So far Ive only seen threads about chargers and turbos, but anyone have any juice running? Im thinking about getting a kit to see how it runs with a monte.

 

i dont know of anyone but i thought i heard about the engine and tranny not holding up very well with bigger sprays, ive thought of it too tho.

 

What engine? If you're talking about the 3800- its pretty pointless- especially if you're stock. There are still tons of mods you can do to add big hp that is reliable, and you can use on a daily basis without worrying about refilling a tank.

I could see it a bit more on a 3100/3400/3500/3900 because the aftermarket isn't as big- but even then, I'd seriously looking into at least doing the basic bolt ons first, so the car isn't a total turd off the bottle. No fun having a car that is only fast at the track.

 

L36...got pretty much your average bolt ons, been thinking of a major step lately though but I just want to check out the nitrous system and see whats its like. Also if I start with this and dont like it, I know I can always sell it to almost any car and just get something else.

 

IMO, before I spent all that money on nitrous, I would do a L67 top swap first. You can easily do a top swap for about the price of a decent nitrous kit; still have stock reliability- and at least 40 more hp (depending what other mods you already have).

I mean, nitrous is fun and all- I just think if you're still just working on the basic, cheaper mods- that there are much better alternatives. Once you start getting into having to do a $2500 heads/cam package to go faster, then nitrous becomes more viable an option.

 

And thats basically where Im at too. Im in a city thats pretty big on cars, racing, and what not so aftermarket parts are pretty easy to get into. Especially If its a high demand part like nos. But when you get into engine specific parts, such as heads, cam, manifolds, the price goes up, especially when I dont have a civic or mustang. Ive found an awesome nitrous kit from nos here in town, for $400 even. When I asked about any engine internals or swaps, well over 1500. Even a cam they were talking about 1600 in labor alone and "theyll see" from there. So if I dont have the time to do the work, Im at the mercy of these guys. Right now my biggest mod Im looking at is a complete l67 swap for a good price. And if I were to get the nitrous it would still be compatible with that engine, unlike other parts.

My last resort is just to buy an engine, bring it home and as I can, rebuild it the way I would want. It would probably take me forever but at least I know whats been done to it.

 

There is actually a few threads on this topic.

 

And Im not being rude here but "NOS'' is not nitrous, well it is, but thats the name of a company that makes nitrous.

 

That's the upside of having an L36, you can use stock parts (off an L67) to gain power, so its much cheaper than buying aftermarket stuff. Plus, you could get all the parts for the L67 top swap for about what that nitrous kit runs. Not to mention, if you ever decide to sell the parts off- there will always be a market with the 3800's for top swap parts, so it would be easy to sell later as well. Maybe not as universal as nitrous, but you could still sell it on clubgp in under a week if you price it correctly.

Time to find a new shop, or read up on how to do it yourself. You can get a used cam for $200; even new ones don't run much more than $350 or so; and since its a hydraulic roller- it doesn't really wear out like a flat tappet cam. Obviously you'd still need gaskets and a weekend day or two; but you'd save 75% of the price.

If you don't have time for a cam swap- I'd scrap the L67 swap idea too- you're going to get nailed on labor to have a shop do it, even though its almost like replacing it with the same engine.

 

Buy a cheap Compucar universal dry kit from eBay. I got mine for $279 if I recall correctly. Spray pre-MAF. Make sure you retard you're timing roughly 2* for every 50hp you're spray (so, if you smack it with a 100 shot, you'll want to retard 4* of timing). You're MAF will read in the incoming nitrous and adjust fuel accordingly. You will need colder spark plugs gapped a bit tighter- Autolite 605s or 104s will do you fine, gapped between .045-.050 (since you're not supercharged. 'Charged cars would want colder plugs with a tighter gap).

Probably a good idea to at least get a scan gauge if you're going to do this and monitor KR- you don't want to knock on a 100 shot.

It's cheap enough to be fun for awhile, and if you do top swap it eventually, even a little 25 shot will make it run effing hard. Nitrous and roots blowers go together like peanut butter and jelly, or pizza and beer.