ignition control module ?
#1
11-23-2009, 06:33 PM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 774
ignition control module ?
so i went to my local kragen today because im tired of dealing with this loopy idle cold start crap in my car. i've read some things that point to it being a bad ignition control module, so i bought a new one. it was an off brand not the borg warner one. like 70 bucks cheaper. no difference right? the ICM regulates the coils correct, so if anything it should take away my misfires im hoping. i've changed everything else to get rid of the misfires, this is pretty much all thats left. gonna have it installed next week when i get my chromed coil bracket and drivers side polished aluminum mount. might as well do it all at once.
any other thoughts on what it might be?
any other thoughts on what it might be?
#2
11-24-2009, 10:59 AM
Copy-pasted from my post on 3800pro.com:
My SS M90 car idles smooth as silk.
I know this is WAY late...but here's how I got my SS M90 car to run like a champ (for anyone visiting this thread in the future):
First of all- scrap ZZP's SS M90 tune- it's absolute crap- my car barely ran on it. You need tuning software, or a tune from a competent local person to sucessfully run this kit. Period.
Next:
1. Copy the idle speed settings from a 2004-2005 GTP. They're a bit higher, and my SS M90 car loves them.
2. Modify your startup AFR correct for cold starts. Increase the delay timer so that the AFR correction stays in place longer- I copied the "-40" column across the whole table. I also increased the AFR subtractor by .5 for cold starts.
3. VE tune the car. This made a HUGE difference in idle quality for me.
4. I set fuel pressure to 50 PSI at idle. It's what the car seems to like best.
5. AL103s are way too cold for this setup. I switched to 104s- noticeable improvement in startup time and better overall driving.
6. Make sure you use L67 style fuel injector retaining clips! This is critical.
7. Using an L67 throttle body makes the car drive MUCH better.
8. Relocate the MAP sensor- the SS M90 instructions call for it to be attached to the throttle body. I was seeing major weirdness on initial acceleration in the MAP readings in this location. KPA would initially drop hard, then rocket back up. I relocated it to the vacuum nipple under the supercharger snout via a vacuum T (the other side connects to the fuel pressure regulator)- the car runs much better.
First of all- scrap ZZP's SS M90 tune- it's absolute crap- my car barely ran on it. You need tuning software, or a tune from a competent local person to sucessfully run this kit. Period.
Next:
1. Copy the idle speed settings from a 2004-2005 GTP. They're a bit higher, and my SS M90 car loves them.
2. Modify your startup AFR correct for cold starts. Increase the delay timer so that the AFR correction stays in place longer- I copied the "-40" column across the whole table. I also increased the AFR subtractor by .5 for cold starts.
3. VE tune the car. This made a HUGE difference in idle quality for me.
4. I set fuel pressure to 50 PSI at idle. It's what the car seems to like best.
5. AL103s are way too cold for this setup. I switched to 104s- noticeable improvement in startup time and better overall driving.
6. Make sure you use L67 style fuel injector retaining clips! This is critical.
7. Using an L67 throttle body makes the car drive MUCH better.
8. Relocate the MAP sensor- the SS M90 instructions call for it to be attached to the throttle body. I was seeing major weirdness on initial acceleration in the MAP readings in this location. KPA would initially drop hard, then rocket back up. I relocated it to the vacuum nipple under the supercharger snout via a vacuum T (the other side connects to the fuel pressure regulator)- the car runs much better.
#3
11-24-2009, 01:36 PM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 774
wow. got me thinking.
i did a full tune with HP tuners, but im gonna copy that down for my shop and match my settings. see if it changes anything. Thanks!
i did a full tune with HP tuners, but im gonna copy that down for my shop and match my settings. see if it changes anything. Thanks!
#4
11-24-2009, 01:42 PM
Did you VE tune? If you need any help or anything hit me up...if you're not on www.3800pro.com, you can find me on there more than on here.
#5
11-24-2009, 01:43 PM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 774
no, i dont think my shop did a VE tune. they wanted to keep my car overnight so they can do a coldstart in the morning and log it all, see whats really happening. its just annoying haha.
#7
11-24-2009, 08:14 PM
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S.F. Bay Area
Posts: 774
im not too familiar on VE tuning, could you explain exactly what you did so i could have my guys check it out?
#8
11-24-2009, 09:36 PM
Not sure how its done with HPTuners- but with a Powrtuner a VE tune is done by unplugging the MAF, setting PE enable to 100%, etc- and adjusting the VE table up/down per cells based off your scan data from driving after it learns the new condition. Once you get it dialed in, you set you PE back and plug the MAF back in, and reset the trims.
#9
11-24-2009, 11:24 PM
VE Tuning is covered in detail here:
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...m_garys_tuning
Honestly, you follow all of the steps listed here from start to finish- this is a GREAT tuning guide!
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums...m_garys_tuning
Honestly, you follow all of the steps listed here from start to finish- this is a GREAT tuning guide!