Synthetic oil vs regular
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 795
From: olympia. wa
I go with EDGET1530 CASTROL EDGE TITANIUM OIL. You cant go wrong.
I have been running this for about 30,000 miles. This weekend a newly aqainted friend of mine who runs a speed shop in Sumner WA, helped me open the motor up just to see how she looks. He agreed with me the motor looks incredable. I started using this oil when It was around 90 G's.
No visable damage to the gaskets. Go with what you can afford.
I have been running this for about 30,000 miles. This weekend a newly aqainted friend of mine who runs a speed shop in Sumner WA, helped me open the motor up just to see how she looks. He agreed with me the motor looks incredable. I started using this oil when It was around 90 G's.
No visable damage to the gaskets. Go with what you can afford.
Amsoil - 0w-30 Signature Series 100% synth motor oil ... along with an Absolute Efficiency filter, & call it a day, better yet, a year, ... or 15,000+ miles. After that, change the filter, I prefer Wix, & you are fine for another 6-10k miles.
Everybody here has given their "IMHO", etc., & what they have heard, etc. Here is a fact from my life. 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3L V8. Run Amsoil since day 1. Have changed the oil 4 times on it. 35,000 mile increments. First 15k miles run Absolute Efficiency filters, then every 7500 miles, change filter only - Wix - and fill the filter with oil, & carry on. Always Amsoil 0w-30 Sig. Series 100% full synth. Also, when the oil is fully changed, instead of filing the filter with the motor oil, it is filled with Marvel Mystery Oil. The truck is driven in L.A., CA.
I will also say that anyone, & some have on these forums, that do NOT pre-fill their filter with oil before starting, are out of their minds.
Everybody here has given their "IMHO", etc., & what they have heard, etc. Here is a fact from my life. 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3L V8. Run Amsoil since day 1. Have changed the oil 4 times on it. 35,000 mile increments. First 15k miles run Absolute Efficiency filters, then every 7500 miles, change filter only - Wix - and fill the filter with oil, & carry on. Always Amsoil 0w-30 Sig. Series 100% full synth. Also, when the oil is fully changed, instead of filing the filter with the motor oil, it is filled with Marvel Mystery Oil. The truck is driven in L.A., CA.
I will also say that anyone, & some have on these forums, that do NOT pre-fill their filter with oil before starting, are out of their minds.
If you're planning on draining the oil when you store it, then it may not be worth it to go synthetic. We have enough nice days even during the winter where I can drive the Camaro, so I'll never store it (I'll have a garage for it in a few months anyway) and occasionally drive it during the winter. That's why I'll be going synthetic when I rebuild it. I want to be able to just randomly decide I want to drive it to work. And since the heat works really well, I can do that and not be uncomfortable. It's actually more uncomfortable during the summer (no AC) than during the winter. But since I work nights, it's not as bad. Only time I'll drain the fluids is when I deploy.
When I swap in the 6.0L in my truck I'll probably go synthetic as well and run longer in between oil changes.
When I swap in the 6.0L in my truck I'll probably go synthetic as well and run longer in between oil changes.
*sigh*
Yes, lab tests have shown that even 1 single drop of organic dino oil can ruin 5 quarts of synthetic motor oil.
That's sarcasm.
Please, think about it. Oil is clingy and slippery. When you change the oil, you're not draining every drop off every cylinder, getting every drop off the valve train, getting all the residue off the pan.... it's impossible without stripping the engine down. But by just changing the oil and putting synthetic in there, you'll have it about 90-95% syntehtic, and 5 % organic oil will not ruin the oil. Engine flushes, so far as I am concerned, are just a way for mechanics to make more money off of you. Heck, they busted Jiffy Lubes and even a GM dealership in Cali (someone on here posted the video) not doing engine flushes when they allegedly were.
Please, stop over thinking this....
And if you're going to store the car, I say synthetic should be better because it shouldn't break down just sitting there like organic oil will.
Yes, lab tests have shown that even 1 single drop of organic dino oil can ruin 5 quarts of synthetic motor oil.
That's sarcasm.
