I was wondering the same thing. It appears to be the LIM from a 3800 and then I have no clue about the upper part. Looks almost cobbled together to be honest. Nothin against the guy working on that but that's a much sharper turn than I would like to see in the induction system. That and the "outer" runners are out of the direct flow path of the air and I just can't see this being as efficient in distributing air to all cylinders as the stock intake. The 1, 2, 5, and 6 cylinders I think will be pig rich with that setup and if you try to fix that then it'll make 3 and 4 too lean.

Its from the Holden Commodore Ecotec. The runners are great on it, and it is going to be a turbo set up anyway, so when its pressurized there wont be an issue of anything being lean, even amounts of air will get to all cylinders. The same could be said for the l36 Upper Intake.

@Z34phoenix - That I believe is a intake from a Holden 3800 (in Australia). The same 3800 we enjoy in North America is in a bunch of Holden cars with a slightly different UIM/LIM. I've seen a couple of Turbo builds on the Net using them (not many).

@Enzo354 - Cool pics!! I hope it all works out once it's together and tuned!!

@SupplySgt - I'm pretty certain I've seen pics of an L67 in an F-body, but the air intake requires some goofing around to get the air to it. I would think putting a turbo on the original RWD L36 would be better.

Maniac, I'm planning one of each project. There are a few people I know in Australia who may be able to give me a hookup on the boot that goes on the end of the blower in the RWD Commodores to put the MAF facing the "correct" way relative to the car. Throwing around the idea of using a 4th gen Monte for the L67 and using the "Supercharged SS" badges off the 04-05 Montes. Either a G-body GP or a 2nd gen for the turbo build. I'll just have to find the cars to put the motor in. I wish I had one handy I could use for measurements and everything.

MAF isn't the problem the front of the blower case will hit the firewall. I saw someone with a firebird that cut the front of the m90 on an angle and made a 120* bend and a plate to mount a new tb.

Meant throttle body. The Holden Commodores had the L67 in RWD form and had a boot that brought it around to the TB. Also, on the 4th gen f-bodies, the motor is mounted really far back in relation to the firewall.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...Red_VX_Eng.jpg

This is the benefit of having friends in Australia who can source parts for you. That right there is the engine bay of the Commodore.

The HV3 does not really give you the claims that you are reading. It gives you BACK horsepower that is lost in the upper RPM band where these motors suck. So that is why you need to couple it with more mods that also help the upper band. I have one and I love it, put it in with a front powerlog, er rockers, hvtb, and did a tune.

I have heard about removing the runners, but I feel like that would just create a slight turbulance of bouncing air, where the hv3 helps bounce it in a specific way.

Now speaking about the fbody, it is a completely different beast. A lot of differences in those engines. In the end, though, both l36 engines have some really crappy flow.

And to make that blower work, you need to bamg the firewall a little, get a new k-member, or get yours lowered to clear for the blower, and you have to custom make a tb loop, because the Holden one won't work :(

I should have established right off the bat that I have no plans to do this in a 4th gen f-body. It's going to be a modern retrofit into an older car. Something different. And like I said, I have access to plenty of Holden parts (including the blower if need be) so it won't be as hard as it would be for someone without those connections.

just wanted to add more info for future people reading this. i got my hands on an HV3 for cheap... so considered giving it a try until i install my topswap kit. my existing mods before the install: FWI, Speed Daddy Headers, no Cat, 2.5" high flow exhaust.

I think my L36 has the stock upper intake manifold, but the HV3 was so far off from fitting it was pathetic. i needed my dremal and a few diff cutters to slice it to fit. if i paid $200 + shipping for this i would be furious! ZZP says little to no loss on the low end... this is not true. low end power did take a noticable hit. it did creat a noticable improvement in top end pull. before the insert, the l36 lost steam around 5200-5400rpm and i tuned my pcm to shift at or before the stock shift points. after the insert i am shifting 500-600 rpm higher without the feeling of loosing steam. (it still is a far cry from my DOHC that would pull harder and stronger the higher you took it. it kept building power all the way thru 7000rpm. had it to 7150 at the drag strip once) this insert does give more top end power, but it is only felt above 5000rpm which is not where you spend most of your time driving... it does how ever make the power band smoother. you do loose the low end but the power band feels more natural.

after looking how this insert fits, it all depends on the end customers ability to cut and fit it correctly. seeing how poor the fit is one could cut it wrong and have the ports blocked partially and restrict flow.

in the end i feel the best thing one can do is to port the lower intake manifold. i wont be trying this unfortunetly as if i pull the LIM i will be installing my SC. But remove the stock runners in the intake manifold and take the LIM and round the edges leading into each runner. this will create smoother air flow entering them. port match the exit of the runners and i think that will give much more top end then the HV3. granted you will prob need to raise the shift points to take advantage of this new power... but then again you need higher shift points to take advantage of the HV3 anyway.

bottom line as for value (HP vs Cost) Empty upper intake > Hv3

Mine fit PERFECTLY without any modifications. You might have got a different design, or one for a series 3??