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-   -   Repair Guide: List of Common Monte Carlo Problems and Solutions (https://montecarloforum.com/forum/fwd-tech-guides-95-07-62/list-common-monte-carlo-problems-solutions-30154/)

ChibiBlackSheep 08-09-2011 08:25 AM

List of Common Monte Carlo Problems and Solutions
 
:congrats: This is a replica of a thread that Moderator IffyG wrote on NAIOA. I thought it was a great idea and decided to copy him. He is awesome and this is a great guide to check. :congrats:

What are common problems to check for before buying a Monte Carlo? How about things to keep an eye on after you have already bought one? Here is a handy list of problems, how to fix them and photos of what to look for if applicable. This list was generated from problems I have experienced over 8 years with my 2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo that have also been experienced by more than a handful of other members over the years. If you feel I have missed something please let me know and I can update this post.

This list isn’t designed to scare people off, rather it is to make you aware of the common issues found in these vehicles. As said by another member of the forum when I went off on one of these lists before “not all cars will see every issue on the list, but … everybody will probably have one or two. Unlucky people might rack them all up.”

Problem: My climate control only works on settings some settings.
Likely cause: Bad blower motor resistor (2000-2003 Impala and Monte Carlo)
Solution: Replace the blower motor resistor. http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?...wtopic&t=40232
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: I have coolant running down the passenger side of my engine (L36)
Likely cause: Broken coolant elbows
Solution: http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?...wtopic&t=17376
Prevention: replace the elbows anytime you take them off, as they frequently break

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Problem: My headlights don’t work or my high beams won’t stay on
Like cause: Bad multifunction switch (MFS)
Temporary solution: Jiggle the MFS and you should be able to get the lights to work again. I stress that this is a temporary solution and should only be used to get the lights back on to drive somewhere to get it fixed.
Permanent solution: Replace the MFS (I advise against junkyard replacements for this repair).
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: Oil looks like a milkshake or mysterious oil or coolant loss
http://s1.hubimg.com/u/1079576_f520.jpg
Likely problem: Lower intake manifold gaskets (LIM) leaking allowing oil and coolant to mix in the engine
Solution: Replace the LIM gaskets.
Articles - NAIOA
Prevention: Change the cheap Nylon gasket to the new revised GM aluminum gasket before you experience any problems. This will allow you to avoid scooping coolant/oil mess from the engine.

------------------------

Problem: Oil is leaking from under the valve covers
Cause: Bad valve cover gaskets
Solution: Replace valve cover gaskets
http://i963.photobucket.com/albums/a...capecod006.jpg
Prevention: Change the gaskets before they fail

------------------------

Problem: I’m experiencing seemingly unrelated electrical problems in the vehicle. This can manifest and power locks that don’t work, parasitic draws that kill your battery while you are away from the car, a radio and instrument cluster that won’t turn off. Problem may be exacerbated by high temperatures
Cause: Bad BCM
Solution: Replace BCM (need to find a shop that has a Tech 2 to program the new BCM to match the vehicle). Do not purchase a used BCM, these are programmable once and cannot be used in another vehicle easily.
Prevention: Avoid jump starting the vehicle as this might kill the BCM

------------------------

Problem: My transmission is acting strangely
Cause: Could be any of the intrinsic flaws with the 4T65e transmission. Read more here: 4T65E Common Problems Select items in the drop down menu of 4T65E problems to learn more about components with high failure rates
Solution: Replace affected components and have the builder install a Sonnax Sure Cure kit.
Prevention: Change transmission fluid more frequently than the recommended interval. I go no more than 30k on the fluid. If the fluid has been neglected, you might be better off leaving it as changing it could result in the transmission failing in short order

