I appreciate the information.
I did not realize I would end up with a lower volume level by using after market speakers with a factory deck.

I am trying to avoid changing the head unit and adding an amplifier. Unfortunately, my car does not have the factory amplifier.

It seems like I will need to use factory speakers to maintain a higher volume.

Thanks for suggestion and clarification on component verse standard speakers.

Question: Is it hard to change the rear speakers?

Question: Would it mean that I would have a overall lower volume for my system with after market speakers and factory deck?

 

Changing the rears is no harder than changing the fronts. Check the how-to section for a write-up, I think there is one for both like mentioned above.

Efficiency actually refers to how much power it takes to reach a certain volume; aftermarket speakers will require more power than factory speakers to reach the same volume. The fact that factory speakers are 2 ohms and most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms makes it worse since the aftermarket speakers will only get half the power.

That being said, recently another forum member who knows his stuff was saying that after replacing all of his speakers, while it was quieter than before, he could simply turn the volume to a higher setting than before and they were loud enough. So at the least, expect to be turing your volume **** up higher.

 

I was looking into getting the Infinity Kappa 63.9i.

Any audio guru know anything about the specs I should be aware of.

I saw they are 2 Ohms which is why I was looking at them

 

I am going to pull off my door panels this weekend. What is the best way to pull these out? I have found 4 screws to be removed. I know from past cars that clips hold the panel on... should I plan on buying replacement clips? Is it easy to damage taking it apart? What about the power window, power mirror, and door handle area-- will there be any surprises?

Thanks in advance for answering my questions and sharing any experiences with this task.

 

This is the inside of my 2000 SS door. It should be pretty similar to yours. You can see you'll have to unclip the window and lock buttons from the panel, which can be a little tricky your first time since you can only get so much room with the cables tying the panel to the door. You can also get a general idea of the locations of all of the clips. You'll definitely want new clips too since you'll most likely destroy all the factory ones; it's hard/impossible to avoid. As long as you don't pull stupidly hard on the panel in it's weak points, I wouldn't worry about breaking it. Apply the pressure as close to the clips as you can when popping them loose.

 

Thank you very much for that picture and information. That is exactly what I needed to know and the picture really helped me to see what is involved. I am going to stop by the dealer and get the clips this afternoon.

I do see that the speaker in the picture is a component speaker. Was it hard to install your after market speaker or did it fit right in place? Is there an additional part for component speakers? When looking at crutchfield, the pictures show 2 little square boxes, 2 woofers, and 2 tweeters.

 

Yep, the two square boxes are called crossovers, and these are built into the factory woofer which is why you don't see them. You'll have to mount them to the door by the method of your choice. I used velcro because I completely deadened my door and had a nice solid surface to velcro them to. I don't expect you'll be doing that, so my suggestion would be to screw the crossover to that large piece of styrofoam. To have room for it behind the door panel, there is a piece of foam on the door panel itself that you may need to remove; the foam is just glued to the panel.

Ths speaker should fit right into the factory hole after removing the little factory alignment tabs if they're there. Screw holes should line up and everything. For the tweeter, you can mount it to the factory location but probably not by the factory method. The factory tweeter is screwed in place with a single screw from behind which is something I couldn't do with my aftermarket tweeter, so I simply superglued mine in place. Might sound kinda ghetto/stupid, but it's actually pretty common. It doesn't take much glue to hold it in place and it can be easily broken loose if I want it to come back off. Since pictures are always nice, here's another of my door when I was done.

 

lmao. changing the 6x9s took me three hours. i had to figure out how to get that rear deck off. i'm sure there a write up.



also yes unfortionatly you will lose some loudness, but if your changing the speakers and keeping the factory deck theres no point anyways. yes they wont sound distorted anymore but they arent going to sound great untill you get an aftermarket deck.

trust me i have the factory 6 disc.

i have enough for a great single din, but really want an amazing double.

 

My driver door 'woofer' speaker died, taking away the car's audible alarms/announcements. GM actually uses a component arrangement in the doors. Since the 'tweeter' was undamaged, I left it as installed. I bought a pair of Clarion SRQ-1620S component speakers. I mounted the tweeter in the door panel, drilling out the 'soft panel' with a 2" hole saw. That makes for a very loose fit on the flush-mount adapter. So, after I had it aligned nicely, I filled in the gap, behind the bezel, with Black RTV, (silicone sealant). That did a fantastic job on securing the bezels in place, (be sure to turn the bezel, so that the 'Clarion' label is at the bottom.... It makes it look great! I cut the supplied 'tweeter' cable back a bit, and mounted the roll-off capacitor to the door frame with duct tape. I paralleled the tweeter to the factory tweeter, and it all sounds KILLER! The increased high-end, from the new door-mounted tweeters, is nearly perfect. (It is perfect for my ears.... IMHO...). And, the low-end is sooooo much cleaner than the GM crappies......

I would like to add a picture, showing how natural they seem to the overall door.... But, the forum wants an URL.... Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr So, if you want a picture, email me....

 

Hi `Capt36, Welcome to the MCF & thanks for your first post & help. Since every forum has been getting hit with spammer's, you must be on for 10 days before you can have full access & be able to post pic's, etc.
Thanks for your contributions, and we look forward to your future posts & contribution to the MCF.
Also, we look forward to hearing/seeing your Monte Carlo.
EnJoy the MCF, and we hope we see more of you online.
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