Memphis Car Audio SRX1.250
 

So a while back, a month or so after I bought my car, I had an AutoPage alarm and system installed. I had the money at the time so I figured "Hey, why do it myself when I could pay someone else to do it?". They seemed pretty knowledgeable and everything, and after they installed it, everything worked nicely, but me being the perfectionist (somewhat) that I am, more recently I've tried to start cleaning a lot of this stuff up. I knew they'd sold me a used deck, and they explained to me that, yes, it was about $400-$500 cheaper than a brand new one, but they wouldn't warranty it, which was fine by me because I felt I could pretty much fix anything that went wrong with it. But anyways i'd pulled the deck out and replaced their crimp caps with butt connectors, which I just prefer a little more because they look a little cleaner. Today I cleaned the amp wiring up a little bit. One thing that bugs me is that I believe the power (both ignition and constant) for the alarm and deck come from the fuse box. I'll include a picture of my amp wiring and see what people think. Another thing that really puzzles me is that the amp has 2 15 amp fuses, but there's a 125 amp fuse inline with the battery positive for it? Just doesn't add up to me.

Odd that it is a 125 Amp fuse. Normally with just a single amp the safe thing to do is to run the fuse closest to the amperage you need. This is just a safety thing.

I even talked to memphis and they said that that was a rather large fuse. I replaced the ring terminal on the wire today and it looks a lot better than the one that was on there.

In-line fuse should be matched to wire gauge and length of run, in-line is fuse used to protect wire/cabling from melt down.

Wire gauge and length of run should be matched to approx max current draw of amp.

If amp has onboard fusing, that is to protect the amp itself. Generally speaking they'll add up roughly to what your in-line fuse should be.

Looking at that amp, 10 amps is about all it'll pull.