Turbo monte current build has been demodded.
#31
Greg I am using the walbro 485 that's already been installed in the tank. I have -6 fuel lines and hope they will work but if not then I will go to -8.
A Dyno can be manipulated to read wrong for sure. But if you compare uncorrected numbers then the Dyno isn't calculating anything so as long as humidity and temperature is close and of course altitude then is will read very close from Dyno to Dyno.
I do agree though, you can't manipulate a 1/4 time so that is hands down what the car can and will do. Which I will also be going for this coming year hopefully. Hoping for a 10.7 or quicker.
A Dyno can be manipulated to read wrong for sure. But if you compare uncorrected numbers then the Dyno isn't calculating anything so as long as humidity and temperature is close and of course altitude then is will read very close from Dyno to Dyno.
I do agree though, you can't manipulate a 1/4 time so that is hands down what the car can and will do. Which I will also be going for this coming year hopefully. Hoping for a 10.7 or quicker.
#32
My fuel system has been a headache since day one, I think there is a design error from the Las Vegas shop. Are all of your fuel lines still using the factory tank input / out put line locations? My factory connection points were removed from use and they penetrated the tank and ran the lines from there. Seems like my fuel is always overheating, have AN-10 all the way to the fuel rails. Something is inherently wrong with my design. Do you have fuel dampeners on your fuel rails? Why not if you don't, why do I need them? Seems if I don't my fuel pressure is all over the map, I have the ZZP billet fuel rails. Wrote them and they said these can handle my build, just hate my system. Want to be trouble free like yours are. Should not be so dang hard, but no one seems to be able to figure it out. have went through 3 Aeromotive Eliminator pumps and this Weldon is no better, as you know these are not cheap pumps, but they all fail after being on the car for a year or so. Put them on the frame, in the tank, back on the frame. All the work they are doing, they get louder and louder till they stop working.
So now I'm redoing the entire fuel system, new tank, using factory connections etc. Your doing so much with your fuel system with out going through all the crap I have had to do.
That would be so nasty to get into the 10's, my fingers are crossed for you. Exciting to see this come to life...
So now I'm redoing the entire fuel system, new tank, using factory connections etc. Your doing so much with your fuel system with out going through all the crap I have had to do.
That would be so nasty to get into the 10's, my fingers are crossed for you. Exciting to see this come to life...
Last edited by ZIPPY02; 01-31-2017 at 08:25 PM.
#33
My fuel system is a walbro 485 pump with rewire. Factory line locations. Using custom fuel rails but I used stock rails with no issues also. I am now running a adjustable FPR do to the walbro 485. I have had no issues so far. Idk what you mean by dampeners but guess I don't have them lol. I have no issues with fuel getting too hot at all either.
#34
My fuel system is a walbro 485 pump with rewire. Factory line locations. Using custom fuel rails but I used stock rails with no issues also. I am now running a adjustable FPR do to the walbro 485. I have had no issues so far. Idk what you mean by dampeners but guess I don't have them lol. I have no issues with fuel getting too hot at all either.
#35
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mentor, Ohio
Posts: 12,156
Dang Greg! I never knew you had and are still having fueling issues. Admittedly, this area of modding is way outside my realm at the moment, so I don't have ideas to offer up.
Considering you and John probably have two of the heaviest modded Montes, if John carries forward with no fueling issues, perhaps there is some useful info.
Considering you and John probably have two of the heaviest modded Montes, if John carries forward with no fueling issues, perhaps there is some useful info.
#36
Greg idk what fuel dampeners are but you should seriously consider either going with a walbro 485 like I have or have the shop do twin walbro 255 pumps for you. They go in tank so the fuel in tank will keep pumps cool to reduce the pumps from heating the fuel. It works well for me and I am supporting power like you with it so it's an option for you. I know you just bought the CTS-V pump so you can try that also but if it doesn't work I would suggest doing what I have.
#37
Well here she is everyone! The new Borg Warner s369 turbo with divided t4 .91 housing. It's physically so much bigger, gonna be a hard fit but we will get her in there.
#38
Zippy, for your fuel pump issues:
-I totally agree with turbo that the pump choice is not good. If it was a drag car only they'd be fine, but those aren't particularly good as long lasting street pumps. Something like a Walbro is a good choice for street use. Plenty of people make monster power on that style pump too as they just add a second (or even third) for the extra volume as needed.
-As far as your fuel heating issue, that can become troublesome when you've got a lot of pump and no use for the fuel (such as idle and light cruise). The fuel just keeps pumping up to the motor and back picking up more and more heat each time from the pump and engine. One option is to run dual pumps (like the walbros) with the second pump on a hobbs switch. That way there's a lot less fuel pumping around until you hit boost. The other option is a speed controller. This will pulse the pumps at low engine speeds so they're not pushing nearly as much fuel, but then gradually ramp into full flow at a pre set rpm. This is what I've been running since I switched to dual pumps.
I see where you mentioned going back to the stock tank ports as well. I dont think this will help solve any of your current issues. I dunno what size they are on a 6th gen, but the stock ports are certainly a lot smaller than the 5/8" / -10 hose you're running now.
