All on the same dyno
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Originally Posted by 03vaderSS
(Post 698152)
I wanted to run the 2 bar with the flashed PCM but he said it would be a more expensive tune and take longer to tune.
I emailed Zoomer and he said either the cam is installed wrong or the timing is way off and I should be making 100 hp more You could also start digging into that stuff before you get the injectors if you're that confident something is mechanically wrong- it certainly has a high probability of being the case. |
If the cam was installed wrong then the car would be back firing but it doesn't. The pushrods are all new and matching
Lengths. The head gaskets are cometic and brand new as well. I can't see him installing the cam wrong and i trust him with his head shop he uses all the time. I can't believe this is happening over a year later and the money I've spent. He's basing it off the injectors and says it's not getting proper fuel. I agree but I can't see it gaining 100'hp 1000 Rpms higher. |
Bump I know it's hard to tell
But csn I email you a video of it idling with the cutout open? It doesn't sound like the cam is installed wrong but maybe you could Tell Better then I can? I can't post pics or vids on here with my iPhone it won't work. Also my tuner said that since I have the zzp transmission with the 2500 tq converter that will decrease my power as well. I don't see how that makes sense. He also said that he didn't ask the shop for the flow numbers on the heads since he just had the runners slightly ported and the valves replaced |
Originally Posted by 03vaderSS
(Post 698153)
The only other power mods I have added since last time was an exhaust cutout, removed the high flow cat, e85, -8 fuel lines -6 return lines, 2.8 pulley , ported sc inlet, northstar tb kit, a second short stack inter cooler and a 5 gal coolant res. I forgot to
Mention last time I was using an xp hot cam. -throttle body (make sure you're getting 100% wide open throttle, not tps signal but actual tb opening) -cam install (lots that can go wrong here, including a manufacturing defect in the cam) -tune Obviously the fueling isn't an issue since he says AF is fine until you run out of injector. With 24 degrees of timing, your boost level and intercooling is fine. I just hot off the phone with my tuner and I mentioned what you were saying and Zoomer from zzp and he sticks by his head shop who has ported heads for 3800s a lot. Also he claimed the cam is installed correctly which I believe it is as well and the timing was not done wrong because I already had the double roller installed with my xp hot cam. Sounds like they're just in CYA mode trying to blame anything but their work. It's a tough call to make. Either you can keep trusting them and burning money in the hopes that they've got a handle on it- or you pack up your car and find a different shop. They're certainly right about the next step with injectors (although they should've known ahead of time that 60s would not be enough on E85), so maybe you stick it out until those are in and see what a full pull looks like. He is saying it will gain power from the bigger injectors but I can't see 100 like Zoomer said missing out on with my build. It's aggravating. I've spent too much with add ons and e85 to make less power. It doesn't make sense even Zoomer said it's hard to make less power even with a lot of error and with my mods especially. I don't know what to do. As far as comparing the loss in power, about what was your power at on your last good dyno run at say 5000 rpm? That way you're at least comparing apples to apples. If the cam was installed wrong, wouldn't the car be undrivable? It's only if they installed it way off that it wouldn't run at all. |
On this set up it was 275 hp and 298 tq at 5200. And how can I tell if there is a defect in the cam from the factory, that means id have to drop the motor and go back to step 1. Im out of money at this point and he won't do the the right thing because he will stick to his guns. I'm screwed
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Originally Posted by 03vaderSS
(Post 698158)
Bump I know it's hard to tell
But csn I email you a video of it idling with the cutout open? Also my tuner said that since I have the zzp transmission with the 2500 tq converter that will decrease my power as well. I don't see how that makes sense. |
Originally Posted by 03vaderSS
(Post 698161)
On this set up it was 275 hp and 298 tq at 5200.
What I mean is if you had say 300 whp at 5000 before, and this time you only had 260 at the same 5000, that would help point to there being another problem. You should be up on power across the entire WOT portion of the chart until you ran out of fuel. If you're down across the board, you need to prepare for more work because something is for sure wrong. And how can I tell if there is a defect in the cam from the factory, that means id have to drop the motor and go back to step 1. Im out of money at this point and he won't do the the right thing because he will stick to his guns. I'm screwed As I mentioned before, there's only a handful of big things that changed since your 'good' run. You can verify the throttle is opening 100% yourself, that's easy. Then it'll be down to cam or the tune being the culprit. For now, there isn't much you can do but wait on the injectors so you can make a full pull. |
Yea I guess that's all I can do, I'm numb though and the wait is killing me I've given my every dime to this car and this is how it goes. I don't remember or have the dyno sheet from the 93 tune and that build.
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Originally Posted by 03vaderSS
(Post 698165)
Yea I guess that's all I can do, I'm numb though and the wait is killing me I've given my every dime to this car and this is how it goes.
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