Liberator,

Also get your money back from AutoZone. I got my money back from Murray's. Later.

 

quick question guys... from doing ALL these switches of switched (hey, that was a word play.. :P ) could someone take some pics, show us how your getting it all torn apart and put back together? what tools ya need and what not? I was going to try a scrap yard, but I kinda need to know how to get the thing out. lol

 

Sorry but didn't take any pictures when I did the job. It's not that hard, although you do have to take the door trim off to access the switch. I don't know but maybe a Haynes or Chilton's repair manual has the step by step instructions. But here is a quick guide.

Open Door
Remove phillips head screw by lower right window on trim
Remove phillips screw in middle of door somewhere that mounts the lock / unlock/ handle assembly to the rest of the door trim.
Remove 2 torx head screws underneath the big handle
This should be it for fasteners.
Pry the top of the door trim away from the door. You might need to be firm to disengage those darn plastic clips.
And then work your way around the door and at the bottom until the trim comes off the door.
Switches and lock / unlock assembly are still connected so you can put the lock assy through the hole in the door trim to get it out of your way. You dont need to disconnect.
You will need to disconnect the power window switch, power mirror switch, and the door lock switch and whatever other connectors you have there so you can remove the trim completely from the car. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the clip on the switches if you cant get them by hand.
Now you should have the trim out of the car. The window switch is secured by two metal clips or plastic pins into a plastic housing. With your screwdriver pry around the sides of the switch so you disengage the clips and it should slide down and out the bottom of the housing.

BUY A OEM SWITCH FROM CHEVY DONT BUT ONE FROM A AUTO PARTS STORE

Installation is the reverse of above. The clips that attach the trim to the door should stay in place when you take it off. When you put the trim back on after hooking everything up you should just have to line it up and tap it around the edges and it should go back on.

Hope this helps, it isnt that hard OK. Good luck.

 

I have had all the described problems listed above on my wifes 2002, finally bought the GM FACTORY part and the POS lasted less than 24hrs. I just got off the phone with ACDELCO and they are telling me there may be another problem, I say bull s#$%, because my original switch just quit working on the up, now the switches keep going out on the down. I am so tired of fooling with this thing and hearing all the excuses for POS made in china crap. If there are any GM techs on here would somebody please help with this matter?

 

Hey,

You might have something else going on. Like I mentioned earlier, my problem was with the switches I bought from Murray's. Fried one in a few days, the other 5 minutes after I installed it. Got the OEM switch from a Chevy dealership and it has worked fine since July. Grab your voltmeter and do some readings when you activate the switch up and down at the motor. You should get 12 volts in either direction. If you dont, then the switch is not sending power to the motor. Go from there. Good luck, I know this gets annoying.

 

I have a 2002 Monte and i have replaced the window switch twice. The first time the man from O'rielly assured me that it was just a issue with a malfuntioned switch i said okay went on my way with a new one. Worked for 3 days and now my car window has duct tape and plastic on it tonight because it decided not to go up at 10 pm tonight. as i've seen by these posts this is obviously a issue with montes and im curious if anyone has taken it to see if wiring could be a problem ? thanks for reading

 

I have a 02 Monte and have the exact same issues listed here. Today I put in a new switch from Advanced Auto and it allowed the driver window to go down but not up.
I have ordered an new part and will get it tomorrow. If this does not work, what did the part cost from the dealership?? I paid about 42 dollars after tax from Advanced Auto.

I also have a problem with the hazard and turn signals. Both do not work. I have a new Hazard switch but am unsure as how to dismantle the dash to replace the switch. Am told this could take care of my turn signal issue. I was quoted $750 to fix the turn signal problem. No way in hell am I paying that type of money.

 

Hey Spartan,

I had problems with aftermarket switches from Murray's / O'Reilly's. Two of them burnt out immediately after plugging them in. I bought the OEM AC Delco switch from a Chevy dealership and it has been almost a year without any more issues. The switch was around $60 with taxes I think. A little bit more $$ than the auto parts stores, but it should work. I am guessing that the second switch you get from Advanced will fry out as well if you install it. Get your money back and go to a Chevy dealership. As for the hazard switch, $750 bucks is ridiculous. I had the same problem. But mine did not stop working completely. They would cut out intermittently. Pressing the hazard switch a few times (or banging on it) would get it to work again. New switch, problem solved. The switch that I got from Chevy costs about $35. If you bought the switch you already have from the auto parts store, it might be a good idea to return it and get a OEM switch from Chevy since you need to get the window switch from them anyway. Might have similar trouble like the door window switch with the non OEM part. You never know. Buy a Haynes repair manual (they should have them at any auto parts store, about $20) and the procedure to remove the dash cover is listed step by step in the manual. I did it and it took about an hour or so. It is not that hard. Seems like the hazard switch causing turn signal issues is a big problem on these cars. They are tied together for some dumb reason. On another forum a lot of people complained about this issue and replaced the hazard switch. That seemed to do the trick. Worked for me. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

I finally took the Monte to an auto electric shop, they checked all connections, motor, etc., nothing wrong. They put a new switch in that was totally different from any of the other 3 that I had installed, including the one that I got from the local GM dealership. The damn thing has worked fine for about a month now (keeping my toes crossed) the switch that the shop put in is the exact same as the original, all of the others were just a little different the shop could not or would not tell me where they got the damn thing, but they said it was not any of the place that I had purchased from.

 

Hey everybody, just wanted to update my situation. Turns out the driver side front hub was bad. Replaced tie rod end on the same side as well. Had tires balanced again. Still vibrating. Found out today from Firestone, where I took the car to get an alignment, that the lower control arm bushings on both sides need to be replaced. The suspension was not handling bumps as smoothly as it used to, even with new Gabriel struts. I was told that is a crappy brand but I did not know that at the time I bought them. I was about to replace them again with some Monroes. Anybody have this bushing / suspension problem here? Window switch is still working after 9 months, and to the last poster, I replaced my hazard switch yesterday. It was not that bad. Haynes manual lays it out real nice. Took 1 1/2 hours total, if that. Take care everybody.