------------------------

Problem: Transmission fluid seeping out of ends of cooler lines
Cause: Poorly designed transmission cooler lines
Solution: Replace transmission cooler lines as soon as you notice the seepage. I noticed mine and didn't get them replaced quickly enough and they starting shooting trans fluid up towards the hoodliner.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l...G/100_1589.jpg
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: my turn signals don’t work
Cause: Bad hazard switch
Temporary Solution: bang on the dashboard near the hazard switch to see if the turn signals work again.
Permanent Solution: Replace the hazard switch
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: Grinding noises while turning, random activation of traction control, service traction system light on etc
Cause: Bad wheel hub
Solution: If the problem is grinding, the wheel bearing is shot and the entire unit must be replaced. For the other issues, visit a shop that can read ABS codes to determine which hub needs to be replaced. Timken hubs are pretty much the only cost effective option. Also check the wiring harnesses running to the hub as they can break/wear away to the point that they can cause this problem. In addition, it could also just be a disconnected / dirty connector. Clean the connector and plug it back together can fix it. There is also a ground near the airbox that gets dirty and can screw up the ABS computer.
http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?...wtopic&t=26477
Tip:To help determine the problem wheel hub, if you turn to the left and the wheel noise starts, it's the right bearing. Could also be stated, if you turn to the right and the noise goes away, it's the right bearing (but most people think about when the noise starts).
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: My gauges aren’t operating properly (inoperative, max out, stay at zero, bounce around)
Cause: Bad stepper motor
Solution: If you are handy with soldering you can buy the stepper motors cheaply on eBay. If not BBEngineering Impala / Monte Carlo Products for cluster repair services.
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: My fuel level doesn’t read accurately (often either full or empty)
Cause: Bad fuel level sender
Solution: Replace fuel level sender. If you have an fuel tank access door in the trunk the job isn’t too bad. If you don’t, you have to drop the tank. 2001 Impala How To
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: Grinding noises while turning coming from the steering column. Possibly feeling vibrations in the
Cause: poorly designed intermediate steering shaft installed from the factory
Solution: lube the intermediate steering shaft. Intermediate Steering Shaft Easy Fix - Forums - NAIOA
Prevention: frequently lube the ISS. I usually do mine at each oil change.

------------------------

Problem: Lack of power, MIL light on, might feel like the transmission won't shift out of first
Cause: Plugged catalytic convertor (2001 and 2002 models are especially prone to this problem)
Solution: Replace the catalytic converter. OEM units are pricey, so aftermarket is the way to go, but you will need to find a solution to the P0420 code that most aftermarket cats will throw. One possible solution is a tuned PCM that deletes the codes related to the post cat oxygen sensor.
http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?...wtopic&t=21966
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: Pulsing/shaking under braking
Cause: Warped rotors.
Solution: Replace with a quality aftermarket rotor and this problem should go away. After going through several sets of OEM rotors, I switched to Centric and haven't warped a set since.
Prevention: avoid getting rotors wet while hot, avoid hard braking and then holding the pads on the rotors

------------------------

Problem: Security light is on while driving or the car will not start
Likely cause: Something in the passlock system isn’t functioning properly
Solution: Replace the ignition cylinder.
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: Water in passenger cabin under the blower motor
Cause: The cheap weather stripping under the cowl has slipped off.
Solution: http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?...wtopic&t=31094

------------------------

Problem: My windows don’t always work when I press the switch
Cause: Dirty contacts in the switch.
Solution: Take apart the switch and clean the contacts. http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?...wtopic&t=14592 Keep in mind this may not work and you might have to buy a new switch to resolve the issue.
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: my low coolant light is on even through there is no air in the system and there is plenty of coolant in the reserve bottle
Cause: Coolant level sensor is shot
Solution: Replace coolant level sensor. 2001 Impala How To
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: Oil leaking under the engine, dripping off oil pan
Cause: Leaking oil pan gasket.
Solution: Unless the oil pan is leaking profusely, you can get away with not replacing it. It is not a cheap fix to do on its own (500+ dollars) as the engine cradle needs to be removed to replace the gasket. If you are getting your transmission rebuilt, ask the shop to replace this gasket while they are in there.
Prevention: nothing

