Cheapest Torque Converter Replacement
 

So I had my used 2002 Monte Carlo LS since I got my license two years ago. It currently has a little over 152K miles on it. I was having the RPM's jump up and down rapidly while driving a 35 to 55 MPH and the RPM's are between 1500 and 2500 (Torque App picture in attachments) so I took it to my local mechanic here in southwest Virginia. I was also having the issue of the car starting really rough. They did their diagnostic and determined that it was the torque converter and it was going to cost $1600. I'm currently an unemployed college student and can't afford to pay that much. I don't know if that's a reasonable price for That repair. I know I can get a Torque Converter for around $100-$150 and I understand they have to pay their mechanics but that seems a little high to me. Would anyone who lives in or around the Montgomery County area be able to recommend a Mechanic or Transmission Shop that would cost less or would someone be able to tell me what a reasonable price it to get the torque converter replaced so I can call around and ask

TL;DR According to my local shop my torque converter is bad and its going to cost $1600. I was wondering if that was too much to pay and if anyone living in my area knows a good place to get it repaired.

Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to give as much info as possible if any more info is required just ask, Thanks!

Edit 1: I just got the diagnosis report it say "Parts:152442 torque converter was slipping 1.00" and "The following work was recommended but not performed: TR50 Torque Converter - Replace. Estimate: 1485.57"

Edit 2: I just realized I forgot a very important detail. The new information is highlighted in bold.
http://imgur.com/oVyZDTvhttp://imgur.com/a/4etT0

Those symptoms also sound like a dirty Mass Air flow sensor. Have you tried cleaning it? I'd try that before I spent money to replace a torque convertor. Worth a shot.

Forgive me for not knowing much about cars but how would I clean it safely and where exactly is it located? I know its in the intake but I don't know where exactly. Thanks for your help.

This is from a previous post from one of our admins, chibiblacksheep:
If you remove the plastic engine cover and look at your Throttle Body there are 3 sensors. (plus the Intake Air Temp Sensor)

Attachment 19601

Each sensor is held on with a T-20 Security Torx Screw. The MAF sensor can be cleaned with MAF sensor cleaner. The IAC could be filled with carbon and gunk and preventing the car from idling. Perhaps try to clean those 2 sensors first before replacing anything.

Remove the Negative cable from the battery, disconnect the sensor clips, then unscrew each sensor and clean it. Leave the battery disconnected for an hour, put everything back together and see if that helped at all.

Ill make sure to try that but I just realized that I missed an important detail in my main post. The RPM fluctuations only happen when driving at 35 to 55 mph and they happen around 1500 rpm to 2500 rpm. Ill update my main post to include this info.

I would probably still try cleaning the MAF first just to see if it makes a difference.

Have you ever had your transmissions fluid / filter changed? Have you checked its level? Could be the fluid is beyond it's service life and you seeing symptoms with the fluctuating rpm's. If your not wanting to drop $100 on a filter / fluid change they sell a cheap plastic little red hand held siphon at Walmart etc. in the automotive section. It has 2 hoses and 2 valves, one sucks and the other expels the sucked fluid into a gallon jug or what ever receptor your using as you pump the handle in and out. You can get about 3 to 4 quarts of the old tranny fluid out this way. Then add enough new fluid to bring it to the proper level. Remember your engine needs to be running when you check your transmissions fluid level.

What we are doing here is trying to refortify your old fluids viscosity so the units internal parts can work a little better. I have done this so many times, I could nurse a transmission along for a year by repeating this method about every 3 months. Additionally one of the replacement quarts of tranny fluid I substitute the "Lucas Stop-Slip" transmission fluid stabilizer ($11 Walmart) . It helps very well, stops a lot of the slipping, hell add 2 quarts of it for insurance, I do. This test will set you back about $50 and if it works for you, there you can now save some money and take your girl out on a date. If it fails, then your back to looking for a transmission shop that is not bending you over. $1600 sounds steep to me for about 8 hours of work and parts, that's about $150 an hour after parts, torque converter and about 12 quarts of fluid. Then they could pull the old, well when we got it apart we saw the real problem and now it's $3500 for a new tranny ... You never know, especially with the hillbillies...:eek: Que the Dueling Banjo's

So apparently my car uses a Harman Vortex MAF, which I found out after taking it apart, and the cleaner I bought says it can't be used on that specific MAF. How would I go about cleaning my MAF. I also have another more serious issue. I can't get the hose back on the MAF and air box cover, The rubber is almost impossible to bend! Is there some kind of chemical I can use to soften the rubber. Im not sure what to do, I've been trying to get it back into place for the last hour or so and I'm afraid I'm going to break something.

Perhaps use a heat gun or hair dryer to help make the rubber more malleable...
Take it easy don't go to crazy on it, bet that would work. :thumbsup:

I think I would replace that MAF with an ACDelco one. They seem to be the only reliable one out there.
Try lubricrating the inside of the rubber hose (duct) with motor oil or a little silicone grease.