All of the newer Monte's have speed limiters. However, you can get a programmed PCM chip or a programmer that will get rid of that for you.

 

Man that blows. Why would you go thru the trouble of the tires, speedo, looks and cut it back. Seems like the Z-28 had this problem for a while but then GM decided to let the Z's go for a few years. I had a 91 RS with 350, 5 spd. hopped up pretty good when I got it.
Alum. intake, headers, gear drive instead of timing chain. THE CAR WOULD FLY!!!![sm=icon_blah.gif]

I drove back home from Myrtle Beach and my brother decided he wanted some. He had a 93 Mustang with 5.0. We took off and he left me. Fuel shutoff at about 112. Pissed me off. I could run right with him until that happened.

 

Limitation of liability I am sure. I am sure we can thank a lawyer somewhere for that one.

I am not sure why GM places such restrictions on our cars other than the above reason, but you know the old saying, there is a way around everything, you just have to find the path on your own.....

With our traffic problems in Houston, I rarely find it possible to do the speed limit anymore and rarely find my self in an open road situation to open her up. It's just too risky these days it seems. I would check with your local tracks, sometimes they have open track days that will allow you to run a couple a laps.

TVW

 

Wow!

Waxing does not prevent waterspots, nor will it remove them. It will hide them, at best. And washing your vehicle is not the only way waterspots are incurred, so while your suggestion is a good one, it totally neglects the other ways waterspots are induced.

My suggestion? Try to remove the water off your car as fast as you can once you are able to do so. No need to "wax often" as it's simply not necessary, so long as the water beads nicely on the surface, your wax is there and doing it's job. Having a good coat of wax on will make it easier to remove the spots so make sure to keep on eye on the beading, when the water starts to sheet or not bead up nicely, wax it up!

Using rubbing compound for waterspot removal is overkill, and that's an understatement. I would suggest something alot more fine, like Meguiars #2 Fine cut cleaner. Doing it by hand will be time consuming, but a random orbital would help out, while preventing any possible damage to the paint. A rotary would be the best way to go, but not intended for noobs as it is very easy to burn your paint and do some major damage. So yeah, Meguiars #2, followed by a good polish or glaze, I use Vanilla Moose. And top that off with your favorite carnauba wax, or synthetic if you so choose. Personally, S100 is my carnauba of choice and Mother's SynWax gets my nod for synthetic.

Here is a picture of my old car, 01 Taurus SE after getting the #2/Vanilla Moose/S100 treatment


[IMG]local://upfiles/298/800FA86DEA7E4FF1B61225490932D03F.jpg[/IMG]

 

The way to see if your car is in need of a waxing, do the bead test. Wet the car and see if the water beads up, if it does, you're good. If it sheets, wax that bad boy!

There are many superior products out there to Meguiars as far as wax goes. A good one to turn pops on to is S100. The stuff is easier to use than any Meg's wax your dad has used, it's more durable and the gloss it leaves is unbelievable. It does not stain trim, it's actually recommened that you use it on the trim too! You can use it on your windows if you want, I know I do. It removes as effortlessly as it applies and without any white residue/dust, which is a godsend. Not to mention it's durable. I could go about 6 months before needing another coat, but I'm far too **** for that, I detail my car every 3 months. When I say detail, I mean, wash/clay/wash/polish/wax. If I have any blemishes that require extra attention, I bust out Meg's #2 and have at it, then follow that w/the polish and wax.

 

Waxing it couldn't hurt, so go for it. I wouldn't say you NEED it at this point, but it's not gonna hurt anything.

Why would you not suggest he use a buffer? That's the easiest way to polish/wax your car. Using a random orbital or a dual action unit like my PC 7424 makes the job much easier and w/o any risk of damaging the finish, short of dropping the machine onto the car. The paint is 100% cured already, so that couldn't be an issue. Hmm, confused on your logic here.

 

Alrighty smarty pants, please, please tell us all what else causes waterspots?????

Hard water is the #1 source of waterspots. Although I mentioned waxing as a part of preventative maintenance I did not note that it was the only method to prevent waterspots. Waxing WILL make it more difficult to embed waterspots on a painted surface, prove me otherwise. I dare ya...



