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-   -   6th Gen ('00-'05): Engine Codes (Misfire, Crank Sensor... sigh...) (https://montecarloforum.com/forum/engine-transmission-performance-adders-12/engine-codes-misfire-crank-sensor-sigh-35692/)

whitemonte 04-14-2012 01:07 AM

Engine Codes (Misfire, Crank Sensor... sigh...)
 
Here's the other thread I said I would make, to keep my engine and tranny problems separate from each other. My car is a 20o0 Monte Carlo SS 3.8L V6.

I am currently experiencing some really odd issues with my car. They're listed below:

1) When I can on the highway, it feels like everything locks up for a second then goes right back to normal. It makes the car jerk pretty hard, and I've not noticed any other "problems" that this symptom has caused.

2) I am getting an almost constant P0400, which is because I have a secondary air pump that's supposed to be hooked up to the back of my exhaust manifold, but it appears I am missing some vacuum line. Any way to stop this? I am not in an emissions testing region.

3) I am also getting (I forget the code #) a 1st Cyl. Misfire code, confirmed (not pending). I have an app on my Android phone that connects to my ELM327 BT adapter to read the codes, so I can usually get the codes pretty quickly. I clear them all the time, though, becuase the engine light is obnoxious.

4) My newest issue is a P0336 code, which is something about the circuitry of the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Since I am not exactly sure WHY this is happening, are there any common things I should look for?

I really hope that someone can help me try to keep my baby running. I've put so much blood, sweat, and energy into this car that I really hate to see her sad like this.

mwjames 04-14-2012 11:57 AM

if you know were the vacuum lines supose to go then pick some hose up and throw it on. Misfire could be plugs/wires, icm, or just a coil pack. What have you all done to your car and aprox. how many miles ago? To test if its a coil pack switch 1 for another and see if the misfire switches cylinder. 2000-2002 has a known problem for catylitic converter failure wich may be the fix to problem 1. For the last issue did the code read something about low input? If so there's a good chance its just sensor failure, or if it has seals they may be damaged.

whitemonte 04-14-2012 12:38 PM


Originally Posted by mwjames (Post 447822)
if you know were the vacuum lines supose to go then pick some hose up and throw it on. Misfire could be plugs/wires, icm, or just a coil pack. What have you all done to your car and aprox. how many miles ago? To test if its a coil pack switch 1 for another and see if the misfire switches cylinder. 2000-2002 has a known problem for catylitic converter failure wich may be the fix to problem 1. For the last issue did the code read something about low input? If so there's a good chance its just sensor failure, or if it has seals they may be damaged.

Yes, the code did mention low input. It was a "yellow" code (means pending on my code reader). The last time I found this code, I didn't experience any symptom, but often times, when I get this code, the situation in Problem 1 in my OP occurs.

monte07 04-17-2012 02:38 PM

i agree i would do a tune up to see if the plugs are worn. just when you are there you can replace the wires nocking out two potential comon might be problem with the miss fire. after that it could be a missfire with the poticular coil. the reason why i said replace wires and plugs they are a little cheaper than the coil packs. with the error with the crank sencor i would replace the whole thing and the ceal that comes with it to make sure it does not come up with the same code again. with the cat problem i would find some hoses to hook back up to it to make it run better. might get a little more life out of the original but it is the most comon problem with the 3800. if it didnt i would get a aftermarket high flow one from magnaflow or a whole complete down pipe frome zzperformance or anouther 3800 place that also makes it have a straighter pipe with cat

mwjames 04-17-2012 03:39 PM

I'd say your to do list is 1. Plugs/wires (don't buy the super cheapys) I usually buy the lifetime belkin wire set from napa 2. Replace that crankshaft sensor that's a vital sensor to engine life and the code being set off is most likely telling you the sensor is shot 3. Replace the vacuum from the air pump, its there to feed gases into the intake manifold, w/o that hooked up your pcm can't run the car like its programmed to 4. Bring your car to a mechanic and have the cat checked. I agree with monte07 if it needs replacement get a magnaflow, or downpipe with cat from zzp (nice little upgrade) my magnaflow cat costed $100 and $75 to have welded. I received close to $75 for my old cat. And let us know how everything goes good luck!

whitemonte 04-18-2012 03:29 AM

I'll definitely look into the magnaflow cat if I can't get the issues resolved another way.