Please, think about it. Oil is clingy and slippery. When you change the oil, you're not draining every drop off every cylinder, getting every drop off the valve train, getting all the residue off the pan.... it's impossible without stripping the engine down. But by just changing the oil and putting synthetic in there, you'll have it about 90-95% syntehtic, and 5 % organic oil will not ruin the oil. Engine flushes, so far as I am concerned, are just a way for mechanics to make more money off of you. Heck, they busted Jiffy Lubes and even a GM dealership in Cali (someone on here posted the video) not doing engine flushes when they allegedly were.
Please, stop over thinking this....
And if you're going to store the car, I say synthetic should be better because it shouldn't break down just sitting there like organic oil will.
Monte Of The Month -- August 2012
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,074
From: Seattle
Anyone that tells you that dino oil and synthetic oil can't be mixed is perpetuating a myth. Lots of oil companies offer what they call a semi-synthetic oil which is part dino oil and part synthetic oil. Dump the dino oil, put the synthetic in and don't worry about it. 
IMO royal purple is overrated. It doesn't offer any more protection then a lot of other synthetic oils on the market but is priced twice as high. Of course, you do get bragging rights with that higher price. 
IMO royal purple is overrated. It doesn't offer any more protection then a lot of other synthetic oils on the market but is priced twice as high. Of course, you do get bragging rights with that higher price.
Haha never thought of it that way before. The part about it not breaking down like dino oil when I store it is a good point. I've got about 2k left until I should change my oil. But does anyone have suggestions on what brand to go to? Car has 78k is the other thing :/
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,746
I use Castrol Edge with Syntec (full synth). Switched over from conventional at about 70k.
My mechanic's son (who is a mechanic at his dads shop) b*****d me out left and right when I told him that I switched. "Well, changing to synth can actually eat your seals, etc. anybody recommends if you're going to switch, do it within the first 25k."
I don't see the harm - if you develop a leak AFTER switching to synth or high mileage detergent oil it means you already had a leak somewhere and now you're cleaning the crap that was plugging it.
My mechanic's son (who is a mechanic at his dads shop) b*****d me out left and right when I told him that I switched. "Well, changing to synth can actually eat your seals, etc. anybody recommends if you're going to switch, do it within the first 25k."
I don't see the harm - if you develop a leak AFTER switching to synth or high mileage detergent oil it means you already had a leak somewhere and now you're cleaning the crap that was plugging it.
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 52
My 2 cents
If you change your oil reguarlly and dnt do much "hard" driving , dnt waste the $$$ on the expensive stuff.
Small leaks that you might not have noticed w/ conventional oil -- will probally be seen more with synthetic oil , because it is usually a much "thinner oil" . I witnessed this 1st hand when i changed over to castol synthetic in my retta ( it is an 88 w/ alot of miles ) . I stuck with the full synthetic for ALL my fluids , but I have also replaced nearly every seal or gasket there is... No leaks now!
If you change your oil reguarlly and dnt do much "hard" driving , dnt waste the $$$ on the expensive stuff.
Small leaks that you might not have noticed w/ conventional oil -- will probally be seen more with synthetic oil , because it is usually a much "thinner oil" . I witnessed this 1st hand when i changed over to castol synthetic in my retta ( it is an 88 w/ alot of miles ) . I stuck with the full synthetic for ALL my fluids , but I have also replaced nearly every seal or gasket there is... No leaks now!
I use Castrol Edge with Syntec (full synth). Switched over from conventional at about 70k.
My mechanic's son (who is a mechanic at his dads shop) b*****d me out left and right when I told him that I switched. "Well, changing to synth can actually eat your seals, etc. anybody recommends if you're going to switch, do it within the first 25k."
I don't see the harm - if you develop a leak AFTER switching to synth or high mileage detergent oil it means you already had a leak somewhere and now you're cleaning the crap that was plugging it.
My mechanic's son (who is a mechanic at his dads shop) b*****d me out left and right when I told him that I switched. "Well, changing to synth can actually eat your seals, etc. anybody recommends if you're going to switch, do it within the first 25k."
I don't see the harm - if you develop a leak AFTER switching to synth or high mileage detergent oil it means you already had a leak somewhere and now you're cleaning the crap that was plugging it.