03 V6 Monte SS Fuel Filter Change
I have an 03 Monte SS with 98K on it. It is starting to leak gas and I think it is coming from the fuel filter. I did some research on this site and have a few questions. I know I need to release the fuel pressure and I found two options.
1. Bleeding the fuel pressure relief valve
I do not know where this is at or how to do it. Also, many said it makes a big mess.
2. Turn on the engine, then pull the fuse for the fuel and then the engine will die from low fuel pressure.
Pulling the fuse sounds the easiest/less of a mess, but I pulled both fuse panels and nothing jumps out at me that will kill the fuel to the engine. Any one know what fuse to pull?
Last, do I need to put any Teflon tape or other bonding agent when re-installling the new fuel filter?
Thanks,
1. Bleeding the fuel pressure relief valve
I do not know where this is at or how to do it. Also, many said it makes a big mess.
2. Turn on the engine, then pull the fuse for the fuel and then the engine will die from low fuel pressure.
Pulling the fuse sounds the easiest/less of a mess, but I pulled both fuse panels and nothing jumps out at me that will kill the fuel to the engine. Any one know what fuse to pull?
Last, do I need to put any Teflon tape or other bonding agent when re-installling the new fuel filter?
Thanks,
DO NOT DO #2!!!
The bleed valve is located on your fuel rail in the front. There's a black cap over it. Underneath you'll see a schrader valve.(Tire valve stem style) It makes a small mess, but best thing to do is stuff a shop rag under the rail in the LIM recess. and then put a shop rag under a small flathead screwdriver and depress the valve until the fuel stops coming out.
No you do not need teflon tape when re-installing.
The bleed valve is located on your fuel rail in the front. There's a black cap over it. Underneath you'll see a schrader valve.(Tire valve stem style) It makes a small mess, but best thing to do is stuff a shop rag under the rail in the LIM recess. and then put a shop rag under a small flathead screwdriver and depress the valve until the fuel stops coming out.
No you do not need teflon tape when re-installing.
DO NOT DO #2!!!
The bleed valve is located on your fuel rail in the front. There's a black cap over it. Underneath you'll see a schrader valve.(Tire valve stem style) It makes a small mess, but best thing to do is stuff a shop rag under the rail in the LIM recess. and then put a shop rag under a small flathead screwdriver and depress the valve until the fuel stops coming out.
No you do not need teflon tape when re-installing.
The bleed valve is located on your fuel rail in the front. There's a black cap over it. Underneath you'll see a schrader valve.(Tire valve stem style) It makes a small mess, but best thing to do is stuff a shop rag under the rail in the LIM recess. and then put a shop rag under a small flathead screwdriver and depress the valve until the fuel stops coming out.
No you do not need teflon tape when re-installing.
Why do you say don't do #2 (pull fuse). I read a lot of post on this site and many said that was the best way to go. I can see your point when it comes time to restart the car, but then again both options require the car to build up pressure before a restart. Just curious?
Thanks again.
All I needed to do was remove the fuel cap to relieve most of the tank pressure, & let the car sit that way for a good 10-30 minutes. I was watching my mechanic do all this(he lets me in his shop when I'm there.. sometimes I help out on my car). It was resting with the cap off the entire time my control arms were being installed. I did notice the metal line going to it is covered in rust(the metal fitting side) & that could be the same area you are leaking from.
PS, cracking the nut loose (if there is rust) is going to be a big pain on your back. Its the only reason why I had my mechanic give it a shot for me. I tried, got pissed off & gave up.
when its in, turn the key on the 'on' position atleast 3-5 times at 5 second intervals to put pressure in the fuel system(primes the pump) then give it a couple turn overs till it kicks.
PS, cracking the nut loose (if there is rust) is going to be a big pain on your back. Its the only reason why I had my mechanic give it a shot for me. I tried, got pissed off & gave up.
when its in, turn the key on the 'on' position atleast 3-5 times at 5 second intervals to put pressure in the fuel system(primes the pump) then give it a couple turn overs till it kicks.
I say don't do #2 for the specific fact that with the vehicle being electrically controlled fuel injection running air through your injectors is not good on the driver. Along with the fact that leaning out any engine operation to a fuel starved extreme can result in bad things. I would just rather not risk it. As stated you can take the cap off the tank but I rarely see that doing much good as the pressure in the line post pump is what you're trying to reduce. Removing the cap helps reduce tank pressure and also increases gravity push through the pump which results in fuel dump when you remove the line from the filter. If you do that I recommend replacing the cap before filter removal.
Thanks
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Thanks for all of the help.