------------------------

Problem: I’m getting some popping noises under braking or acceleration
Cause: If your struts mounts are old, this could be the problem. If not, check for loose cradle bolts as if these aren’t torqued to spec, the cradle moves around and makes a lot of noises that I’d rather not hear.
Solution: Torque the cradle bolts to spec. Tightening cradle bolts - 2000-2005 General Impala Discussion - NAIOA
Prevention: be sure cradle bolts are properly torqued any time the cradle is dropped

------------------------

Problem: Exhaust randomly got louder
Cause: Rusted out Resonator
Solution: Replace Resonator
Prevention: Remove heat shield from resonator, they trap and hold water causing a premature rust on the top.[/quote]

------------------------

Problem: air conditioning blow cold on one side and hot on the the other (only cars with dual zone climate control)
Cause - blend door actuator motor is burned out
Solution: replace the blend door actuator
Prevention: none

------------------------

Problem: windshield wipers not going to park position when turned off
solution: remove cowl and look for a small metal tab on the wiper transmission. This usually gets bent outta place and the wipers don't know where to park. straighten that tab out.

Tadcaster 08-09-2011 08:55 AM

Wow Chi lot of work on your part! thanks for posting...

The_Maniac 08-09-2011 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by Tadcaster (Post 350520)
Wow Chi lot of work on your part! thanks for posting...

Chibi did not compose this (as he stated, it was a copy/paste from IffyG on NAIOA). Regardless, a lot of people I am certain had their hands in sourcing the information over the years (IffyG just added it up). All great stuff!!

Just to add my 2 cents:
Problem: Grinding noises while turning, random activation of traction control, service traction system light on etc
Cause: Bad wheel hub
TIP: To help determine the problem wheel hub, if you turn to the left and the wheel noise starts, it's the right bearing.
Could also be stated, if you turn to the right and the noise goes away, it's the right bearing (but most people think about when the noise starts).
If the noise happens regardless of which way you turn, then it might be both bearings.

My Monte had one bad bearing, but a friend of mine has a '97 Grand Prix that both were bad. I just went through all this.

ChibiBlackSheep 08-09-2011 10:07 AM

Added, thanks!

rgant_19 09-04-2011 12:57 AM

Regardless if the info was from another website or not, I know its good need to know info and I will soley rely on it because half of the list I either went through or going through...
Thanks Chi!!!!! Good lookin out!!!

DELREYAUTO 09-13-2011 02:22 PM

Does any body has a repair manual for a montecarlo 2000, im in mexico and we get to have those here, i got a propble with the a/c is not working and the temperature gauge is´nt either. Saludos...

monte07 09-13-2011 03:54 PM

i have been trying to get on naioa and nothing i havent been able to log on so i think it is usless to get any tips form them oh well i tryed

monte07 09-13-2011 03:57 PM

what i mean is i am getting water in my cabin from the rain

ChibiBlackSheep 09-13-2011 07:52 PM

Turn off the car with the wipers up, pop the hood, take off the cowl and see if there are any water proofing problems there.

BigPana 09-13-2011 08:11 PM

Thanks for the info Chibi !!!! :thumbsup:

amyamzz 10-12-2011 02:24 PM

Replaced radiator..still over heats..
 
Anyone know why Imy 03 overheats after I replaced cracked radiator and thermastat? someone said blown gaskets if smoke is coming from tail pipe but theres none.. I did recently get an oil change and saw they were on the news for messing up cars on purpose to get them to come back..any idea what they could have done? My 20 minute oil change turned into 45 minutes and week later I over heat with a cracked radiator. ~Amy

Thrillseeker 10-12-2011 03:14 PM

If the cooling system no longer has any leaks it can't be that. Is the water to antifreeze ratio correct? Is the thermostat actually opening and opening at teh correct temp? You should be able to tell if it is opening by feeling or squeezing the hose that comes from it. It will be hot and you should be able to feel the coolant going through it. Is your radiator fan working? These are some of the things I would look at.

