Does anyone make an aftermarket head unit which has the control functions (light delay, door lock controls etc) which the factory unit has?

Does anyone know if the factory amp under the back deck can be replaced with an aftermarket one which has more kick to it while using the factory head unit?

 

I'm gonna take a stab at this and say the head unit doesn't control those functions, the circuits are just tied into it. That being said, I'm sure there is a harness that can be had to keep these functions. But that's just an educated guess, don't quote me on it.

I do know 100% though, that the factory amp can be replaced with an aftermarket unit and be used with your stock head unit. You would have to buy a high to low converter to accomplish this, unless your amp has high level inputs, which most of the better amps don't have. I will be keeping my stock head unit and running an aftermarket amp using the high to low converter which taps into your speaker leads and turns them into rca's so you can connect the amp to the head unit. Although there are many reasons to upgrade to an aftermarket head unit, I am going this route to try to thwart any possible thoughts of breaking into my car to jack my system. My Accord got broken into and my system jacked and the face wasn't even on the stereo!! But they seen the tweets, seen the detachable face and probably figured I had something in there. They hit the jackpot, that's for sure!

 

you can buy a harness that will allow you to mve the unit to the trunk of your car threw svral places. Also you can retian your steering wheel controlls by getting the adaptor for it they hook in to the harness and wok with your after market stereo and the steering whell to allow you to controll it all on your wheel.

the stock head unit has the oil minder in it and the tire defaltor in it but they are not in the radio jus tthe way the computer allows you to reset al of it. You can keep the stock unit in the trunk and it will be pluged in but not playing anything and then you can get to it to do the funtions you need to when the time comes.

Also the amp can be replaced but you will have to find a adaptor for it to keep the stock harness think i saw one on line due a serch might tun somthing up on that. Or just by pass the whole thing and make your own up.

Good luck

 

Wow, another reason to keep the stock head unit.....I wasn't gonna change it out anyway, too skurred thieves might break in!

 

what im going to do when i get my head unit is just program it how i want it and then i heard but im not sure that it will just keep those settings until u put the stock hu back in and you can change them again

 

the wireing harness im alking about will allow both of them tohave power at all times.
this will keep the setting etc, in the stock H/U the same as if it was in the dash but it willbe phisically locatedin the trunk

then just put your new one in the dash with a kit (or make your own mounts)
then if you want the steering wheel controlls you will need the inter face for that. but other thenthat it is about it. hel im looking at doing it here shortly so i can get rid of this one that seems to like to spit C.D's at me

they wont change it out here at all as they would have to order it so it is not goign to be done,
go figure

 

You're accepting that? Isn't your car under warranty? I'd elevate that past the dealership if I were you cause that's just wrong.

 

oh belive me i have tried and i agree. i found out that after i got here that chevy really dont give a crap about us after we buy the car. and if you ship it out of thier warentied area you get what ever your lucky enough o get.

I have taken this all the way to the desk of the main VIP here in Germany and thanks to a frend i made that works in GM Europe they got me in to the dealer ship to get what i could done ,

I still havent gotten the damed pax seat fixed it no longer slides forrward when you use the release to allow bigger then 2 foot tall passengers to get back in the back seat.

right now im dealing with the stereo, the seat,the dash lights, the car has minor things wrng with it but for a two year old car they should not be having all of this wrong i wouldnt think.

O/h and the fun one is i have 5 reacurring codes that they swear are not in my computer and that the reader i have must be wrong. they swear they are not there. but i keep getting body codes on my computer.yesterday while driving it the high beam out light came on so i got out to check it and they are both fine and brights as hell. but accourding to them i have nothing wrong with the car.

 

Thank you for the information on the head uit. I have seen radio relocation kits so you can retain factory function through Etronics.
I have GM factory manual which states head unit is programmed with VIN through GM scanner tool so you can not remove and put in another car without tool to reduce possibility of theft. Tool used on E-bay is about $2K.
Manual does not have a good schematic on wiring which is reason I do not know how to rewire AMP for aftermarket unit.

 

You won't need a schematic to wire up an amp, it's simple simon. What im gonna tell you is an ancient chinese secret, so don't tell anyone aight?

What you do is go to a stereo shop and get your hands on a Metra stereo harness for your car. On the back of it is the only schematic you will need, either write all the info down, or snap a pic of it w/your digi or camera phone. It's that easy. The rest is plug and play. Have fun! And remember, keep it on the DL

The only difference is that you aren't gonna use the factory ground or 12v supply. You want your amp to be grounded with the same guage wire as your power lead, within 1ft of the amp. And make sure it's to bare metal. And for your power lead, you are gonna have to run a cable from the battery, with an inline fuse within 16" of the battery(preferrably within a foot), through the firewall and back to your amp. How do you know what size fuse to use? Use a fuse that is the sum of the amps fuse(s). And make sure you use either an AGU fuse or an ANL fuse. The ANL fuses are used mostly in high amperage systems, so if you only need a 40a fuse, an AGU fuse will do just fine.

Good luck and post up some pics when you get that install done!