serpentine belt tensioner bracket removal
Greetings all, My name is Dave and I have a question I'd like to pose...
My 2004 SS has recently began to experience overheating issues. After replacing the thermostat and flushing the system (3x) I have narrowed a leak down to the 90 degree plastic elbows that run from the manifold to the heater hoses, they appear to run into the tensioner housing. No I have read that the tensioner mounting bracket must be removed in order to access these little jewels, but my question is how is this removed. I have already removed the alternator and serpentine belt...any help will be most graciously appreacited!
Dave
My 2004 SS has recently began to experience overheating issues. After replacing the thermostat and flushing the system (3x) I have narrowed a leak down to the 90 degree plastic elbows that run from the manifold to the heater hoses, they appear to run into the tensioner housing. No I have read that the tensioner mounting bracket must be removed in order to access these little jewels, but my question is how is this removed. I have already removed the alternator and serpentine belt...any help will be most graciously appreacited!
Dave
Hi I'm new to the forum (1st post) but I can defiantly help you out. I just had mine off a few weeks ago when I changed out my LIM gaskets. One question, do you have the supercharged or N/A 3800? My info is for the Supercharged and I dont know if it will apply to the N/A engine.
The tensioner assembly is held on to the engine by 3 bolts (either 13 or 15mm), they are almost in a straight line running front to back. The FWD bolt is almost under the tension pully (just aft of the pulleys center) and because of this a shallow socket w/ an extension will work better than a deep well. the middle bolt is maybe and inch or 2 back from the fwd bolt, and can be clearly seen when looking at the assembly. the Aft most bolt is behind were the heater hoses connect, directly above the power steering pump.
The install tourqe is 33 ft. lbs. Also have handy a set of picks to dig out the ends of the coolent elbows when (and they most def. will) break off inside the tensioner and the manifold. When you go to install the alternator, one bolt will be shorter than the rest. Make sure that you install it in the aft driver side position other wise you'll punch a hole in you valve cover.
Also when you have the tensioner off its a great time to check your power steering fluid.
The tensioner assembly is held on to the engine by 3 bolts (either 13 or 15mm), they are almost in a straight line running front to back. The FWD bolt is almost under the tension pully (just aft of the pulleys center) and because of this a shallow socket w/ an extension will work better than a deep well. the middle bolt is maybe and inch or 2 back from the fwd bolt, and can be clearly seen when looking at the assembly. the Aft most bolt is behind were the heater hoses connect, directly above the power steering pump.
The install tourqe is 33 ft. lbs. Also have handy a set of picks to dig out the ends of the coolent elbows when (and they most def. will) break off inside the tensioner and the manifold. When you go to install the alternator, one bolt will be shorter than the rest. Make sure that you install it in the aft driver side position other wise you'll punch a hole in you valve cover.
Also when you have the tensioner off its a great time to check your power steering fluid.
My elbows were fine until I removed the tensioner. Fortunatly I had fore warning that they'll break and had new parts in hand. My bane was the dex-cool that had been eating my intake (corroded out to one of the bolt holes). which ment a trip out to the junk yard.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
7th Gen ('06-'07): Serpentine tensioner pully replacement
Hognutsdeluxe
Monte Carlo Repair Help
1
May 26, 2014 03:05 PM
matrx10503
PRIVATE Wanted Classifieds
2
Dec 6, 2011 11:11 PM
JaxJim
Engine/Transmission/Performance Adders
3
May 9, 2011 09:44 PM
Stan MI
Monte Carlo Repair Help
5
Mar 15, 2011 04:47 PM






