Yeah its the base table, when I'm tuning I've been making the base High and Low octane tables the same and then dropping the Low octane by a few once I am done. As for smoothing, I did smooth those cells out immediately after I took the screenshot. I also am extremely confused/concerned that some cells require almost 0 in the base table. There isn't another table adding timing either, because from my scan in the cell at 1600rpm and 0.68g cyl airmass saw 2.9 degrees of knock retard, and the spark was at 5.3 degrees. So it is actually running that low in those parts of the tables.


No thats not WOT, thats the area I was talking about earlier where the car is cruising and gets loaded either from a hill or me increasing the cruise control speed. And yeah, thats after I messed with the TCC stuff and made it unlock at such a low TPS that it basically always unlocks to accelerate even a little bit at cruising speed (although I've noticed it stays locked longer when cruise control is the one accelerating, which is where that knock comes from. If I am just driving with my foot it unlocks before the cyl airmass climbs that high).


No I haven't, that is probably something I should be testing lol. I should be able to get some relatively soon to test that.

 

Ah got it. So if those low RPM cells aren't WOT, are you sure PE is engaging/ its dropping AFR below 14.7?

Just wondering if you need to drop the TPS PE enable % further?

 

I don't enter PE when climbing a hill, my TPS doesn't really go over 20-25% when I'm just cruising. Should I be going into PE at TPS that low? The cells above 0.56g airmass are mid throttle ish so perhaps for those, but the cells below there around 0.3-0.4g are cruising with the TPS under 20%.



Edit: Here is my PE vs. RPM table



Edit edit: Also, something I've been meaning to ask/look into, should my injector duty cycle be reaching into the 90%s? Is that a sign one injector is getting plugged?

 

Oh yeah, definitely not. I see your screen shot is like 18% TP with knock, which is certainly way too low for PE that low in rpm even with the bigger TB. That would definitely destroy gas mileage needlessly.

I just assumed maybe you were getting into half throttle or so and actually making boost. But from that time snapshot, its much lower TP than I expected and still appears to be in vacuum too (albeit not by much, but to be expected under higher load).

Not sure what the time scale is there, but it does appear to be after a TP change - perhaps some AE tweaks would help?

I dunno, kinda grasping at straws. I've never seen insufficient AE drive the thing to want near zero timing, that's what's got me stumped - especially since you already tweaked TCC unlock. Would definitely be interested to see the results of race gas (unleaded of course) to see if any of that remains as false knock.

 

Yeah I'm not really sure what the hell is going on either lol. I'm going to go throw some race fuel in it in the morning, maybe I'll be lucky and it still shows knock and then I know its false. I'll read into AE as well, maybe I'll find something clearly off there.

Also, the timescale for the graphs is pretty small, roughly 0.001s per update. It is reading knock at pretty much exactly the same time as the TPS change, within like 100-200ms.

 

Alright threw some 110 in there, knock disappeared. Looks like it is actual knock I'm considering replacing the knock sensors since they are cheap and got 170k miles on the at this point but I'd be pretty surprised if that magically changed something

 

Well that's disappointing...

I guess at least it's one more possibility off the list

 

Hey guys, I've got some new info on this issue and a couple questions. On my way home for the holidays I took a hilly route and did a couple WOT pulls to see how my knock faired with the colder weather. Turns out I have more knock now. The trip there I had Copper 605 plugs in, which are a step hotter than I should be. For the return trip I took the same route but with Copper 103s and did the same thing. I saw very little change in knocking with the colder plugs. I'm not sure how much I should expect to see just from a step colder plugs, but I would assume at least a small drop right? The return trip was about 20 degrees warmer, so maybe that ate into any potential decrease I would have seen?

Here is my KR table with the 605s

And here is the return trip on 103s


The other thing I noticed is on the WOT pulls my AFR is getting much richer than commanded. On the longest WOT pull with the 103s in I saw it dip as low as 0.69 EQ (10.1 AFR) when it was being commanded 0.81 EQ (11.9 AFR). Surely this isn't because of the colder weather, is it? I went back and looked at my summer logs when I was dialing this in and the AFR back then was very close to commanded during pulls, so either it is the weather or something has changed. I have been wondering if all this knock is because of one or a few injectors getting plugged up and not spraying fuel well. In my mind at least this could be leaning out a cylinder and causing knock, and the fuel trims would respond by adding more fuel and making the other cylinders rich which would explain my loss of power, but that's just a hypothesis. Something else that supports this is that the injector pulse width at WOT is reaching into the low 90%. From what I understand these cars don't run the injectors static until around a 3.2"/3.25" pulley, and since I'm still on a 3.4" I feel like that is pretty high, right? What do you guys think? I can't really explain why I would have MORE knock with colder weather, or the engine getting so much richer other than an injector getting plugged.

Here is a section of the graph with the WOT pull

 

More knock with colder weather is because you produce more boost with a lower IAT I do believe.

 

IMO 103s are way too cold for this setup. Given the 3.4" pulley, its really not flowing much more air / making much more power than stock. 605s are already a step colder from stock, so they should be plenty for a 3.4" setup.

Its not really going to hurt anything, but they're going to foul out way early too. 103s are what I run on my fully built whipple swap.


Knock vs temperature is tricky as it depends what your IAT spark table looks like. It's possible that the runs were done with two notably different amounts of added spark due to cool weather.


As far as your theory on injector unevenness, that sounds like a very plausible idea to me. Since plugs are so cheap, what about putting in a fresh set, going for a WOT rip, then pulling them to inspect the coloring?