kind of a stupid question
meguiars has a 3 step system. step1- paint cleaner step2- polish, step 3- carnauba wax.. so my question is for the best results am i supposed to do all 3 of these steps at once??? the only reason why im asking this is because that seems like a lot of stuff to be rubbing into your paint, sorry for the stupid question. Any help will be greatly appriciated
I would recomend doing the clay bar treatment ( maguire's) then the next tech2 wax. the 3 step is kinda outdated by their newer products. I like the to clay bar about this time of year and then wax about every 3 months.
are you trying to remove scratches or something in particular, or just going for the wax protection..reason i ask is what your purpose is depends on what u do.
i'm and auto painter, and when i have to buff some pesky dirt nibs out of my paint job or remove a scratch for a customer i use a maguire's system aswell. for scratches before i buff i normally use a 2000 grit wet sand paper first , then a "fine-cut cleaner" (this contains small grits to polish out the wetsanding) .. then to remove the swirls i change to a foam pad and a "clear coat Glaze"..... finially a soft cotton cloth to clean off the edges and any smears left behind....both are meguiars products.
this is what i do on my wn car aswell.. honestly.. i've never seen any advantage to using a wax.
don't worry about the amount your rubbing on, just be sure to keep alternating spots you do buff cause if you stay in one place to long, you'll eventually heat up the paint to the point you "burn through" the clearcoat.... and you def don't want that... there's no buffing that out!
i'm and auto painter, and when i have to buff some pesky dirt nibs out of my paint job or remove a scratch for a customer i use a maguire's system aswell. for scratches before i buff i normally use a 2000 grit wet sand paper first , then a "fine-cut cleaner" (this contains small grits to polish out the wetsanding) .. then to remove the swirls i change to a foam pad and a "clear coat Glaze"..... finially a soft cotton cloth to clean off the edges and any smears left behind....both are meguiars products.
this is what i do on my wn car aswell.. honestly.. i've never seen any advantage to using a wax.
don't worry about the amount your rubbing on, just be sure to keep alternating spots you do buff cause if you stay in one place to long, you'll eventually heat up the paint to the point you "burn through" the clearcoat.... and you def don't want that... there's no buffing that out!

Hi Member: `Nuffy
`Troy, thanks for your contributions to the MCF.
Who taught you that method ? How did you learn ?
I am not a professional detailer, but I am always search'in
for tips from the pro's.
Look 4ward to your future posts.

hey kidspace,
last year i took over painting at the shop and that method was taught to me by a co-worker who has 32 years of painting under his belt
.. over the years he's learned alot of tips and tricks that he has generously passed on to me.
but i also have 13 years of prepping & painting expirence, and managed to pick up a few things aswell
last year i took over painting at the shop and that method was taught to me by a co-worker who has 32 years of painting under his belt
.. over the years he's learned alot of tips and tricks that he has generously passed on to me. but i also have 13 years of prepping & painting expirence, and managed to pick up a few things aswell
thanks for the help guys.. i wont be doing any wet sanding on my car cause honestly im scared i'll screw up and ruin my paint lol... i'll post pics later of how it all works out for me
should have my rims on too
should have my rims on too
If you are serious about detailing you should invest in a Porter Cable variable speed orbital buffer. There is no way you could screw up your paint with that. I use ours with a foam pad and Meguires #9 polish. If my paint has deeper scratches I use #2 and then #9 and then NXT tech wax 2.0.
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