I know there is no Hubcentrix on any of the custom wheels and that could also cause this. There was also no Hubcentrix on the 22s when they were on and I had the same problem, same side but not as bad. Brakes need to be done but when I did the hub both caliper bolts were there. The top one screwed in and the caliper sides on the bottom one. It was that way on both sides. And honestly, it does feel like a poorly balance wheel. I do have a fifth wheel and tire in the trunk. I got 5, So maybe after work I will swap them and see if that changes anything. If it does I'll order the Hubcentrix from Pepboy's and pick it up this evening!
And YES! This is Very Frustrating!

 

Also sounds probable, iv jyst never heard a CV joint described like that unless its absolutely busted. And you would not have driven on that for over a year without getting in a wreck especially if it went over 60. That sounds like a good place to start. Its alwats nice to find a cheaper solution. Hope I was atleast a little helpfull.

 

Well, I put the 5th tire on. Check the one I took off forexcessive wear. It looked like new. While I had the tire off I check the brake and the CV axle. All good. Which is leading me to believe that whatever this problem is, it's in the Trans itself. Possibly the bearing for end gear. If I put medium pressure on it, it doesn't wobble as bad. But now I'm starting to feel a mild hump as I pull out from a parking space. It really feels like something is out of ballance or out of round. But there is no noise other than the dashboard rattling. I need a Master Transmission mechanic , and a Jeany! $3300 to get the new one and have it installed. Anyone got the winning numbers for the next Lottery?
The one good thing is that I can still drive it. The bad part of that is that I can feel the power of the motor and I'm getting cramps from keeping my foot out of it!

 

Maybe the axle istself? I had another idea but I forgot it. Ill post if I remember.

 

Well I was going to replace the whole axle with the CV joint. My buddy at work, The X-Ford mechanic, suggested the final gear bearing in the trans. He and I argue/debate a lot during our 8 hrs together. But he is good. Even though he worked for Ford he had a 67 and a 68 chevel. Anyways, he made me think about the Hubcentrix.
Frustrating this is. But I LOVE this car! I refuse to let these difficulties beat me!

 

I hear you, it would suck to be your trans, I feel like that might generate a code though? You actually may have solved one of my problems with another post. You mentioned leaking struts and I have had a phantom squeek for sometime now.

 

Cool. I'm glad I could help. Red Nightmare actually helped me with my squeaky strut. She said her strut bushing bearing bolt squeezed hers tighter than mine was.
I'm hear to get help, and talk about Montes. But I love it when I can help someone keep there Montes on the road. Or just get a new head unit or tires. Always Loved Cars, I have! I know I don't know everything, but I share what I do know. Just wish I could find the Know All Guru when I have a problem lime this. MCF and it's members are the closest I have found in 30 years! The only other thing I need is access to a Lift. I'd really learn then.

 

How do you check the strut for leeks? Suspension is not my forte, I'm an electronics guy.

 

If your struts are leaking you will see oil on the piston. Or, if they are all dried out there will be rust on the piston. Squeaking can also happen due to the grease in the strut bearing getting dirty or dried out. Then there is always the bounce test. Press down on the car in the area were the strut is to compress the strut, then let it go. If the strut is good it will come back to it's resting position and stay there. If it is bad the car will bounce one or more times.

 

IMO you are 'borrowing trouble by using crimp connectors for your repairs. You have already discovered that they are prone to creating problems, so why repeat the mistake? The wires should be soldered and protected with shrink tube. Not only will this deter/prevent resistance in the circuits (which will alter the sensor signal to the PCM)' but it is a repair that will last for years. It won't be long until oxidation and vibration cause your electrical gremlins to return.