You can physically pull/push the engine around with the dogbones unhooked (if your car is really new, or you don't have much strength use something to pry it forward as said above, or do the ebrake thing)- so just undo them, pull the engine forward with your hand- and wedge something between the alternatorand the firewall (like a piece of woodor something).

You guys are making this sound ridiculously difficult forasimple plug swap- there is no reason you shouldn't be able to change all 6 in the time it takes to do an oil change, or a tire rotation- or any other basic maintenance.

You can buy a jack and jackstands for like $20 at pepboys- just make sure you actually use the jackstands.

What do you mean how fragile the O2 plug is? Buy an actual O2 sensor socket (when you go to pepboys/napa/autozone etc), and it will come right off just like all the other exhaust bolts.

Changing the downpipe is cake- if its non-catted, you just unplug the O2 electrical connector and leave it in- its just 4 bolts. If it has a cat, its just 5 more minutes swapping the O2. Just don't touch the actual element with your fingers, thats all.

 

sweet, im gonna go ahead and try that. i actually had a friend/mechanic help me out today with the downpipe before he had to go to work. what im thinking is that i might just buy the ceramic coated crossover from zzp to match my front powerlog, and install them at the same time to keep things simple.

bumpin 96, would i be able to unhook the dogbones and use a piece of wood or something to push the engine back to get to the powerlog and change it? i noticed its pretty tight quarters up there too, but i dont wanna push something i shouldnt be pushing and screw something up.

im probably going to do the plug and wire swap thursday, and maybe try the powerlog. anything special i need to know about the powerlog install? i got the gaskets and everything, i dont need to put anything on the gaskets right?

 

$/hp its not a very worthwhile mod IMO. The powerlog fixes issues with ehxaust flow up front, but with the coated crossover you're talking minimally quicker exhaust velocity, and very slightly lower temps below the TB. It definitely won't hurt, but if you start getting that much money into it (PLOG, DP, coated crossover)- you're getting real close to the price of headers.

You can push the engine back, and just lodge the wood between the dogbone mount and the upper rad support, but its really unnecessary- there is more than enough room up there.

 

So i havent actually found the amount of time to replace the powerlog, but i took a look again today after reading the last post above and i do actually have enough room to pull them out pretty easily. I have 2 questions though:

1. Are there any bolts on the bottom side of the exhaust manifold that i cant see. I think i remember seeing 4. just want to make sure there isnt a few that i cant see before i go digging into it. another problem that i could see is how to get the exhaust manifold out and the new one in. it looked like the left side of the manifold might get caught up on the plug shields because of how close the fan came to it. not enough room to slide the pipe through. the right side was fine. Also, how exactly does the manifold connect to the crossover? looked to me like there was a cover that has 2 bolts in it that tighten to eliminate the gap between the Xover and the manifold? is that right? Also, is there gonna be a clearance issue because i got the ceramic coated manifold? i know that has to add some dimensions vs. the stock manifold due to its thickness.

other than that it looks pretty straight forward.

 

There are more than 4- IIRC there are 2 per primary, so 6 total (look at your powerlog and where the bolt holes are- thats easy enough)...

There will be plenty of room to get it out- don't worry about that at all. Absolute worst case is you have to pull a dogbone, but there is more than enough room to get it out.



2 bolts, thats it. They break easily, so be careful- soak them a lot with PB Blaster ahead of time, and you shouldn't have any problem.


You just leave the stock heatshield off, thats the only difference.

 

So i started to rip into the exhaust manifold. unhooked the dog bones, made it easier to get to the engine. did the rocking back and forth and set the E-brake, much simplier. the only problem is, i had the right wrenches for everything, but didnt have a socket to take off the engine hook that is connected to one of the manifold bolts. the hook made it impossible for a wrench to get, and i didnt have the right socket for it. luckily, that was going to be my first bolt so i didnt undo all the others. that would have made me sooo angry if i did haha. the manifold swap should only take me about 30 minutes now that i can see what im doing. probably go to sears and get a socket set tomorrow, hopefully find one on sale!

on another note, while i was in there i noticed my drivers side fan metal fan shroud was loose, i think it might have been the thing that was driving me insane from knocking back and forth! Ahhh.....relief.

 

You need the right tools for taking care of your own ride.
Don't skimp on getting what you need.
You're better-off having the right tool than trying to struggle with something that don't cut it.

> TREAT YOURSELF to the Craftsman 3-Pack of "Wobble-Extensions" ... When the reach is slightly off ... you can load-up a Wobble-Extension ... and get on a fastener if something is in the way. I love them!

 

ya i've done some research already. found 2 sets at lowes im gonna go look at. heres a link for them:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...amp;lpage=none

OR

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...amp;lpage=none

I think im leaning towards the first one just because of the hex keys. I know its great to have a complete set of every socket, but the top one has what i need + the hex keys. what do you think?

 

Don't waste you money on Lowes. Get yourself some CRAFTSMAN Tools from Sears. Craftsman Tools are what you'll find if you look in a Pro's Box who want to take home some money instead of paying-off the SnapOn Man.
Break one ... even if you abuse it ... bring it back for a free replacement. Just like that.
Dollar wise ... when you can catch a sale like this ... you are WAY ahead of what you get elsewhere.

Go to this page ... PRINT-OFF the offer. Bring the offer to the Store and get the Web Price ... right now. Even if you don't bother sending in the Cupon for the rebate ... you'll have a sh1tload of tools for short money ... read the inventory of what you get!

GO BUY THIS SET RIGHT NOW!
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...00100362&aff=Y

 

[:'(]barf @ lowes socket set. I do like snap on tools, but for an average home tinkerer, craftsman tools are great too. You really do need to invest in tools with a lifetime warranty, and a good history/reputation.