I've heard of the filter rusting before the lines. But the trick is (as mentioned) getting the steel line off without destroying it. I usually get lucky and gentle rocking with the wrenches knocks it free. But I've also lost that battle before. I've had brake lines that were NOT rusty but stubbord and had to gently use vice grips (so not to destroy the metal line). THat *might* help with the filter.

Lots of PB Blaster and patients.

I have tried a couple tricks (like anti-seive on the threads) to prevent future changes from being an issue and nothing works. Current thing I'm trying now is pack bearing grease on the fitting. I've heard a couple mechanics claim the grease holds to the fitting and help prevent it from rusting up again. Time will tell if it works.

 

First off, thanks for everyone who contributed to this post. I really appreciate it. I tackled the fuel filter tonight and it didn't leak after I started and let it run for a few minutes. I will drive it to work tomorrow and check it when I get home, but I hope it is fixed.

To close the loop and hopefully help someone out in the future, below is what I did:
1. Put PB Blaster on the fuel filter threads 24hrs before removal. I did this the night before and the morning before work, then an hour after work before I tackled the job. I think this is the most important step so you don't destroy the fuel line.
2.Disconnected the battery
3. Depressurized the fuel lines. PacerSS gave a great post on this. The schrader valve.(Tire valve stem style) was located behind the shield on top of the motor (3.8 V6). It is basically right behind where you put oil in the engine. I let the pressure off, but the car had been sitting for 48 hours and I did have any fuel come out of the valve.
4. Jacked the car up and put it on jack stands on both sides of the rear with a block in front of the front tires
5. Used a 20mm wrench on the fuel filter, and a 16mm wrench on the fuel line. And slowly worked it loose. Don't force this, if it won't move, soak it with PB blaster and come back to it.
6. Once the threads break loose, remove the bracket with a 13mm socket otherwise you can't tell when the threads on the fuel line are fully out of the fuel filter.
7.Let the fuel filter drain into a pan and then pull the quick disconnect off. I used a set of needle noise pliers to squeeze the clips together.
8. Clean the fuel line really well and remove as much grit and grim - making sure NOTHING enters into the fuel line.

Simply put it back together in reverse order and your done. I used a Fram Fuel Filter G7315.

Again, thanks for the help and I hope this helps someone else out.

Thanks,

 

Glad everything went smooth for you. If you didn't leak right away and there was no visible signs of fuel spray then you got a good seal on it and should hold from here until the next filter change.