hello im new to the site and have a few Q's about the work im getting ready to do to my Monte
1.exhaust work(Stainless steel Ceramic coated headers Then im gonna put a reducer into a true Y pipe which is supposed to be duel inlet single outlet but im gonna turn it around single into duel then insted of a cat im gonna put a True X from Magnaflow and then run it too the back into Flow 40's)
2.im gonna put a K&N Intake Kit

Does anybody have any other suggestions or forsee any prob?

 

Well, just from learning what Dan (04Intimidator) has to say on the subject, headers on a N/A car is near pointless until you get up around 280-200 HP. This is because the N/A does not create enough torque and this will cause engine power loss across the power band. I would start with an air intake, do the exhaust, do the U-bend delete, and hold off on the headers until you get ported and polished heads, along with perhaps a new cam. The heads and cam would allow you to run those new headers, without worrying about power loss, not to mention giving your entire car an awesome sound.

-Keegan

 

that is completely incorrect!
headers are very important on NA cars. Headers will significatly increase TQ as long as you dont open up the rest of your exhaust system too much.

04inti is refering to SC cars. when you have a SC you really dont need headers until you get up in the HP numbers because the SC increases your volumetric efficency. on an NA engine we need every little bit of help we can get.

the best order to do mods for NA cars are as follows:
-cold air intake (FWI)
-mufflers and ubend delete if it exists on your car. (no larger then 2.5" dia)
-Throtle body upgrade
-rockers
-headerss or cam
-ported heads

after a few of these mods you will start to see a need for a tuner. even on a stock motor there is power to be gained by having a tuner, but the more mods you add the more you will benifit from a good tune.

 

great info here. cool
i have 3400 too

 

Here's a really good write up on Headers. http://www.wbodystore.com/grandprix/...or-me-a-7.html


With all of the headers available on the market today what's the right setup for you? Exhaust system components should be chosen with care as they can make or break your track times. Read on for the skinny on the various brands of headers and what's best for you. As these cars continue to find their place in a large aftermarket world more and more options begin to open up. While three years ago there were generally only two brands of headers considered acceptable we now have more selection: more brands, more sizes, more confusion.

There are several variables to consider when buying a header kit. Some are obvious such as name brand, quality, warranty and others not so obvious. What primary size is right for my setup? What collector size is right for my setup? Is one "kit" more complete than another? We hope to take the confusion out of your header purchase with this article. Grab a bag of popcorn and sit in your favorite E-Z chair while we educate you on the various header setups available for your 3800 powered vehicle.

Primary Size

What primary size is right for me? What is a "primary"? A primary, or primary pipe, is the exhaust pipe coming off one cylinder. The primaries all connect at the "collector" of the header. Primary size is often approached with a "bigger is better" attitude. Logically this makes sense but when considering the logistics of an engine we must quickly throw this theory out the window.

For instance, two identical vehicles running the same headers with different primary sizes can run very different times. Let's say our vehicle is lightly modified. Vehicle A runs a 13.5 with a set of TOGs headers while vehicle B runs a 13.9 with a set of Pace Setter headers. Why did vehicle A run a faster time when Vehicle B had the larger primary headers? Quite simply, vehicle B lacked the amount of modifications to overcome the low end torque loss of the larger primary header.

A rule of thumb is that the larger the primaries the higher the peak horsepower and the more the low end torque loss. Smaller primaries offer a lower peak horsepower number while retaining more of that low end torque. So what's right for you? We're glad you asked.

Collector size

Much like primary size, a smaller collector (where the headers combine and connect to the remainder of the exhaust) helps retain low end torque at the cost of high end horsepower. A larger collector will have the opposite affect allowing for a higher peak horsepower number with the sacrifice being low end grunt.
Coatings

There are various coatings you can obtain on the various brands of headers. TOGs come standard with a nickel plating while the SLPs come standard with ceramic coating. The S&S and Pace Setter headers come uncoated and can be ceramic coated for $150 and $100 respectively. Ceramic coating provides a long lasting finish as well as a thermal barrier which allows the headers to better retain the heat both keeping your engine compartment cooler while increasing exhaust gas velocity.
Kit Contents

This is where it get's really confusing and where that really expensive set of headers starts to get more expensive. Choosing a kit based on it's contents as well as it's fit for your specific application is key. Some kits include a shorty weld-in downpipe while others bolt up with no welding while still others don't include a downpipe at all. Our "True Price" and "Kit Contents" columns give you a better idea of what you'll be paying from purchase through installation.
Ok, you've gotten here and you know a little more about headers but you still don't know what to buy? Keep reading for a list of each brand of headers as well as their specs and a break-down of what their kit entails.
[IMG]h

 

So in a nutshell on an NA car you want to get the smaller primary's. So it really boils down on the above chart to S&S and SLP. From personal experiance I will NEVER recommend SLP. Check out my Headers article in the Do-It-Yourself section for that fuggin story.

I'd go with the S&S headers.

 

Phew, lotta info. Great writeup! Thanks Dan!..

P.S. Howre u comin on the sound clip? lol

-Keegan

 

yeah good info. larger collectors do hurt tq but if you size the rest of the exhaust system correctly you can somewhat counter some issues with a larger collector. but yeah if you can get a smaller one that makes thigns easyer. its just the stock manifolds arent all that good for flow and any improvement is a must for real moding

 

Actually it isn't my write up. I got it off Wbodystore.com - credit where credit is due.

As for the sound clip I honestly haven't touched it. I've been getting up around 10 am to goto work, back at 9pm and I just don't have the energy to drag out the equipment. Going to Indianapolis this weekend so I might be able to make a point to do it then to kill some time... either that or just get it on my cell and mail it that way.

 

alright well thinks for all the help im very glad to hear all this info it was a great help