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charging system

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  #21  
Old 05-27-2011, 01:39 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 119
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Originally Posted by bbengineer
I've been doing car audio for over 20 years (a good number of those professionally) and a bigger battery doesn't solve dimming... period.

A battery with lower ESR might help as it's not taxing the alternator as much allowing more power to be supplied to other accessories, but that isn't a result of the power a battery is able to supply..

As I have said many times already, you are not drawing ANY current from the battery until your alternator is maxed out and it's voltage drops to that of the battery.

And just because you swap in a 'bigger' battery and it 'works', doesn't make it science... because you would have to swap in a 'bigger' battery while keeping everything else constant (ESR, slew, reserve, etc)

BBEngineer

I see the knowledge of reading, but what you are saying and what has been done isnt flowing together.

First off the system in facts pulls juice from the batteries, which pull juice from the alts. Seriously you'd need how many alts to run a system IF the alt is actually doing ALL the work? What would you need batteries for?

Thats what it seems you're implying which isnt right.
 
  #22  
Old 05-27-2011, 01:40 PM
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 170
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Originally Posted by dezzyboi16
"the math and physics say other wise" common man it's pretty simple. Big 3 will allow more juice to flow to the components since the stock wiring is restrictive. 0 guage wire. Get yourself a battery with more storage and power capacity and you'll see a very noticeable change in your electrical WITH THE STOCK ALT.
Once again... you draw NO power off the battery with the car running until the alternator is maxed out... and at that point it's too late... your voltage has sagged to that of the battery

The Big 3 is a must, but a bigger battery does nothing for you

JL amps are power hogs, they're efficiency isnt the best among other class D amps which the 500/1's are but with that power he's not sucking alot of juice at all.
The amp the OP posted isn't a Class-D at all... so it's efficiency is low... (but SQ is much better)


BBEngineer
 
  #23  
Old 05-27-2011, 01:43 PM
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 170
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Originally Posted by dezzyboi16
First off the system in facts pulls juice from the batteries, which pull juice from the alts. Seriously you'd need how many alts to run a system IF the alt is actually doing ALL the work? What would you need batteries for?

Thats what it seems you're implying which isnt right.
And there is the problem... you don't understand how a cars charging system works...

Look here and maybe you'll understand
Charging System Basics

As long as the engine is running, all of the power for the accessories is delivered by the alternator. The battery is actually a load on the charging system. The only time that the battery would supply power with the engine running is when the current capacity of the alternator is exceeded or when engine is at a very low idle.

And the only thing you need batteries for (technically) is to start the car and run accessories when the car itself isn't running


BBEngineer
 
  #24  
Old 05-27-2011, 01:48 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 119
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My bad, thought he he the v2 500.1 ! I'll give you that!

Everything else, seriously. It's been DONE ad proven many times. I cant word wrestle with you.

Good luck OP!
 
  #25  
Old 05-27-2011, 02:04 PM
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 170
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Originally Posted by dezzyboi16
Everything else, seriously. It's been DONE ad proven many times. I cant word wrestle with you.
Typical... you come in, make a completely incorrect claim, and then when asked to back it up... you don't want to 'word wrestle'

Let me ask you this... since you are sure the car runs off the batteries and the alternator only charges the batteries... Why will a car with a completely drained battery start and continue to run when jump started (or better yet, a manual is push started)??? Since the battery is completely drained, how can it provide ANY power to the car?

BBEngineer
 
  #26  
Old 05-27-2011, 02:26 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 119
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Originally Posted by bbengineer
Typical... you come in, make a completely incorrect claim, and then when asked to back it up... you don't want to 'word wrestle'

Let me ask you this... since you are sure the car runs off the batteries and the alternator only charges the batteries... Why will a car with a completely drained battery start and continue to run when jump started (or better yet, a manual is push started)??? Since the battery is completely drained, how can it provide ANY power to the car?

BBEngineer
The car uses the alternator also, its what 40-60% of the alt actually.

Now show me a fully electrical car that runs only on an alt no battery?

Better yet dont bother, let the OP tell us what happens when he installs the new battery he gets. Do the big 3 also!

I mean since everyone who has a system with NO H/O alt, just big 3 and battery is wrong...
 

Last edited by dezzyboi16; 05-27-2011 at 02:30 PM.
  #27  
Old 05-27-2011, 02:57 PM
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 170
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Originally Posted by dezzyboi16
The car uses the alternator also, its what 40-60% of the alt actually.
Can you please site a reference for this? (Note: Once again, this violates the laws of physics)

Now show me a fully electrical car that runs only on an alt no battery?
Electric cars work differently... the drive motors run off a high voltage battery back, but the accessories work like any other car, off a 12V regulated alternator (when running) and a 12V battery (when not running). There are other factors such as regenerative braking and the dual-purpose starter/alternator to help charge the battery pack

Better yet dont bother, let the OP tell us what happens when he installs the new battery he gets. Do the big 3 also!

I mean since everyone who has a system with NO H/O alt, just big 3 and battery is wrong...
It may or may not work, but if it works, it won't be because of a bigger battery... it will be because of the Big 3 allowing more current flow and the lower ESR of a specialty battery putting less stress on the alternator. And it will only work if he is on the edge. Since his amp consumes about half the power the alternator can produce, it will be close.. especially at night

BBEngineer
 
  #28  
Old 05-27-2011, 03:46 PM
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 119
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Listen, it's been done. Since you cant show what I asked but can "word wrestle" further more as I said in my FIRST post about you wanting to be TECHNICAL (called me out...right?) I'm willing to bet you $100 via paypal, you willing? That's how sure I am but now you're saying this may or may not because of this... OK! Pm me for my paypal address if you're sure enough and let the OP tell us his results after the install.

Seriously, I wont argue with you anymore.

You win! Technically Lol

"Site reference" is where you're coming from. I'm coming from actually doing this.

With this being my last post to you, here's a few "references" for you, I mean if they're good enough for your superior knowledge...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xR...feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv66sP9EXvQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5MP5F-uJAw

For others who are reading, if you're having the dimming issue try the big 3 first, it's the least expensive and best start before you spend your hard earned money where it MAY not be needed. Yes a big alt is good to have if you plan to run big power. But for a smaller system like this, it's not needed. Also to learn more about car audio, join a few forums for REAL advice, knowledge showing you with vids and pics on how this or that can help and work.

Pm me for sites I recommend.
 

Last edited by dezzyboi16; 05-27-2011 at 03:54 PM.
  #29  
Old 05-27-2011, 04:08 PM
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 170
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Your videos prove my point exactly... and you have obviously missed my point.. yet again

I said you should do the Big 3, absolutely, but I also said installing a 'bigger' battery will not help... Installing a better battery (with lower ESR) may help as it will reduce the load on the alternator making more available for accessories

But you are 100% wrong when it comes to the car running off the battery and even more wrong when you say it's a 40/60 split...

Bet you... sure ... I bet if you put in a bigger battery (with the same ESR as the current) that you will get no benefit from it as far as dimming

I am not looking to argue, I am simply trying to correct the gross misinformation that is consistently posted when it comes to a car's electrical system...

BBEngineer
 
  #30  
Old 05-29-2011, 11:55 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 147
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Well, after putting in a v max charge tank battery, I have solved my dimming problem. My lights are way better and I can definitely tell that I have more power. They do dim ever so slightly, and you could hardly tell, but I think that is because of the stock wiring.
 


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