SLP Pulley
#1
10-30-2007, 09:42 PM
SLP Pulley
Has anyone had any experience with this setup?
http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=100227
I was curious as to what size pulley they utilize and how safe it really is without supporting exhuats mods and etc.
http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=100227
I was curious as to what size pulley they utilize and how safe it really is without supporting exhuats mods and etc.
#2
10-31-2007, 09:46 PM
RE: SLP Pulley
I am new to Superchargers as well i was checking out these pulleys because of the talk on this forum. My question is do this pulleys damage the superchargers what mods do i have to make to really increase HP. the link to this SLP looks cool I'd spend 236 for 25 HP that won't damage my Supercharger and Cause premature failure.
#3
11-01-2007, 05:50 AM
RE: SLP Pulley
Its not so much the actual charger you need to worry about, but moreso the motor.
What happens is, the more boost you build (on a bone stock engine), the more KR you get (knock retard). This is when the computer picks up a "knock" in the cylinder and attempts to correct by retarding the timing. Essentially, if the only mod you did to your car was bolt on a pulley, the knock would go up since there are no supporting modifications.
...now my theory would be if the vehicle is getting colder, more free-flowing air, a 180 tstat,and there is some type of marginal exhaust work being done, then knock should be reduced if not non existant at our regular boost levels...giving us the opportunity to go up in boost.
my main concern is what size exactly IS that pulley because if its any smaller than 3.5....MAYBE 3.4 (but thats stretching it), it cant be that safe.
What happens is, the more boost you build (on a bone stock engine), the more KR you get (knock retard). This is when the computer picks up a "knock" in the cylinder and attempts to correct by retarding the timing. Essentially, if the only mod you did to your car was bolt on a pulley, the knock would go up since there are no supporting modifications.
...now my theory would be if the vehicle is getting colder, more free-flowing air, a 180 tstat,and there is some type of marginal exhaust work being done, then knock should be reduced if not non existant at our regular boost levels...giving us the opportunity to go up in boost.
my main concern is what size exactly IS that pulley because if its any smaller than 3.5....MAYBE 3.4 (but thats stretching it), it cant be that safe.
#4
11-01-2007, 08:31 AM
RE: SLP Pulley
ok,
so i just got off the phone with slp. They claim that there pulley is a 3.5" and that it is completely safe to run on a stock motor. No aditional tuning is required, factory belt and tensioner can be used and boost should increase by 2lbs.
in addition they claim hp should be an increase of about 21, and tq should go up 25.
...furthermore they said there ratings were quite conservative.
so i just got off the phone with slp. They claim that there pulley is a 3.5" and that it is completely safe to run on a stock motor. No aditional tuning is required, factory belt and tensioner can be used and boost should increase by 2lbs.
in addition they claim hp should be an increase of about 21, and tq should go up 25.
...furthermore they said there ratings were quite conservative.
#6
11-01-2007, 01:15 PM
RE: SLP Pulley
Anyone that tells you that you can swap a 3.5" pulley from a 3.8" stock pulley without any tuning on a bone stock motor, is smoking some serious pipe dope... you are risking detonation, and KR doesn't act quick enough to compensate all the time, so eventually, you will chip a piston.
Stock motors with a 3.8" SC pulley (stock) still have KR from the factory... because of casting differences in heads, head gaskets overlapping into the cylinder, casting differences in the M90 casing, changing the efficiency. More boost means more heat, as simple as that.
Without a scanner, no person in the world can tell you that you can run KR free by dropping a pulley, even if it was as small as 3.8" to 3.75".
Scan first before your pulley change, make sure you have no KR. Do your pulley swap, then disconnect your battery for 15-20 minutes to reset your fuel trims, then drive light on the throttle for 30 mins minimum, then do a scan at WOT from a dig, and scans from a roll and going WOT... then, and only then, will you know if you are safe to run on that pulley.
Even going to a 3.5", I would recommend at a minimum, a cold-air intake, 180*t-stat, 104 plugs, and a u-bend, resonator removal with a 3" DP. Scan still to find out if you're in KR territory... it's the only way to know for sure.
It scares me that we treat our engines as bullet-proof, especially when it comes to boost. They are bullet-proof when run properly, knock-free. :-)
Happy modding.
Stock motors with a 3.8" SC pulley (stock) still have KR from the factory... because of casting differences in heads, head gaskets overlapping into the cylinder, casting differences in the M90 casing, changing the efficiency. More boost means more heat, as simple as that.
Without a scanner, no person in the world can tell you that you can run KR free by dropping a pulley, even if it was as small as 3.8" to 3.75".
Scan first before your pulley change, make sure you have no KR. Do your pulley swap, then disconnect your battery for 15-20 minutes to reset your fuel trims, then drive light on the throttle for 30 mins minimum, then do a scan at WOT from a dig, and scans from a roll and going WOT... then, and only then, will you know if you are safe to run on that pulley.
Even going to a 3.5", I would recommend at a minimum, a cold-air intake, 180*t-stat, 104 plugs, and a u-bend, resonator removal with a 3" DP. Scan still to find out if you're in KR territory... it's the only way to know for sure.
It scares me that we treat our engines as bullet-proof, especially when it comes to boost. They are bullet-proof when run properly, knock-free. :-)
Happy modding.
#7
11-01-2007, 07:40 PM
RE: SLP Pulley
I got my doubts also. Besides, I believe ZZPerformances pulley puller is superior, and cheaper. You'll save almost $100. I looked at them all. You should do several mods before changing your pulley: CAI, u-bend delete, colder plugs, 180 t'stat. Then a 3.4" with a smaller belt. You're asking for trouble if you add boost without mods.
https://www.zzperformance.com/grand_...&catid=111
Wayne
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2319272
https://www.zzperformance.com/grand_...&catid=111
Wayne
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2319272
#8
11-02-2007, 06:11 AM
RE: SLP Pulley
well heres what i did.
Last night i finished making my CAI
I also ordered up a 3.5" pulley from zzperformance (without the puller, i work for a dealer group that also has a local chevy store, so i will borrow the tool).
autolites 104 are going in today (if i can find them locally), and u-bend delet was already done last night.
...i just need to see if i can get my hands locally on a 180 t-stat
Last night i finished making my CAI
I also ordered up a 3.5" pulley from zzperformance (without the puller, i work for a dealer group that also has a local chevy store, so i will borrow the tool).
autolites 104 are going in today (if i can find them locally), and u-bend delet was already done last night.
...i just need to see if i can get my hands locally on a 180 t-stat
