Opinion Needed: 76 monte 350 problem popping through carb
#23
Good to hear and thanks for the update
Looks clean and pretty.
Here go a couple of pix of mine from two-years ago…
Mine has been my daily driver since 1984 so she gets driven alot; not as clean as yours.
I see you installed an oil pressure gauge adjacent to the throttle linkage. I have the factory gauge cluster but I added an oil pressure gauge and a volt gauge on the A-pillar. I used a "T" fitting so I would still have the idiot light sender.
I see there is no AC compressor; why?
I also noticed the heater valve was omitted; was that intentional?
Looks clean and pretty.
Here go a couple of pix of mine from two-years ago…
Mine has been my daily driver since 1984 so she gets driven alot; not as clean as yours.
I see you installed an oil pressure gauge adjacent to the throttle linkage. I have the factory gauge cluster but I added an oil pressure gauge and a volt gauge on the A-pillar. I used a "T" fitting so I would still have the idiot light sender.
I see there is no AC compressor; why?
I also noticed the heater valve was omitted; was that intentional?
#27
If you choose to flip it, I recommend reinstalling the AC compressor & hoses, and get it working. Cold AC brings in more money.
If you decide to keep it, I encourage you to put the compressor etc. back in, upgrade to a clutch cycling system with an orifice tube, and install a heater valve. You see, the AC does more than just cool you and your passengers on warm days, it dehumidifies the air when you defog the windshield. The heater valve works in tandem with the HVAC system to arrest the flow of hot coolant to the heater core thus preventing the passenger compartment from heating up when you don't want it to, such as on hot days.
Also, I recommend you upgrade your alternator and charging wire. The 1976 Monte Carlo came from the factory with a 10SI alternator. Those alternators maxed out a 63 amps. If its a cold rainy night, running the lights, heater/defroster, windshield and radio draws lots of current which makes the alternator work really hard. The alternator creates heat as it generates current; the more current it generates, the hotter it gets. Efficient cooling is essential to helping the alternator last longer. Starting in about 1983, GM came out with the 12SI alternator which maxes out at 95 amps. It has a better design for better cooling and more amperage at low RPMs. The best thing about it is it's a drop-in upgrade, no need to change terminals or brackets, just bolt on, plug and play. As for the charging wire, from the factory, it's 10ga. That's barely sufficient for what's expected of it. Once again, using Ohm's law, V=IR which is volts = current × resistance, heat is generated as current flows through the charging wire (a conductor). The easiest way to manage this is to reduce resistance and to do that, increase the size if the conductor. So, upgrading to an 8ga charging wire helps reduce resistance to current flow thus reducing heat and making the alternator not work so hard. In short, the charging system will be more robust and reliable.
I see it's got a new break master cylinder. Did you install that or did you have a shop do it?
How do the brakes feel?
If you decide to keep it, I encourage you to put the compressor etc. back in, upgrade to a clutch cycling system with an orifice tube, and install a heater valve. You see, the AC does more than just cool you and your passengers on warm days, it dehumidifies the air when you defog the windshield. The heater valve works in tandem with the HVAC system to arrest the flow of hot coolant to the heater core thus preventing the passenger compartment from heating up when you don't want it to, such as on hot days.
Also, I recommend you upgrade your alternator and charging wire. The 1976 Monte Carlo came from the factory with a 10SI alternator. Those alternators maxed out a 63 amps. If its a cold rainy night, running the lights, heater/defroster, windshield and radio draws lots of current which makes the alternator work really hard. The alternator creates heat as it generates current; the more current it generates, the hotter it gets. Efficient cooling is essential to helping the alternator last longer. Starting in about 1983, GM came out with the 12SI alternator which maxes out at 95 amps. It has a better design for better cooling and more amperage at low RPMs. The best thing about it is it's a drop-in upgrade, no need to change terminals or brackets, just bolt on, plug and play. As for the charging wire, from the factory, it's 10ga. That's barely sufficient for what's expected of it. Once again, using Ohm's law, V=IR which is volts = current × resistance, heat is generated as current flows through the charging wire (a conductor). The easiest way to manage this is to reduce resistance and to do that, increase the size if the conductor. So, upgrading to an 8ga charging wire helps reduce resistance to current flow thus reducing heat and making the alternator not work so hard. In short, the charging system will be more robust and reliable.
I see it's got a new break master cylinder. Did you install that or did you have a shop do it?
How do the brakes feel?