Did you read the thread?... the plastic is temp fix.. it dosnt solve the real problem.

The aluminum L26 intake solves the problem.

 

But getting the (other then green color) Dex-Cool out will help?

 

I run dex-cool with distilled water and i have had 0 problems. My car is low miles, so if that makes a difference... could be.

After reading the thread i posted, i'm not going to put make-up on a pig and fix the intake with another plastic peice. Some cars are going high mileage and having no issues.

I will install the L26 aluminum intake and maybe get the zzp hi-flow TB for it.

 

how much money is the aluminum one??

i've not had a single issue with any of the plastic one's i've sold, they have no issues, so why complain about it unless your going for more performance..thats the only thing

as for dex cool, dex cool is red, regular antifreeze is green, universal is usually a greenish yellow color (which some people still call dexcool because it will work with it) BUT dex cool is red

if your going to switch to regular green then you need to get every last drop of red out of the system with a flush, if your going with universal, then you dont really have to worry about it

 

Anyone know if standard radiator flush will remove Dex-Cool?

I also thought I'd visit a radiator shop and see what kind of monies they charged for a system flush?

 

i think you need to go to a specialty rad shop to have that change done, because if there's any red left in the system @ all it will go like jello, and clog everything up, i know there's a rad shop in my town that does them all the time, so i would imagine there's rad shops in every town that do them

 

The new plastic manifolds will be alright, but the problem that people have with the stock plastic manifolds is that they break down over time, so after years of repeatedly being heated and cooled they get brittle. I don't imagine that the replacement plastic UIM's completely fix the problem of the manifold getting brittle over time, but some of the aftermarket ones are more reinforced than the stock version so that should help a bit.

I don't imagine that the aluminum one is much more than a new stock plastic one. The aluminum is the updated design that came on the Series III engines.

From what I understand, one of the issues with Dexcool is that if it comes into contact with air for awhile (and in contact with air under pressure) it turns to that nasty sludge like you see under the radiator cap.

I am planning on doing the standard prestone flush and then using the yellow prestone universal coolant in the next few weeks to clear the system of dexcool.
Seems like a better idea than switching from Dexcool to the green stuff and risking issues.

Edit: Oh, and RJ - there is a Strauss auto right next to where I go to school, and when I called them they said it was $75 for a radiator flush. I figured that's not too much more than buying a couple of gallons of antifreeze so I was going to drop it off while I was in class and avoid making a mess myself.
When the guy wrote up the service bill, it came to about $210. The $75 was just the charge for the flush. Didn't include anything else and all of the materials and other fees made the flush ridiculously expensive (IMO).
I don't know if that is how every shop charges for a coolant flush, but I said "No thanks" and walked out.
For the $160 or so difference of the price of coolant and the flush kit, I'll gladly do it myself.
At least I will know it's done right also.

-Riggs.

 

For $200 I would try and do the flush myself.

I was referring to the flush you can buy at say Walmart or a NAPA store when I was asking about doing one myself. I'm not sure "How" good a job this stuff will do versus a raduator shop?

And as far as having a radiator shop do a flush on the car is to actually drive there and ask? See what they charge then decide from there.

At $200 or not, I can't see a dealer charging much more then that? But you never know, right?

 

i think that dorman intake is only like $100 american probably...

 

The Prestone radiator flush is just a salt of a weak acid that will help to put any rust and sludge and scaling into suspension to help clear it out when you flush everything with water. The water that you pump through it is what really clears out the radiator since all of the chemicals in antifreeze/coolant are water soluble.

I don't imagine that the dealership uses anything vastly different than the prestone flush and water, but I'm sure that one of the guys that works at a dealership could chime in on that for us.

A radiator flush is pretty easy to do, the only reason I was going to have it done at a shop was because I was being lazy and didn't want to have to deal with the old coolant. Plus it was really cold outside.
-Riggs.