new stereo = wiring harness questions
 

GOAL: Putting aftermarket subs, amp, and head unit into 01 Monte Carlo SS. Want to be able to use steering wheel controls and be able to still do all the warning light resets etc the factory head unit had control over - and I don't care about OnStar.

QUESTION: What do I need to buy to achieve this? I've never replaced a head unit that had control over anything like resetting the message board/warning lights, and I've also never had steering wheel controls before... I drive old vehicles haha

Also I guess i'll be needing a dash mounting kit for a single din unit? and ideas what to use the extra din space for?


What I got so far:
Brothers old subs and amp, they get transfered from car to car as we go because I can't afford to buy newer ones and these do the trick. The SS will be the 3rd or 4th car they will be used in.

Attachment 28798
Attachment 28799

I bought a

*Pioneer DEH-X6500BT

*Pioneer DEH-X6500BT

* for my last car and would really like to reuse it in this one.

Reading other threads and the *

GMOS-01*

GMOS-01*

wiring harness seems to be popular. What exactly does it do? allows my aftermarket head unit to be able to do all the things the stock one could do like message center resets? and would I need something else to get my steering wheel controls back or does that handle that too?

Lot's of questions but I really hate listening to the radio! this will be the first thing I do come summer time. THANKS IT ADVANCED !

no one? : (

bummmmmmmmmmp

Ok for the steering wheel controls you will ends a PAC. I think what it is called. If you go on crutchfield.com you can enter in all your information and find out what wiring harness you need and what steering wheel control harness you need. You don't have to buy it on that site it is just to show you want you need. For the dash kit you can get that at walmart for like $10 just look for the gm one with the 2000-2005 Monte Carlo. That's the one that works for this car. Any more questions just ask and good luck

I'm not familiar with the 01, Mine is an 06 and a very complicated stereo install. When mine was new, I had to wait till they invented the modular harness.

If there are driver info display built into your factory head unit, there is an aftermarket solution to replace that. If door/key/light chimes are built into your radio, there is an aftermarket solution for that. Same with steering wheel controls.

Metra dash kit is easy to look up.
I used a Soundgate LANSTAR1 harness (now $80, I paid $180)
I installed 2 separate speakers under the dash for OnStar and chimes.
I use a PAC SWI-Alpine, And its programmable, you'll need the pioneer version.
My Installation took 3 relays, big power wire, big Caps, main fuse + distribution fuse block, plus distribution ground block.
I upgraded power wires, called the Big 3 on the audio forums.
I've upgraded a few times since 06. Added Bluetooth and HD Radio, then my last head unit swap was for iPod integration. My iPhone has replaced my CD Changers.

If you're not familiar with any of this, you could go to a good install shop and let them do it. Bring a few paychecks.
Or join the car audio forum and ask for help.

Aha Those look like a IB set up. I havent had experience with 02 models really, I did before but i cant remember. When i go home ill look

okay think im getting the following let me know if anything is wrong please, it all checks out with my HU and car so all should work I think

That all should be good for you to use.

good to hear, was only concerned about the main wiring harness, the whole non amplified thing got me a little concerned is all because I will be using an amp but yea pretty sure it still checks out - should be getting my car back soon and then i get to do the install :D just in time for summer!

A lot of cars come with factory amplified units for the speakers. It's separates the frequency range for each speaker. When you hook up the wire harness connect solid blue to the solid blue on The radio harness. You can still hook up hour remote wire to the solid blue but that will turn on the factory amplifier

Sorry I didn't read it all.

didn't want to make a new thread so i'll add to this one, got the stereo all installed and life is good, except the box is a tad too big so i'll be looking into making a new one this summer

looking for advice on which way to face the subs (from what I've read, I should face them towards the trunk which means opposite of my current set up) and also any interesting design pics anyone has for inspiration... just a plan box is meh although I may just end up going that way

Attachment 26732
Attachment 26733

I would face them towards the back of the trunk unless you want to have the back seat down all the time. It maybe a bit louder like that but I use to have it towards the cabin but never noticed a big differnce. Here is a pic of what mind looks like now.
Attachment 26731

Direction doesn't really matter as much as the type of box and cubic feet each sub has. This is why it's a big no no to build a box for 2 subs without splitting the box in half. If you don't the subs will push each other in and out, messing them up ultimately.

With that said, I've seen that subs sound the best in a ported box or a bandpass box. With a bandpass box, the "direction" is even more irrelavant, because the subs are sealed up in the box BUT they sound better with the ports pointing to the trunk. The same is true with ported boxes. The only type of box where the sub direction would make a difference is sealed, but a sealed box is the least loud type of box. The loudest is usually bandpass, but at the expense of silencing higher frequencies. Ported is good for rap music and other bass heavy genre's (like EDM and Dubstep) since ported is more about volume whereas a sealed box is more about the quality of bass. So a sealed box will have a better "thump" that you will feel but you won't hear the bass. A ported box will usually allow you to hear the bass and if a lot of air is produced, you will have a better thump at the expense of the quality of the bass. This is usually accompanied by a rattling trunk (if your subs are powerful enough to pressurize enough air that will vibrate the trunk).

I usually recommend Ported boxes, but that's because I like bass heavy music.

I would also recommend putting the subwoofers cone out instead of magnet out (how your set up is). I would also recommend 1.5 cubic feet for your subs in a ported set up unless they are very powerful subs, in which case 2.0 to 2.5 cubic feet will be good. 1.5 cubic feet will allow you to have a small box and a good pressure area. I would recommend building it long (fender to fender) and tall (floor to rear shelf area) to offset the depth of the box (this way you can have 1.5 cubic feet but have trunk space as well).