After by passing the system, how to turn off the security light?

 

on step 7 my car did not start since my passlock system wont allow my car to start anymore

still iv got a reding
0.869 k olhms

then 0

does it make sense

can the reding be wrong since my car has not start then go off?

 

Thanks so much for the great post. My security light comes on every now and then and in the last couple weeks I've had to do the 10 minute reset thing a couple times. The local GM dealership wants $500 to replace ignition switch and program which I feel is nuts!! Just one quick question. If I use your method but then have to change an ignition switch down the road, will I still have to take the car to GM to "learn" the new switch or does this method eliminate that problem?

 

Thanks for the great write up and pics! I did mine last night after work. After i got the dash and aluminium plate I seen my wires there. It looks like there was a auto start in the car from the previous owner. This made the job so much easier, I didn't have to take the switch out at all! It's all together and did the job! I put on 80 miles today and no more security light on.

 

If you have bypassed the system correctly the security light will never come on. If the security light is still coming on after performing the bypass then you used the incorrect amount of resistance. Go back to step 7.

That reading doesn't sound right... The car should still start if you have done the security reset procedure. I was usually able to start my car after step 4.

1) Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2) Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3) Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4) Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds .
5) Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the PASSLOCK Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).

I would reset the passlock so that you are able to start the car and then go back to step 7.

If you have to change the ignition switch down the road the resistance might change so you will want to remeasure and replace with the correct value resistors as needed. Then again if you are replacing the ignition switch you may not need to do the bypass at all.

 

Well I just attempted the bypass, but to no avail. After connecting the resistors up correctly, I attempted to start the car. Didn't start, security light flashes along with battery. I had 2530 ohm resistors connected. after it didn't start I checked the resistance again, it read 2.56k ohms, so I assume I'll need to go over that reading with my resistors to get the car to start. When I finished the bypass the first time, I did the relearn, the security light went off but the car did not start on the next cycle. Is that because of the amount of resistors I used first was just less than the actual reading?




01 Monte Carlo LS

 

I did the Passlock bypass last night on a 2001 Monte Carlo LS. Someone had been butchering the wiring before me, so I had a lot of clean up work to do with re-soldering a few wires, and re-taping even more. Could have contributed to the random no-start issues. I repeated the Ohm test multiple times and got different readings occasionally. The lowest reading was 3.6k Ohms so I believed that this was the best connection when it would start. Some readings were as high as 4k Ohms, which might explain the occasional no-start condition. I clipped in a combination of resistors that equaled the 3.6k Ohm and it seems to be working well. I was not able to access the wires from the radio side. However what worked very well was to remove the metal cover under the steering column. It is held on by two Philips screws and 4 hex bolts (use 10mm socket with extension). This allowed me to remove the entire lock assembly back into the dash, and then drop it out the bottom with the harness still attached. Tonight I might solder the resistors in, heat shrink over them, and put the dash back together. Thanks for the great write-up, and great forum.

 

Really sorry to bump an old thread but I'm totally lost. My 00 SS will start and run fine with the yellow wire cut, just the security light stays on. My ohm meter has the number fluctuating but stays around 800 before dropping off. It is just a cheap harbor freight multi tool but it has always worked. any ideas ?

 

Ialreadyv cut it and altered it back up

 

Great guide. I have been using this solution for years too. It requires less disassembly and you should never have to relearn the key when you replace the ignition switch (after the completing the procedure). Keep in mind, either of these only works for years 2000 through 2005 as the Montes after that use PassKey Transponders and not Hall Effect switches.

- Disconnect negative battery cable, set aside so it cannot contact battery

- Remove the insulation panel (not the knee bolster) in drivers footwell

- Locate the BCM behind the insulator (will have 3 connectors plugged into it. (connector 1 is pink with 24 terminal spaces, connector 2 is gray with 24 terminal spaces, and connector 3 is gray with 16 terminal spaces) You will need connectors 1 and 2 (unplug then for easier access to the wires)

- On connector 2 (Gray) you need pin A3, which should have a yellow wire. When you cut this wire, make sure to leave enough length to solder in a resistor measuring between 1,000 and 13,000 ohms on the wire attached to connector. Tape off the end heading back to the ignition switch.

- DO NOT CUT THE NEXT WIRE which is on connector 1 (Pink) and is in position B12. It will be a black wire. You are ONLY going to strip a small section of this wire away, so that you can solder the other end of your resistor to it (don’t melt connector, or wires pins may become loose). If you wish to use a “scotch lock” that is up to you, but I would solder it as if this comes loose at all, your car will not start…..until its fixed. Seal up your splice appropriately.

- Reconnect both of the connectors to the BCM and install the insulator panel.

- Reconnect the negative battery cable

- Using your key, perform the following to learn the new resistance value

o Turn the ignition to START (it wont start and security light will turn on)


o Release key to RUN, without turning to ACC or OFF


o Turn off all the accessories (lights, radio, HVAC, etc) that you can, to save your battery.


o Leave key in the RUN position until the security light goes out (approx. 10 minutes)


o Turn key to OFF, remove key and wait 10 seconds.


o Repeat this procedure 2 more times for a total of 3 ignition cycles totaling a little over 30 minutes


o After the 3rd cycle turn the key to OFF and remove, wait 10 seconds and start your car (it should work)


o If any step is interrupted or your battery dies, the entire relearn procedure must be restarted. (consider a battery tender, although I usually do it without one)