Yeah I actually looked real quick for him, which is where I for the .75 cu ft per sub sealed. I think it was a newer model than what he has, but I doubt the box specs would be much different.

 

i am pushing a 1800 watt amp through the 3 subs but i gt them for free from someone so i have no idea what they can handle or anything only that they sound pretty good in my car

 

thanks dbl that helps in the design alot....so i think i am gonna do the sealed box and make it like the false wall...this will be my first box ever mad so any taips or anything for me to help build this box

 

Make it out of 3/4" MDF, and use wood glue to hold it together. The glue will be plenty strong enough without screws or nails, and it'll help seal the box too. Most people will use 2 or 3 screws/nails at each joint just to hold it until the glue drys. If you use screws, make sure you don't tighten them so much that you squeeze all of the glue out. Use whatever you please to seal the joints once the glue has dried and make sure they're airtight, but don't install the subs until the sealant has fully cured. The fues given off by curing sealant can eat away the surround of your subs. If you'd like to be able to remove and reinstall the subs easily and often without screwing up the enclosure, use t-nuts to mount the subs instead of just screwing into the wood. Also, make sure you drill pilot holes for screws if you use them as the MDF will crack if you don't.

 

The size of the amp doesn't matter, what matters is the ohm load the amp is seeing and how much power the amp puts out at that impedance. In order to know that we'd have to know what amp you have, what subs you have and how they're wired. For example, I have a 1200 watt amp (that's capable of putting out about 1500 watts rms) but the way I have my subs wired i'm only able to get about 900 watts out of it (wired to 2 ohms). If I was able to wire my subs down to 1 ohm I could get the full 1500 watts out of it but since my subs are dual 2 ohm models, no can do.

I'm not 100% sure what subs you have, obviously they're Infinity, i'm assuming Kappa series, and Kappa 10's are rated at 350 watts rms....i'm sure they could be overpowered a bit but I think double rms is a bit much. That being said, my ID subs are rated at 250 rms and i'm giving them about 435 rms each, so it's not unheard of. But I know that ID's are severely underrated, not sure about Infinity. Assuming you're giving them that much power I would say build the smallest recommended sealed box.

The reason I say that is because as a general rule you want to use the minimum size for over rms applications, the middle of the road size for rms applications and the large size for under rms applications.

As for tips, as said above stick with 3/4" wood. Mdf is the most common but alot of people have been using birch plywood with excellent results. The birch is a few bucks more than the mdf but it's also stronger and weighs significantly less. Just something to consider....

 

Alright, since you're using the Kenwood KAC-9103D, i'm hoping your subs are dual 4 ohm models and wired to 2.67 ohms. If that's the case then they should be getting a little under 300 watts rms each. In order to say for sure how big you should build the box you should unbolt one of the subs and get the model number off it. Without that info i'm just guessing.

 

i have no idea what you are talking about lol but i will get you the number off the subs

 

x2. I always forget about birch when it comes to enclosures, but I have definitely heard good things if you're willing to pay the extra money for it.

 

hey i got another question about cross overs....do i need cross overs and which one would be the best one for my system since i have never used them in any system befor and i am only going to use the cross over for my bass setup

 

I'd just do one out of wood personally, especially if you've never worked with fiberglass before. IMO a sub box is a bad place to start practicing and learning how to use it- you should try something smaller first. Another option to get the fiberglass look without the skill- is to build a wood box, and just build a fiberglass front fascia that bolts onto the front. That way you get a cool custom look, but don't have to worry about all the design crap or worry about structural integrity like you would building half of your sub box out of it.