KathiP 10-22-2011 07:06 PM

Replace PCV in 2003 Monte SS
 
I am trying to locate the PCV in my 2003 Monte Carlo SS. The check engine light came on today. I am in the process of checking/changing out what could be causing this. I cleaned the air filter -- looked new, but vaccumed it anyway. Added an octane booster and topped the tank with 96 octane fuel. Having difficulty finding the location of the PCV... not where I thought it would be on the valve covers? Any help would be great -- pictures speak a thousand words!:o

77gp 11-01-2011 07:44 AM

Great thread Chibi... My Moms car needs this done. Stepdad is going to do it for her(ISS lube) this weekend. May have him do mine while he is at it for preventative measure.

ChibiBlackSheep 11-01-2011 08:31 AM


Originally Posted by KathiP (Post 375101)
I am trying to locate the PCV in my 2003 Monte Carlo SS. The check engine light came on today. I am in the process of checking/changing out what could be causing this. I cleaned the air filter -- looked new, but vaccumed it anyway. Having difficulty finding the location of the PCV... not where I thought it would be on the valve covers? Any help would be great -- pictures speak a thousand words!:o

Take off the engine cover, to the left of the upper intake manifold is the PCV location. Just unplug, push down and turn (like a safety medicine bottle) and it will pop right out.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/P2150001.jpg

Don't forget to transfer the o-rings to the new one.


Originally Posted by KathiP (Post 375101)
Added an octane booster and topped the tank with 96 octane fuel.

Don't waste your money with that stuff. You aren't boosted, you don't need anything other than regular gas. If you NEED to put something in it to feel happy and like you cleaned something, run a can of seafoam in your next full tank of gas.

Possum 11-06-2011 03:23 PM

I've noticed a grinding noise when turning hard and backing up but it only comes at the extreme end of the turn when the wheels won't go any farther. Does anyone know what this could be?

blackbeauty89 11-06-2011 06:13 PM

i have another problem and solution to add up there:

windshield wipers not going to park position when turned off

solution: remove cowl and look for a small metal tab on the wiper transmission. This usually gets bent outta place and the wipers don't know where to park. straighten that tab out.

ChibiBlackSheep 11-07-2011 08:39 AM

Thanks, I'll add it now!

mrslimjim22 11-30-2011 03:09 PM

Do you Know how to turn of your day time headlights on a 03' SS???

canfoos 12-13-2011 09:29 AM

I am getting an electrical static noise in the drivers door speaker. All you have to do is open the door. Nothing on except the saftey/security system. My local dealership says it's the amp in the trunk? HELP!

STUMPMI 01-14-2012 03:15 PM

Antifreeze leak..no visible signs...Magically Disappears!
 
Im curious in regards to loseing antifreeze.....i have a 99 Z 34 monte with the 3.8 series II....I replaced upper intake at around 100,000 miles...i now have 154,000 on it and now im loseing antifreeze with no apparent leaks, nothing out of the exhaust, or on the floor(garage kept).....I dont smell any under the hood or see any signs of an "open"leak, or in the car..... The idiot light comes on and the resevoir is low....i fill it back up...and a few weeks go by(3 to 4) and its low again....IM STUMPED! :confused: literally ! I even pressure tested the system and no leak down what so ever......any help would be greatly appreciated ..Thanks !

MONTE2000SS 03-12-2012 01:56 AM

to check wheel bearings jack car up amd push on top and bottom of tire if it moves than bad.......go side to side to check pipman arm, idler arm,inner and outer tie rods etc.......nice thread very very helpful thanks chibi

cmgee64 03-21-2012 12:59 PM

Having electrical issues.. the battery light keeps coming on, the high beam light comes on randomly. But amp meter shows charging correctly. We changed the alternator but still having issues. Ant ideas?

