Car Cranks but won't start...
 

So for the whole story, Wednesday morning I nearly ran my car out of gas. Now the monte won't start up,but it is cranking over. Any ideas what could be causing this and what your best guess on it is?

Edit: When I started it up it started up and instantly died and then now won't start but cranks. I'm thinking that it is a bad fuel filter or pump from running my gas tank dry, and that there was some fuel in the lines that is why my car ran for ~10 miles

Running on empty: Low gas in the tank can be costly <!-- .entry-header -->

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Most motorists today are pained at the thought of filling up with gasoline as prices hover around $4.00, but for those who put off the fuel stop until the last possibly moment, the costs could be even higher.
Waiting until your gas tank is almost empty before a fill up can be pricey, could be dangerous and downright inconvenient. “While the cases are rare, there is real potential of a costly mechanical problem,” says Consumer Reports Auto Test Center shop supervisor and certified mechanic John Ibbotson.
The gasoline acts like a coolant for the electric fuel-pump motor, so when you run very low, this allows the pump to suck in air, which creates heat and can cause the fuel pump to wear prematurely and potentially fail. The repair could end up costing a couple hundred dollars to fix—much more than the $4.00/gallon fill up.
Also, if there is dirt in the fuel tank, it could lead to blocking the fuel filter; again, another expensive repair.
Another effect of driving on a low tank is the risk of getting stranded or even in an accident when the car suddenly stops running--you could be in the middle of a busy highway or on a deserted road.


Luckily, these scary scenarios are preventable. Here are some tips to keep in mind to avoid running out of gas.

• Keep your gas tank no less than ¼ full.
• Fill up before heading out on a long trip or to work as you could get stuck in traffic and have a longer ride than intended.
• Don’t rely on your car to tell you how many miles are left, as those range numbers can be deceiving and run down quickly, depending on how you drive.
• We all want to save money at the pump, but instead of driving miles away to the gas station, use online tools or even smart phone apps to find the cheapest gas near your house.

So far, AAA hasn’t seen any measurable increase in roadside assistance calls for running out of gas—it’s still about 2 percent of the 30 million calls they receive each year. Let’s hope it stays that way, for cars stuck on the roadside are dangerous and can lead to traffic congestion, which in turn can reduce the fuel economy for hundreds of passersby.
For more on saving gas and for tips on how to maximize the fuel in your vehicle, see our guide to fuel economy.
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The lower the fuel level is the more room water has to evaporate out of the gasoline. This causes rust in the fuel tank and when you do run out of fuel you're running on all the nasty stuff that's collected at the bottom of the fuel tank.


Good Luck 4-Sure :thumbsup:

This sounds almost coincidental. Since you keep cranking it, make sure:
- You have a fully charged battery (even though it is cranking, it might be too weak to crank as strong as it should and get everything else going).
- Next, turn the key on (don't try to start), listen for the fuel pump to "hum", if it's not humming, you found the problem, dead pump.
- If it is humming, check what the fuel pressure is (I don't know exactly what it should be, but I want to say around 40 lbs PSI)

OH and top of the list should be, any engine codes...?

Throw a gauge on it and see what fuel pressure is.

0 fuel pressure. Only code is the nasty evap code. Tried starting with access door in trunk open (yes I know this is not super safe) and no dice, no hum and pump didn't even turn on. Replaced the relays as well. Guessing that this clarifies that it is the fuel pump? But I cannot get it to fit through the hole in the trunk?

I've never replaced a fuel pump on these yet, but that access hatch in the trunk is how you do it.... Here are the shop book instructions to remove the assembly that contains the fuel pump:
- Relieve the fuel system fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure .
- Remove the fuel sender access panel nuts.
- Remove the fuel sender access panel.
- Disconnect the fuel tank pressure sensor electrical connector.
- Disconnect the fuel sender electrical connector.
- Clean the fuel pipes, and fuel sender assembly to prevent possible fuel contamination during removal.
- Disconnect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Quick Connect Fitting(s) Service (Plastic Collar) .

Important - The modular fuel sender assembly will spring-up when the snap ring is removed.

- Remove the fuel sender retaining ring.
- Remove the modular fuel sender assembly.
- Clean the fuel sender assembly sealing surfaces.
- Inspect the fuel sender assembly sealing surfaces.

Replaced fuel pump this morning. Such an easy install on these cars (took a total of maybe 15 minutes if that) car is firing right up. Fuel pressure with key on and engine off is at 56-57. This sound normal?

I'm not sure what normal pressure is (I thought it was around 40). Plus aftermarket pumps may change the game on that a little bit.

But you're back in business!! That's the important part :)