Just removed my MAF and the idle is much more smooth even with the lope that it makes from not having the MAF in. Car started in 2 seconds every crank (7 cranks) and the idle was smoother. Did smell a tad bit different but I guess thats bc of no MAF.

 

My brother-in-law is getting me a new IAC. $38. So, I'll replace that as well. I'll report back after xmas on how it's doing. Thanks again everyone and have a safe and happy xmas!

 

I hope it helps!

Make sure you disconnect your battery for an hour after doing the change, so your car's computer doesn't use the old tables for those sensors being replaced!

Have a good holiday

 

Thx again Chibi!

 

MAF sensors are worth the money you paid for them. Low cost=low quality most times, at idle it plays such an important role when the engine is hot. Try simply unplugging the MAF when it's not starting well. This will turn the engine light on. It may have an extended crank time but should run just fine after. This defaults the PCM to basic air/fuel mixtures and will cause the engine to run slightly rich. It's not good to leave it that way for more than a couple hundred km's. Rich is safer than lean for engines but more harmful to catalytic converters in the long term. A faulty TPS can also be the problem but should set a code and the CEL. If the IAC is acting up it should stall when you stop for stop lights/signs etc.

 

Dont know if this will help you and I am no wiz when it comes to these cars , but I had the exact same problem with my 2001 ss and I changed the fuel pressure regulator on mine and it fixed the problem. was easy to do and part cost 50$ good luck.

 

Hey guys! Sorry it's taken me so long to get back. Well, the brother in law changed out the thermostat and IAC valve, and when he did the IAC, he broke off one of the heads of the screws holding it in, so now we only have one securing it down. It's pretty tight, so I don't think it's going anywhere. I asked him to spray the MAF, but I don't think he did and he certainly didn't disconnect the battery. So, this last weekend, me the wife cleaned the MAF and disconnected the battery for a while and cleaned the air filter... Plugged everything back in and well...

It's still doing it... BUT, not as bad... when it's cold, it fires right up like it should... NOW, when it's warm, it fires right up, then dies. Hit the key again, not touching the gas pedal, it fires right up without excessive cranking and runs great.

So, we're getting closer. Maybe this issue is a culmination of just getting old. I guess I'll changed out the fuel pressure regulator next and see if that is the final straw.

Check back later... Thanks guys for all the help!

 

Are all your engine grounds clean and secure? It could be the fuel regulator, but I would run a fuel pressure test (both at the schrader valve and fuel filter) to determine if it's the regulator or a weak fuel pump before dropping any coin on parts.

 

We had the fuel regulator pressure tested and it tested good. We just replaced the fuel filter not even a year ago, and my wife and I use good gas, but maybe she ran into some bad stuff, idk...

If you could point me where to look for the engine grounds you mention, I could certainly take a look.

 

I would also like too know where too find the main grounds like especially the one for the fuel Pump Module,Ive heard the sending unit not working could sometimes be the ground wire broken off or corroded, I know this is a post from last year but any suggestions where I can trace this wire too??
Buddy Mentioned buying an expensive MAF Sensor, Anyone else need one I have a brand new one for sale Bought it at GM for $550.00 and lost the receipt and it ended up being my crank position sensor Make me an offer for it.or trade me for a Fuel Pump Module for my 2000 Monte SS 3.8.