Car stalls after 2-3 miles ft travel
 

Initially car broke down due to fuel line leaking from rust/corrosion.

Got all the lines replaced from engine to tank. Including the fuel filter.

Picked up car and it stalled out 2-3 miles from home.

Towed back to shop, said it needed fuel pump. Replaced it with new. Same issue with stalling.

Towed back again, this time ignition module replaced. Same issue

Towed back again, changed crank sensor. Same issue

Replaced fuel cap by off chance that was it. It was not...


Anyone have any idea what I'm the world could be causing my 2004 Monte to be stalling out after 2 miles? It will idle for hours, but can't drive it more than that.

Everyone is stumped around me.

ANyone check if it has any codes? One guess (and this is what it is, a guess), MAF sensor. If it is the MAF, next time it stalls, with the key off, pop the hood, unplug the MAF and see if it runs. If so, that is probably your answer (and the car will run but not properly/efficiently with the MAF disconnected).
Other guesses, air filter or a clogged cat. But again, guesses, nothing more.

Thanks for the response. We did unplug the MAF sensor. No affect.
Cat can't be the problem. I'll have to check the air filter, but should be relatively good. Car gets regular maintenance.

Which engine? Check ALL sensors..

Only code that pops is oxygen sensor. No one thinks that's the cause.

Take it out and test it. What reason does everyone have to think thats not the cause? A bad o2 will cause stalling.

The most important thing I have learned from this forum in the last 10-15 years is dont assume - confirm. Diagnose things properly and save yourself the headache.

Also for me, many times my issue was compounded with something else. One sensor goes bad but the car doesnt run bad enough to notice. Then something ELSE goes bad and youre stuck chasing your tail without proper diagnosis.

Id strongly consider taking it to another shop. It may just be the way it's worded here, but there is no way every one of those systems tested bad all at the same time on a car that was previously running ok. It sounds like they're severely shortcutting the diagnostic process and are just throwing parts at it.

The downside is we're no better off guessing as there isn't any hard diagnostic data provided here either (frankly we're worse off as we haven't ever interacted with the car). Id start with taking a detailed obd2 log from startup to it shutting off. From there they can analyze the data to figure out what system to monitor closer on the next go out beyond obd - fuel pressure actuals, circuit taps for input/output, etc.

Id also second the O2 question whtmonte had. 2-3 miles out could align with when it switches from open to closed loop. If the O2 sensor output is garbage, it could skew trims far enough to kill the engine once it makes the switch.

I'm at least curious which o2 sensor, which trouble code is being thrown.

I agree with being curious which O2 and the code. As I understand, the upstream O2 is heavily engaged in controlling the fueling of the car. As bumpin' suggested it could be as "simple" as the car switching from open to closed loop.

If the car has a problem and is throwing a code, it is usually best to start with resolving the cause of the code, as the computer is literally telling you "something is wrong, look here".