Use it or not, it's a matter of personal preference. I personally would not use a buffer on a new car for a while. I have a buffer that I use on very few occasions cause I like to hand wax. I feel that it's less aggressive to the clear coat. Show me otherwise, I may consider using my buffer more often.


TVW

 

hehe, I didn't say hard water doesn't cause waterspots, easy there guy. But ever heard of rain? Sprinklers? Morning dew? I guess where you live would have dictate the most common cause of waterspots, cause up here in Oregon, im more likely to get waterspots thanks to rain/morning dew/sprinklers. And I never said waxing won't make it harder to get waterspots, I said it wouldn't prevent, nor remove them, smarty pants[8D]

ah, so you wouldn't use a buffer only because that is your preferrence? No harm in that.

But just to put it out there, the key to getting the desired results when using a buffer, rotary or DA, is choosing the correct material and using the right pads/applicators. Personally, I wax by hand also. Not for any other reason than the fact that I can do it just as fast by hand as by machine. Using S100 or my new "product of the moment", Mother's SynWax, application and removal is effortless and dust free so it's nothing to do it by hand and save my machines some wear and tear. But for cutting and polishing, you can't begin to get the results by hand as you can with a machine.

 

ok first off i dis agree with the use of a machine I have three of them and used to detail cars for dealers and will tell you we used to use a machine on them all the time. enough said on that

Now for my own car i hand wax on and then buff it off in small sections only becuse i can get a better shine this way but i have also been doing this sometime and also did it on 10 thousand dollar paint jobs when i worked in a body shop. and those were the cheap cars back then.

as far as water spots the first thing i would tell you to do is find a wax you like one tha tyou like to work with and one that you can belive in . there are thousands of them out there and they all say they are better then the last one. I have used MEG.'s for some of my cars and liked it also have used some stuff called High Temp (but it is for comrecial use) and loved it but i cant buy it over here .

Also i would recomend you take your car and wash it by hand and with a agressive soap to remove what ever the dealer put on the car then clay bar the car real good i normally do mine twice to make sure i hit all of it. use lots of lube so that you dont drop the clay if you do throw it away and get another one Mine has never hit the ground and if it dose it is trash. anything on the ground that hit it will scratch the paint.
then wash the car again with a good car wash soap it should sheet the water this time if your luck. If not you should see a big diffrence in the befor eand after with the water.

Use a wax of your choice and wax the car good once around then do it again if you feel teh need to make sure you got every thing.
As far as the white powder and residue use a old tooth brush around your moldings etc. to clean it out of there.

then you can go on from there
If you have water spots go get a filter for your hose or take it to a car wash that has one and use it . My car will never see the inside of a auto wash at a gaststation . I dont care if it is black instead of white it will wait till i get home first.

now if you want a filter for at home one that comes to miund is that MR. Clean washer they have out it will filter and wash your car but i would recomend you use a bucket and water for the soap or at least keep it verry wet. and when you rinse the water should run off easyily not sheet off it will look like rain x on the windows.

Also i wax the windows on my car ewvery time i wax my car so you should beabel to also and i have never had a problem bgetting it off just make sure you have pleant y of clean lint free twoels for it.
All of my towels i use i have just washed and dried only till dampo never completly dry or they could scratch.

This is why im called **** abotu my car but it is still clean from the day i bought it. and the paint sat on thier lot almost a year before i bought it .

good luck!!

 

one more thing yes your car will pull real hard to 115 and past mine will do every bit of the speedo and more but i ran out of numbers before i got out of it, I also have the advantage of doing this leagaly on the autobond. so i can voch for the cars they will run with the fast toys out there
the only mods i have on mine are the K&N drop in filter and z rated tires on the stock wheels.
and i have the reprogramer that i changed my **** points and my rev limiter and it will shift hard as hell and stay with most things on the road in the state or here.

now with that siad if someone has a VW bug that is modified as all get out your screwed LOL
but the camaros over here do have a chance :-)