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Flashing CEL and slow shifts

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  #21  
Old 05-12-2010, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep
That's all you do.

Very easy. But you'll want to open the driver's door when you take off the dog bones, rock the car back and forth and watch the engine closely. When it gets to where you want it to be, step on the parking brake and it will hold there.

Simply remove the parking brake to let the engine go back to where it belongs.
we just tried, we got enough room now but we still cant get nearly enough force to move the nuts... i think im gonna end up takin it into a shop if we dont make any progress soon....
 
  #22  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:01 PM
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let me take a stab at helping you. I uses 5 rachet extentions and a cheater bar. A good idea is (and this is what I did) run your car for about 3 min. and let the exhaust heat up the bolts since you cant get a torch up there. This is what I did and I had teh whole job done in about 45 min.
 
  #23  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by wht02monte
let me take a stab at helping you. I uses 5 rachet extentions and a cheater bar. A good idea is (and this is what I did) run your car for about 3 min. and let the exhaust heat up the bolts since you cant get a torch up there. This is what I did and I had teh whole job done in about 45 min.
wouldnt that make it even harder? i know i dropped out but im pretty sure heats makes things expand... and if i get it hot enough for the bolts to "give" a little, when my hand slips and hits the downpipe im gonna have 3rd degree burns... then agian i might be wrong on all of that
 
  #24  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:39 PM
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Well of course, be carful not to touch the hot metal. Then after you use the cheater bar (its some kind of extention for the ratchet) and loosen up the bolts, let the downpipe cool off before you do any work. Heat does make things expand of course. But ive been told if you need to loosen somthing that regularly get hot, heat will help you loosen it. I did this same thing and it worked real good for me. If you have already soaked it in somthign thats flammable, it might not be a good idea to get it really hot, or just have a fire extinuisher handy LOL
 
  #25  
Old 05-12-2010, 01:41 PM
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And one more thing, useing the cheater bar will give you some more clearence so it lowers the chance of making contact with the hot DP.
 
  #26  
Old 05-13-2010, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by wht02monte
And one more thing, useing the cheater bar will give you some more clearence so it lowers the chance of making contact with the hot DP.
well i was putting a wrench on the end of the ratchet so i would be able to get a bit more leverage, tommorow im gonna let it run for a few min then try to get it off, aint gonna have the money to take it to the shop until tuesday so i got a little while to come up with sumtin amazing lol
 
  #27  
Old 05-13-2010, 08:34 AM
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Yeah man, you should be able to get it off after you let it run a minute. I broke a socket before I tried heating it up. After I heated it up, it took no more than a half hour to finish, like I said, it didnt take more than 45 minutes to do the whole job. Another thing I did, I didnt slowly give it force as I was trying to loosen it, I gave it short firm "bursts" of force and it eventually gave. Good luck.
 
  #28  
Old 05-13-2010, 09:32 AM
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Should probably invest in a good breaker bar.
 
  #29  
Old 05-13-2010, 10:10 AM
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Just so I am not giving false info here, can anyone 2nd the whole starting the car thing to heat it up. Or is there a better idea that anyone can think of? Id rather not be suggesting somthing that there is a better idea of.
 
  #30  
Old 05-13-2010, 10:25 AM
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Better idea would be torching the bolts until they are red, but without a torch what can you do?

Soak with PB Blaster over night, a couple of times during the day etc. Get a good breaker bar and really go at the bolt. But remember to just use the breaker bar to crack the seal and then finish it up with a regular socket.
 


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