2000.monte.ss.evan 04-07-2012 07:54 PM

Hey. I have an 2000 SS. With 160 miles. And every so often. A few times a week. My transmission starts potting into gear. Usually after i quick acceleration. But sometimes just during normal dfiving. No idea why. Anybody else out there have the similar problem? Abd the fluid is pretty old. Should i chnane and put in a condioner or.... Any imput would be hepful
thanks

Jparks 04-07-2012 08:56 PM

Problem: Pulsing/shaking under braking
Cause: Warped rotors.
Solution: Replace with a quality aftermarket rotor and this problem should go away. After going through several sets of OEM rotors, I switched to Centric and haven't warped a set since.
Prevention: avoid getting rotors wet while hot, avoid hard braking and then holding the pads on the rotors

Is an issue I have I'm looking into getting Centric since that's obviously what was suggested, any specific type you suggest? I have an 06 Monte SS the only mods I'm going to have is Thrush muffler and CAI maybe a res delete. I don't usually do hard breaking... on occasion... (Windsor drivers SUCK!):thumbsdown:

Jparks 04-08-2012 12:47 PM

Bump

:postwhore:

ChibiBlackSheep 04-09-2012 08:52 AM

Just get whatever you want and can afford. Centric blank rotors (meaning not drilled and slotted) will work just fine for your car.

Jparks 04-09-2012 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep (Post 445739)
Just get whatever you want and can afford. Centric blank rotors (meaning not drilled and slotted) will work just fine for your car.

Thanks Chibi didn't see this post so I made a new thread to can "Delete" the new thread if you want

l0gitech87 04-13-2012 06:43 PM

Hey Chibz. Love the write up man. If you don't mind I wanted to add two more, and I think its a common problem on the Monte's of the 6th gen. Driver's side heated seat malfunction and code P1811 max adapt long shift transmission solenoid fault. Thanks again for the information though.

ChibiBlackSheep 04-13-2012 07:38 PM

Add away, I just need your cause, solution :p

IffyG 05-09-2012 04:58 PM

I recognize this list. I'm glad it could be of some use on this forum.

ChibiBlackSheep 05-09-2012 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by IffyG (Post 456497)
I recognize this list. I'm glad it could be of some use on this forum.

I gave you the credit in my post :)

KPOE99 06-04-2012 12:47 PM

Stalling issues
 
I am new to this forum, and I have an issues with an 04 Monte SS with a 3.8 SC engine, did about 70 miles on the highway, pulled into a rest area, got back in, stated it up, and it stalled right away, tried to start it for 30 minutes, would not stay running, always stalled as soon as it started, had it towed, and it started right up like nothing is wrong, changed out the fuel filter, and it ran great, for about 5 miles, then started stalling again, stopped, let it rest a few minutes, ran great til I got it home, 2 miles, and not it stalls when I start it, afraid to take it anywhere....any ideas?

ChibiBlackSheep 06-04-2012 01:00 PM

Whenever the problem is a hot start-up, unplug the MAF sensor and see if it starts up then.

It might be that is starting to go.

KPOE99 06-04-2012 01:34 PM

Good call, unplugged the maf sensor, started and ran well, plugged it back in, started it up, and would stall within 30 seconds, thank you very much......Kevin

ChibiBlackSheep 06-04-2012 01:41 PM

You can try MAF cleaner, (T-20 Security Torx Bit to remove), but it might be too far gone and require a full replacement. They are NOT cheap sensors.

KPOE99 06-04-2012 06:17 PM

it was too far gone, but was able to get one from a salvage yard for 60.00 with a 90 day warranty.......seeing the new ones that seem any good are close to 200, but it seems to be working fine now...thank you again

ChibiBlackSheep 06-05-2012 09:29 AM

Glad I could help :thumbsup:

3xBlk'monte'ss 06-15-2012 03:45 PM

Thanks for the info!

KPOE99 06-24-2012 01:57 PM

got a new set of tires, and the tire dealer said my wheel bearings were going, went to replace them, and when put the car up, there was hardly any play in the wheels at all, is there another way to determine if the wheel hub assy are bad?


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