ok...first off... what does OEM stand for...also IMO

anyways, yeah...ive decided im not going to take out the back seat...it would look rather silly...i just had the image of my car with only two seats stuck in my head...haha

LED is not that crappy, how u explained it...the current lights dont light up anything...and even if i did put in the LEDs and not like them...i could put the originals right back in...

as for the 4 point harness...what would be an alternative? i am pretty sure the stock seatbelts wont work with those seats

and yes, i got the 50,000 mile gaurentee in a warranty signed and everything...if anything goes wrong before 190,000 miles...its covered

as for lambo doors...prob never gonna happen lol

butterfly wings attacked at the top of the regular attach point and at the top of the door...maybe a possibility when im out of college and have nothing better to do with my money

thank you a ton for all the help dude

 

Original Equipment Manufacture... (OEM)

 

makes sense haha what about IMO?

edit: in my opinion right? yeah haha...figured it out like 3 seconds after posting

 

As far as most of your mods go, I like em. The LED swaps, racing stripe, tail light cover are all things I'm planning to do to mine and if you do it right and make them accents, not focal points, it can look classy. Just be careful you don't rice it out.

As far as the seats go, good luck, they're pricey, hope it looks good.

IMO, don't do lambo doors. They're called lambo doors for a reason and there's even a famous picture floating around the net somewhere of a riced out civic with lambo doors parked in front of an actual lambo with regular doors and it looks ridiculous.

And like others have said, unless you're going to add some bite to your bark, keep off the 'hey guys look my car goes fast' decals. Unless you really do throw a turbo in there, and in that case, HECK YEAH BROTHER.

Just my thoughts. Also, I've found that carbon fiber vinyl adds a very nice interior touch for cheap. But it doesn't look cheap.

 

Everyone has a HUGE list of things they want to do with their cars when they first join and first get a car. You will learn fast. Set yourself reasonable goals and slowly check off your list.

 

i have been chibi...i had a ton of stuff to start off with...this is just kinda a list to give me an idea of what i will do soon

 

See above- basically when I use it, I mean the stock parts that came on your car from the factory.

Don't get me wrong- there's nothing wrong with making it a 2 seater. Lots of Mustang guys do this in semi-racing applications- especially if you never intend to have backseat passengers. However, if you're going to take them out, and since it seems like you're pretty concerned about appearance (since that's what all the mods on your list were)- I'd definitely put some thought into how you would finish off the look of the back seat area. Maybe do a custom fiberglass cover panel with some custom paintwork on it- or maybe just use the area to mount some electronics (car audio maybe?).

I never said LED's were crappy- just that LED bulbs can be significantly more directional than normal bulbs. A normal bulb naturally emits light from all directions, except directly back into the base, whereas LED bulbs (especially the flat faced ones) need to have a built in diffuser to help spread the light out, so it isn't focused into a tight output beam. You'll notice some LED replacement bulbs have multiple LED bulbs facing different directions to attempt to mimic the omnidirectional glow of a standard bulb- but you can still end up with multiple focused beams if its not properly designed. Take a look at some of the cheap LED undercar kits as compared to neon- they frost the tubes to try and diffuse the light, but you still end up seeing bright spots under each individual LED instead of a consistent lighting pattern.

I'm not trying to say that all LED bulbs are like this- just that I wouldn't be surprised if the light output isn't as nice an even as a standard bulb. Here are some pics of what I'm talking about:




Notice 99% of the light is coming straight out of a small section on the tip of this LED:


Why won't the stock seatbelts work? The new seats shouldn't be that dimensionally different from your stock seats, and as far as I know, the stock seat belt mount locations are all to the car's body, not to the seat.

If you're dead set on using a racing harness to have something to put through the holes in the seat, I would just recommend buying a harness made by a reputable company, not some cheap ebay overseas garbage.

One big concern is that the new belts may not meet the certification requirements DOT/ being street legal. Meaning that even if you install one of these 4 or 5 point harnesses, you can still get pulled over, and still get a ticket for not having a proper seat belt.

The DOT approval for seat restraints is FMVSS 209:

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/impo...dex.html#SN209

and it is important that you find a place that sells harnesses that meet this code (and have some sort of label attached in case you get pulled over to verify). I found one place that states they do make DOT approved harnesses:

http://www.schrothracing.com/main/Engineering

I've also heard of some people keeping their stock belt in the car too, and using that for street use, and only putting the harness on for track use:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...seat-belt.html

Even doing that, I'd still look for the racing belt to be SFI approved so you know you're not getting sub-par quality junk.

Here is a link to the SFI page (you can buy SFI approved harnesses at normal race shop places like Summit Racing, Jegs, etc):

http://www.sfifoundation.com/seatbelt.html

That page also illustrates my point about mounting locations, and why you shouldn't use the bottom of the back seat as a rear mount point:



They also point out another interesting bit of information about racing harnesses on that page:



Bumper to bumper warranty from 140k to 190k miles- I bet that cost a good bit? I would bet you'll have something go wrong somewhere on the car in that time period- so you may get your money's worth out of it if you didn't spend too much on it.

 

well the deal with the warranty...i paid $0...because we had a signed deal with the dealership that stated we would pay the first $1000 towards the changing of the upper half of the engine...and they paid the rest, so in reality, we paid $1000 for a 50,000 warranty i guess...but yeah...we found a loupole in the dealership contract we signed that said warrantys from the mechanic were included...so we got the best they could give us...bumper to bumper until 190,000 miles...so im good haha