i did a little more research, i would replace your battery. if the problem continues check the wire going from your alternator to your battery. but do it at night. see if on any of your electrical wires if it is arcing to anything. this can be hard cause sometimes if there is even just the slightest whole, it will arc to another part of the car very slightly. but you will be able to see it. i owned a grand am previously and i had a similar problem but one of my spark plug wires had cracked enough that there was almost a constant electrical arc between the wire and my engine. i believe that if there is a whole and it is arcing to ground, it would drain your battery. its not a common problem for a wire to arc, but it is likely.

 

There is a TSB for the battery's in the 06-97 montes. I haven't needed to replace mine but a lot of folks have had this issue. The fix is to replace it with an updated battery.
Your dealer might give you **** because all of the aftermarket electronics you got.
I'll see if I can find the TSB.
See TSB below.
Some folks that had this issue went with an aftermarket battery and it never occured again. most went with Optima Red Top.

 

Subject: No Crank / No Start Condition - Concern May Be Intermittent - keywords nostart nocrank #PIC3906A - (11/29/2006)



Models: 2006 Chevrolet Impala and Monte Carlo Built On or Before 11/30/05




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
No crank / no start condition. The concern may be intermittent.

Recommendation/Instructions:
This can be caused by a poor solder joint between the ignition main relay and the printed circuit board. The ignition main relay is not serviceable. If voltage checks identify a bad ignition main relay, it will be necessary to replace the Underhood Bussed Electrical Center (UBEC) to repair this condition.

A correction of this condition has been implemented into production as of November 30th, 2005.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.



GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

 

Doble post

 

Wow, thanks for all the replies guys.

I'll check for corrosion sometime here, I think there had been a bit on the post when we jumped it last. And one of these nights if it gets above 10 degrees I'll go check for any arcs.

When I probably end up going with a new battery what should I look for?

 

i have always done sears diehard batteries. they aren't to expensice but they have always been a very reliable, and affordable battery. but yellow top batteries are nice if you can afford them.

 

This is the typical scenario for NEEDING a Gauge instead of a Info-only Light.

Your Alternator needs to put-out more current than the system is using. A Gauge would show you if you are Charging or going into debt on the battery when everything you got is pulling amps.

The first thing to do ... after you get the Battery Jumped and the Car Running ... is test the Battery's Voltage with the Engine at around 2,000 RPM's.
You should be showing above 14 Volts at the Battery ... enough Voltage for the Car to have 12 Volts to run and some additional voltage to charge the Battery as there is a Load on the System.

Then, turn-on your various accessories and see if the Sound System makes for undercharging. If that's it ... you need a Higher Amperage Alternator.

 

I would highly doubt he needs a higher output alternator. Im running a stocker on a 3800 Series II with over 1600 Watts over 0 gauge cable, and I only get a slight dim, and I dont have any problems with the car turning over or anything. Works fine. I would put my money on a bad cell in the battery. Try an optima yellowtop. Also, check any cables near the battery for corrosion, if any cable is slightly cut or such, it will draw power from the battery if its touching another metal surface.

 

This is what I did when I had it tested a month or two ago, the guy running it told me that the alternator was running strong and that the battery was doing okay and that was with the subs hitting during, so I don't know. A yellowtop would be nice, but I might have to wait until my first paycheck this summer to get me one of those, unless I can talk my dad into buying it...

 

I have a yellow top in mine and have seen and been told it is to much for astock system.
I have had never had a issue with mine. other then the one that ended up with a bad cell.

I belive this was due to the body shop tryign to charge it all the time while they played the system in it with out the car running.

But you cna also get away with a red or even the blue top in a car with a system.
and there are others out there that are just as good but cheaper then the optima.
I think i would do a exide version the next time. they seem to be as good if not better and cheaper.