Ahh good to know. In my Chevelle I just ran standard oil and never had a problem and she ran good the whole time I had it.

 

Issue seems hit and miss. I know the more pressure on a cam, the more likely you were to have an issue. A lot of guys had issues if they didn't break in the cam properly too. I know some of these modern cams have all these tapes around them that say to use a ZDDP break in oil on them.

 

I've read on the manual and else where that jt is not recommended to do an engine fkush. Even though the promised out comes sounds good

 

And whys that.

 

That is incorrect.

Base oils (the basis of the oil in the bottle) are grouped in 5 different groupings. Group IV polyalphaolefin or PAO based and Group V base oils are synthesized. Not all "synthetics" use synthetic base oils though, some do use Group III mineral base stocks and are allowed to call themselves synthetic oil based on the percentage of synthetic additives used. You need to research to find out more, lots of info with a google search.

I've torn down enough motors to know that synthetic oil makes a big difference in engine cleanliness. I'm an Amsoil user myself.

I could talk forever about oils and my recommendations and never get through to anyone, so I'll make some generic recommendations for those truly interested:
-Google oil filter comparisons or tests, youtube videos, ensure you're using something very high quality
-Use a larger oil filter when possible, 4.3 Vortec for 3800, Acadia PF63 for LS4 PF48, for example
-Google and understand what ZDDP is
-Google PAO, group IV synthetic etc and learn about synthetic base stocks

 

Cowboy6622, I love the '68 Torino. It was my first car, sure wish I had it back. Mine was white with a red stripe, factory wheels like yours. Sure don't see them any more.

Sorry for hijacking the thread, couldn't help myself.

 

I use Valvoline Full Synthetic 5/30

The only time (in over 30 years) I've seen anybody eat a cam is because of improper break-in. I have never seen a cam go away after break-in simply because of a dino vs synthetic oil change. It is recommended to use a zinc additive in ANY engine when you initially fire it off, but once wear patterns are established in the valve train it's good to go (after minor adjustment on some engines) unless you run it dry of oil or the cam bearings weren't properly installed.

 

I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance (the gold cap one). My Monte has over 200K on it and still runs like new. I change the oil every 8ish K....I've gone as long as 11K in between changes (just slipped and time/ mileage got away from me...oops). But my oil has NEVER been black, even after 11K. It's always a golden brown color when I change. And the inside of my engine is extremely clean.

 

Just wondering most of you guys use 5-30 chevy recommends 10-30 even says on the oil cap 0n my 2002. 5-30 is ok?Thanks

 

They switched it officially to 5w-30 in 2003.

The overall weight of the oil stays the same at 30 viscosity at temperature, I recommend 5w-30 to anyone who lives in a colder area so that the start-up oil is a touch thinner and gets around the engine quicker.

My Camaro actually says that if you live in cold areas (around -20) to switch to 0w-30 oil in the winter.

It's okay to change around the cold-start viscosity, just don't touch the warmed up one.