I just had Audio Express install my head unit and amp.... Got car back and right away my subs became toasted. Told them that and they basically gave me the finger and said you supplied the subs not our problem.... Although the retards suggested the amp that ate them..(500 Rockford Prime) They gave me a 534 rms amp for 2 old school red letter Rockfords.... So now buying new subs.... BUT what really bugs is im currently borrowing some subs from a friend... Started getting dimming headlights etc... Had batter and alternator checked they passed.... So was told to just buy a cap or second battery for trunk... But dont those all need to be charged by the alternator any way? So should i upgrade my 105 amp alternator to 125? Would this help..... Especially sense i have the HID upgrade with my headlights? Next issue that i have sense i got car back... With AND without the audio system being on if i turn on my rear defroster i have voltage drop.... gauge goes half way down.... Next if i hold both passenger and driver window switches down it does it too..... Mostly if there all the way down or up and i push it (Pushing down when already down...) This all happens of coures at IDLE or close to it... when my alternator is working its lowest.... So what should i do? Please Please help

 

Another battery or cap isn't going to solve your voltage drops. Check all of your terminals under the hood, especially the battery terminals and the positive terminals on the fuse box and alternator. Make sure they're all tight and corrosion free. Even a little corrosion can make a huge difference. I'm assuming you didn't have these power issues before the install?

Edit: Also, find a new audio shop.

 

X2 with checking all connections. Also, find all ground wires and make sure they are tight and metal 2 metal. Check the "Big 3 upgrade" thread since you seem to be a good candidate for it. Then again, what do I know!

 

This all happened after which is why i thought adding the system just put more strain on the alternator (battery 3 months old) so naturally i tested that and it passed. So then i turned the deck on and on deep bass notes it moves.... So to fix that what do i do? As far as it dropping and moving when system isnt on i think its got to be shorts of some sort but i will check the grounding connections and power connections again in the morning... Is it possible anything under the dash? Like from when they removed it to do my head unit? Thanks!! *Goes to check the BIG 3 Thread*

 

I doubt it's anything shorting out. It probably would have blown a fuse by now if there was a short. The deal with your windows, every car does that. Don't hold the down button if they're already down, that's not good for it lol. But you should be able to run the defroster just fine.

Your charging system can pass a test sure, but that doesn't mean it can keep up with the new system, at least at idle. I believe the stock alternator puts out around 20 amps at idle, which doesn't go far for an aftermarket stereo. In all reality though, you have a 500 watt amp, and that's not nearly enough power to warrant an alternator upgrade IMO. Your battery should be fine, all it needs to do is start the car. The big 3 is always a good upgrade though.

 

ususally quality subs can take more than the rated RMS wattage. what kills them is not enough. not sure if you did your homework b4 you put your system together but your installer should have double checked.

1. find a new installer
2. a battery can be a week old and covered in corosion, which reduces contact.
3. all the power options you stated above use energy. check your fuses on how much. try not to use all of them at once.
4. an alternator would help out a lot. expecially if you had no problems b4 the last upgrade. your pushing the limit.
5. i am running 2000 watts amp, halos, and use any accessory that i choose with a 125 amp alternator and a 1600 peak amp 2nd battery. so 125 amp isnt the best alternator[they go to 200] but should be more than enough for most applications.


do step 1 first and they should be able to solve any power issues that your having. GL

 

ive heard a lot of ppl with a 102 amp alternator that have problems.
true 500 isnt enough to overload your electrical system.

he is right at idle your alternator doesnt provide the juice it does at 1200 plus RPM's. an extra battery or cap would only help for parking lot pimping. and might add more strain to your issue.

i would have a pro check it out and upgrade your wiring. you should be at least running a 4 gauge wire.

 

Just wanted to throw a little correction on this. Too little power will never hurt a sub, or any speaker for that matter. What does hurt them is clipping, which tends to happen more often on low powered systems where people think the gain **** is a volume **** and try to get more of their system than it can provide. Running a clean 100 watts to a 300 watt sub won't hurt a thing.

 

thank you for saying this, thats something my friends dont understand haha!!!

 

Lol 99 Percent of people with systems dont understand.

ok iv totaled 16 batterys in the learning process and the being 17 in high school process. going by every single thing you said.... your batterys toasted.

Heres the list of things you need to do.
1. Tell us your exact subs and amplifier your using along with what guage wire and deck.
2. Go to a local battery shop and have them run a free check on your battery and not your alternator. if your batterys toasted which im pretty confident it is get a new one and try and get a bit more heavy duty one.
3. adjust your gains........ CORRECTLY dont let the car audio shop do it, dont do any sort of guess work, dont adjust it until its "banging", Use the Digital Multimeter method. if you do this correctly your subs and amp will never break from just listening to it.
4. Big 3 upgrade with 4 guage wire at the minimum. go 2 or 1/0 if you ever plan on upgrading

Those are all MUSTS. no if and or buts. they all have to be done.

If you do all of the above things and your still having problems sell your monte carlo and go buy a neon with a fart can