Hello fellow members! I am dealing with a nagging issue with the lock system on my ‘03 SS (3.8, onstar, anti-theft). To make a short story long...Ever since I bought it almost 4 years ago the key fob wouldn’t lock or unlock my locks but would pop the trunk...or the few times it did work on the doors could be counted on one hand. Locks spontaneously work when I put in and out of park. I’ve never really been too concerned until lately. A couple months ago the key fob stopped arming and disarming the car. Replaced the battery, worked for a little while until the internal component that holds the battery in place became disconnected. Didn’t mess with trying to repair the only fob I had for the car so went and got one that came with a programmer you plug in under the dash. I followed the directions, the employee even tried too, but it wouldn’t program. Around the same time, I got a Kenwood Double din installed. In efforts to protect my investment I started investigating, and researching, on how to solve my dilemma, but I’ve not been able to find a match to what I’m specifically am experiencing.

I replaced my factory speakers last week, in the rear and the front, and that’s when I was able to pinpoint where the slight “clicking” I had been hearing from my lower door area...car on, off, or parked and no buttons pressed...was coming from. It was my door lock actuators. So, I remove the drivers side actuator and until the power is cut off/fuse pulled ( no matter lock switch installed or uninstalled) the was still a slight jolt of power making it click. The actuator worked much better when I tested it hooked directly to the battery, but I bought new actuators for both sides (as both sides had the symptom/noise) anyway. So I installed the drivers side actuator (had remove the anti-theft from the old one and super glue to the new) because I couldn’t find one with the piece attached already. I replaced the fuse and nothing...no more clicking. As soon as I hit the lock switch the actuators started buggin out again. I removed the lock switches from both sides and the actuators were still getting jolts of power.

I have a suspicion it could be anti-theft related but I’ve not experienced any time my car would not start. Matter of fact, without a key fob used for a while now...sometimes the alarm has been going off when a door or the trunk is opened..no way to have armed it or turn it off...but I can put the key in and start it to turn it off. I’m hesitant about to mess with programming directions that use the key because I don’t want it to not start at all. Per factory recall the ignition switch has been replaced.



I figured at this point I should invest the money, for a new fob, into an aftermarket alarm system with remote start...after all it could be a security issue. Best Buy says it won’t fix my issue to install the system, so here I am. Fuse is out so I don’t burn up the new actuators, but still no “siren” to the stock security system since I’m remote-less, but I can manually lock/unlock the door and the trunk. Speaking of manual locking....why in the world is there not keyed entry to the passenger door? I look like a crappy date sometimes with no keyless entry and no way to unlock and open her door. Haha

Thanks in advance.

 

I thinking the problem might be the fob. I've programmed several with a Tech 2. I once had a brand new OEM fob that apparently the lock button was "sticking" on, causing the alarm to go off 10 minutes after pressing the button. I still suggest an OEM (ACDelco) fob as a replacement. Seems like all the aftermarket ones have problems. You might need to find someone with a Tech 2 to program it since you don't have the aftermarket radio.

 

Thanks for the reply. The only fob I have has no power to it. So, if I want remote start, get an OEM fob, and I will I have to have 2 remotes when it’s all said and done?

 

I've never had a aftermarket stereo and/or alarm so I'm not sure how that part works, whether you end up with two remotes or not. Maybe another member knows that answer.