has made me believe that EVERYONE sells as soon as they notice trans issues. Ive bought too many 38s (and an LS4) with a bad trans to ever trust one.
A little above half on the gauge seems normal as long as it never spikes. If there is any spiking, look into it further.
The no heat issue is probably due to a clogged up heater core. Not the worst job but youll be upside down a bit.
I would ask for definitive proof of when the trans was last replaced or just plan to get a rebuild. I am positive youll need it at that mileage.
My experience with these cars has made me believe that EVERYONE sells as soon as they notice trans issues. Ive bought too many 38s (and an LS4) with a bad trans to ever trust one.
A little above half on the gauge seems normal as long as it never spikes. If there is any spiking, look into it further.
The no heat issue is probably due to a clogged up heater core. Not the worst job but youll be upside down a bit.
My experience with these cars has made me believe that EVERYONE sells as soon as they notice trans issues. Ive bought too many 38s (and an LS4) with a bad trans to ever trust one.
A little above half on the gauge seems normal as long as it never spikes. If there is any spiking, look into it further.
The no heat issue is probably due to a clogged up heater core. Not the worst job but youll be upside down a bit.
I would put a scanner on it and get exact readings. Ive never used a t-stat above 180 so my gauge stays way low. I honestly dont remember exactly where it should be but that sounds normal. -BUT, with a scanner and stock thermostat, you should see temps around 195-205 at the highest. I wouldnt trust the gauges in these cars, theyre junk and malfunction quite often. Especially with that kind of mileage.
A cooling system issue wouldnt be a huge deal to fix as long as its not spiking and staying consistent, no oil/coolant mixing. I would focus on that trans.
What color is the coolant and trans fluid?
Later today anyway I'm going back with a scan tool and also going to take it for a test ride. Coolant is green so my guess is probably gummed and clogged up from mixing coolant. Price is really good though that he takes 700 for it. He says he just doesn't use it but we know how people can exaggerate
I agree on the temp gauge - they're just a glorified dummy light. Nice to see if its pegged cold / engine isn't up to temp yet or pegged hot / need to shut it off asap, but everything in between is a crapshoot. Its one thing if you drove that specific car every day and knew it always sat around x% when warmed up, but not being familiar with that specific car - I wouldnt give much thought to where its sitting if its not at either extreme.
One other thing to keep in mind is GM gauges aren't always linear either (often intentionally). My GTO for example - the 3/8 hash mark on the gauge covers about a 50 degree temperature range just within that tiny sliver of the hash mark. So even if the car's cooling is broken, the needle will climb steadily up to that mark, stall for awhile (even though actual temp is going up still), then resume climbing above - at which point it is actually getting really hot.
Sounds like you're on the right track with bringing the scan tool to get the hard numbers. Thats the only way to know for sure.
As for the heater - Id turn the heater on once the engine is warm and feel the heater hoses. If they're hot, that means the heater core is hot - so it could be an issue with the hvac actuators not moving the door correctly. If the hoses are cold / you don't feel any fluid flow - the cooling system may be plugged up. If thats the case, I'd worry about the health of the engine as it has some smaller coolant passages too.
As for the price, IMO $700 isnt a crazy smoking hot deal. Certainly $1k or less for anything that runs and drives is good these days, but Id still at least try to negotiate lower given the issues. You're the one taking a big risk that this could be a pile of junk / only worth a couple hundred in scrap metal. Just takes one larger failure (like a transmission as whtmonte pointed out) for the car to be financially totalled.
One other thing to keep in mind is GM gauges aren't always linear either (often intentionally). My GTO for example - the 3/8 hash mark on the gauge covers about a 50 degree temperature range just within that tiny sliver of the hash mark. So even if the car's cooling is broken, the needle will climb steadily up to that mark, stall for awhile (even though actual temp is going up still), then resume climbing above - at which point it is actually getting really hot.
Sounds like you're on the right track with bringing the scan tool to get the hard numbers. Thats the only way to know for sure.
As for the heater - Id turn the heater on once the engine is warm and feel the heater hoses. If they're hot, that means the heater core is hot - so it could be an issue with the hvac actuators not moving the door correctly. If the hoses are cold / you don't feel any fluid flow - the cooling system may be plugged up. If thats the case, I'd worry about the health of the engine as it has some smaller coolant passages too.
As for the price, IMO $700 isnt a crazy smoking hot deal. Certainly $1k or less for anything that runs and drives is good these days, but Id still at least try to negotiate lower given the issues. You're the one taking a big risk that this could be a pile of junk / only worth a couple hundred in scrap metal. Just takes one larger failure (like a transmission as whtmonte pointed out) for the car to be financially totalled.
Last edited by bumpin96monte; Jun 15, 2024 at 04:17 AM.
Have any of you guys put in aftermarket gauges? I don't want to change out the stock cluster, but I thought about those cups that mount on the A-pillar for two or three gauges for more precise oil and water temps, and perhaps voltage. Any other ideas?
Ive messed around with a couple of them but ended up removing them. Always had to mold and shape them with a heat gun to get them to fit properly as I never could find gauge pods specifically for the 6th gens. What Ive settled on and what Ive had for the past several years are single pods attached to the A pillar. IMO the singles look much better than what I could ever accomplish with the universal pods that I had to mold myself. -And another big plus is the visibility with singles. The 2-3 gauge pods blocked a pretty big portion of view out the front window. It was to the point where I didnt feel it was as safe as it could be.










