battery in the back would be 10x easier... my dads mercedes has the battery in the trunk and iknow chargers do as well. atleast last gen models do. i get jelous everytime i see that...


Those glow sticks are handy. specialy when you get the wire through the firewall. you can stick the glow stick down the engine compartment and tape the wire to it and pull it up.

 

I know what you mean with the air bags, however if you ever do wanna take them out (which I highly recommend if you're going to be running wire to the rear) it's just a simple wiring harness to unplug and (with the exception of the obvious bolt removal) you're done.

I took my seats out to PROPERLY run the wires for my LED's and it's actually pretty easy to do (I've even got pictures of the bottom of the seats as well as the car without seats in it lol)

I warn you though, if you forget to plug the harness back in, you'll get a message in your message center saying you need to "service passenger airbag". If you want those pictures, let me know and i'll try and dig em up

 

Sure, would like to see the wiring route in particular. Wires under the console or on the floor pan? All with no pinch points.

 

here is a very "general" picture of the wiring set up that i made a while back. Basically got bored at work one day and wanted something showing what kind of set-up i've got and where it all is.

Attachment 7551


--though it looks like there are very sharp bends, they aren't. . . i just didn't have a way of making it 3d and showing the wires being run vertically

--unfortunately i couldn't find a monte carlo template so i had to use one from a nissan 300z

--ALSO, I'll have to get the under seat pictures on here later . . . they're on my external hard drive at home

 

Chargers should since its basically the same car as my 300 just a different body.. kinda like the Monte and the Grand Prix

And why would the seats need to be removed to run wire there is no need.. I mean I would only remove them to deep clean under neath them.

 

I shouldn't have made it sound like you NEED to take em out, however i'm kind of a neat freak i guess, so I my power wires go straight down the passenger side of the console, and the audio wires on the driver side. Both come out in the middle of the car so if you ever need to get power to an accessory, it's right there in the middle and you don't have to mess with taking panels off to run more wire than you need too. I'd also assume it's a shorter distance than if it were to wrap around the seats, thus meaning less wire to buy.

I guess it's honestly just a feeling that it looks more professional IMO. when i was in school (and everyone i saw had some sort of sound system in their car), my biggest pet-peave was seeing a system that looked like crap -- ex. visible wires and mis-matched subs.

 

Well I always wanted to keep RCAs and Power wire as far separated as possible so I wanted to run each wire as close to doors as possible to eliminate noise etc.. guess that's why I questioned it.

 

Here are the seats. . . . keep in mind they're more pictures of the LED's but it gives you an idea . . . .

~~~~to remove~~~~

move seat as far forward as possible, take the headrests off, take the bolts out of the rear of the tracks, tilt seat up and unplug the connectors, now tilt seat as far forward as possible and lift up . . . warning--they're heavy LOL :p

"hooks" on the front support . . . .


bottom of seat . . . .


both seat bottoms


car with seats removed

 

If you don't want to run a power wire through the firewall grommet, your only other option is bringing it through the door jam and hope it doesn't get pinched, then tuck under the carpet all the way to the trunk

 

OK, it's a nice day and I got up the energy to tackle this.

When I first thought about following that wire loom through the firewall I poked at the grommet from the inside and thought it was impenetrable.

Wrong was I.



There is a thick rubber block with a hole and a split that allows it to slip off & on IN the firewall boot. Take the block out, poke a hole in the boot, feed wire in and route to battery. Put split block back on, press into place.


Comes out down there. I had to remove the coolant overflow to get my fat arm in there.


Dressed wires


I took out the passenger seat and routed the power along the tunnel. No seat lets you use the carpet cutouts as pull points.


Reseal the hole in the kick panel boot. Try to get that chunk of insulation in the fender back in place.

This has greatly reduced the alternator whine in the right speakers. From the rear seat and back the power is still following the factory harness, I could not see any alternate route that would let the wire pass without pinching.

Next step is to install a high current noise filter used in police cars - made by Motorola it's a heavy little brick. .

Jester _20 Thanks for the information about the seat electrics - I would not have gone near it without the help.