Here's an update on what I am experiencing with my monte, though.

Last weekend, I went to a junk yard, and stumbled across another car with the same air injection system that my monte has. I took photos of the one on the car in the yard, pulled all the vacuum lines, and got them all figured out on my car. I do not get any engine codes related to my secondary air injection system any longer.

I am getting more and more codes regarding my crank sensor though as well as other items. I'm not the most fortunate person here right now, so I can't spend much money at all on the car, but I've found an oil leak that's got my crank sensor soaked in oil, and the source of the leak, i believe, is actually from a sensor that slides into the timing chain cover and only accessible by removing the harmonic balancer. So, I will be repairing that very soon. I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. Also, once I retrieve my codes that I saved to my phone, I'll post them here, too.

and, zzp?

mwjames 04-18-2012 08:23 PM

Can you post a pic of the leak ? I wouldn't replace the sensor until the oils done dripping on it. Zzp is a site aftermarket parts site, with tons of goodies! I think its ZZPerformance - Go Fast... Not Broke | 3800 | Ecotec | Sonic/Cruze. I'm interested to see the new codes

mwjames 04-18-2012 08:31 PM

Can you post a pic of the leak ? I wouldn't replace the sensor until the oils done dripping on it. Zzp is a site aftermarket parts site, with tons of goodies! I think its ZZPerformance - Go Fast... Not Broke | 3800 | Ecotec | Sonic/Cruze. I'm interested to see the new codes

whitemonte 04-19-2012 11:28 AM

Once I pull the balancer, I'll snap a couple pictures so you can see what I am seeing.

I replaced the crankshaft seal about 45 days ago and it didn't fix the oil leak at all. I looked around the oil pan to see if i had anything obvious where the gasket is, and nothing. Somehow oil is splashing onto the belt, being launched all over the place. This is why I am going to check that sensor that's behind the balancer to see if it's leaking. All that holds it in position is a screw and an o-ring, so maybe the o-ring went bad.

whitemonte 04-26-2012 03:23 AM

I plan on fixing the oil leak this week, once I get done with my work for the week.

One thing I noticed, though, is that since I installed the vacuum lines that were missing (read the thread for more info) I have only gotten 1 engine light since, and that was while i was driving my Monte the next day, i believe. Since then, I haven't had to clear any codes (that's not to say there aren't any pending, just no light yet).

mwjames 04-29-2012 10:39 PM

which code is it throwing now? does it feel to be running smoother?

whitemonte 04-30-2012 09:20 AM

It threw one more code about the secondary air injection system but I am guessing it was simply a failed test from before I installed the vacuum lines. It seemed to run a bit smoother, yes.

But... I attempted to fix the oil leak over the weekend. I replaced the oil seal that presses into the timing chain cover behind the balancer. I also bought a repair sleeve for the neck of the balancer because it had a groove worn into it.

After the repair, I put maybe 45 miles on the car and found out I had lost 1.5 quarts of oil. On the oil seal, it's got two slightly soft lips of rubber that wrap around the neck of the balancer. The outside lip was completely ripped off, and pieces of it were stuck to the silver fins on the inside of the balancer. So, I am assuming that one of the pieces of the rubber was stuck between the neck and the other lip of the remaining seal, allowing oil to almost gush out without me realizing. So, the car is taken apart, sitting in my garage, while I try to figure out how I am going to get another seal to install.

mwjames 05-02-2012 02:48 AM

did you make sure to lube it with some oil before you pushed it in? did it go in by hand or did you use a tool or maybe a piece of pipe? To me it sounds like you just didn't get it to go in all the way. So you will have to try again.

Take out old one, lube the new with some oil, the books will tell you to put a thin layer of rtv on the outer edge which isn't a bad idea but probably not needed in all cases since you're having problems do it, then make sure you get it in there all the way get a pipe thats the same size to tap it in with and you should be good to go. Also try to remove all the old remaining gasket but make sure you don't etch the metal.

whitemonte 05-03-2012 03:17 PM

The lip of the seal was flush with the timing chain cover. I did lubricate both the seal and the neck of the balancer. I got my 3rd set of gaskets and seals today, so I am going to try this for a 3rd time this year. Wish me luck.

mwjames 05-03-2012 11:44 PM

3rd time is a charm good luck!!!!!!!


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