What I did with my dual pumps was to just drill the top plate for the tank to add new/bigger ports. Then you just screw in aftermarket pass through fittings for whatever size you need. Last you just hook in with flexible line inside the tank to your pump.
I don't run a dampener on my setup either. I know some of the later l67 rails had a small one built in though from the factory. But with dual walbro 255s and 110# injectors, I saw no notable fluctuation in my gauge reading at the FPR pressure side.
it depends what is causing the pulsation as to if a dampener would help. Since there have been a lot of high power 3800s without them, I'd think there is something else going on. My first thoughts would be sporadic pump output or a FPR that wasn't cycling smoothly. If it was rpm dependent, it could be a harmonic in the system due to the way it's laid out.
-I totally agree with turbo that the pump choice is not good. If it was a drag car only they'd be fine, but those aren't particularly good as long lasting street pumps. Something like a Walbro is a good choice for street use. Plenty of people make monster power on that style pump too as they just add a second (or even third) for the extra volume as needed.
-As far as your fuel heating issue, that can become troublesome when you've got a lot of pump and no use for the fuel (such as idle and light cruise). The fuel just keeps pumping up to the motor and back picking up more and more heat each time from the pump and engine. One option is to run dual pumps (like the walbros) with the second pump on a hobbs switch. That way there's a lot less fuel pumping around until you hit boost. The other option is a speed controller. This will pulse the pumps at low engine speeds so they're not pushing nearly as much fuel, but then gradually ramp into full flow at a pre set rpm. This is what I've been running since I switched to dual pumps.
I see where you mentioned going back to the stock tank ports as well. I dont think this will help solve any of your current issues. I dunno what size they are on a 6th gen, but the stock ports are certainly a lot smaller than the 5/8" / -10 hose you're running now.
What I did with my dual pumps was to just drill the top plate for the tank to add new/bigger ports. Then you just screw in aftermarket pass through fittings for whatever size you need. Last you just hook in with flexible line inside the tank to your pump.
I don't run a dampener on my setup either. I know some of the later l67 rails had a small one built in though from the factory. But with dual walbro 255s and 110# injectors, I saw no notable fluctuation in my gauge reading at the FPR pressure side.
it depends what is causing the pulsation as to if a dampener would help. Since there have been a lot of high power 3800s without them, I'd think there is something else going on. My first thoughts would be sporadic pump output or a FPR that wasn't cycling smoothly. If it was rpm dependent, it could be a harmonic in the system due to the way it's laid out.
#39
Here is the Borg Warner 8374 I have installed...Has it's own integrated wastegate and BOV
#40
Zippy, for your fuel pump issues:
-I totally agree with turbo that the pump choice is not good. If it was a drag car only they'd be fine, but those aren't particularly good as long lasting street pumps. Something like a Walbro is a good choice for street use. Plenty of people make monster power on that style pump too as they just add a second (or even third) for the extra volume as needed.
-As far as your fuel heating issue, that can become troublesome when you've got a lot of pump and no use for the fuel (such as idle and light cruise). The fuel just keeps pumping up to the motor and back picking up more and more heat each time from the pump and engine. One option is to run dual pumps (like the walbros) with the second pump on a hobbs switch. That way there's a lot less fuel pumping around until you hit boost. The other option is a speed controller. This will pulse the pumps at low engine speeds so they're not pushing nearly as much fuel, but then gradually ramp into full flow at a pre set rpm. This is what I've been running since I switched to dual pumps.
I see where you mentioned going back to the stock tank ports as well. I dont think this will help solve any of your current issues. I dunno what size they are on a 6th gen, but the stock ports are certainly a lot smaller than the 5/8" / -10 hose you're running now.
What I did with my dual pumps was to just drill the top plate for the tank to add new/bigger ports. Then you just screw in aftermarket pass through fittings for whatever size you need. Last you just hook in with flexible line inside the tank to your pump.
I don't run a dampener on my setup either. I know some of the later l67 rails had a small one built in though from the factory. But with dual walbro 255s and 110# injectors, I saw no notable fluctuation in my gauge reading at the FPR pressure side.
it depends what is causing the pulsation as to if a dampener would help. Since there have been a lot of high power 3800s without them, I'd think there is something else going on. My first thoughts would be sporadic pump output or a FPR that wasn't cycling smoothly. If it was rpm dependent, it could be a harmonic in the system due to the way it's laid out.
-I totally agree with turbo that the pump choice is not good. If it was a drag car only they'd be fine, but those aren't particularly good as long lasting street pumps. Something like a Walbro is a good choice for street use. Plenty of people make monster power on that style pump too as they just add a second (or even third) for the extra volume as needed.
-As far as your fuel heating issue, that can become troublesome when you've got a lot of pump and no use for the fuel (such as idle and light cruise). The fuel just keeps pumping up to the motor and back picking up more and more heat each time from the pump and engine. One option is to run dual pumps (like the walbros) with the second pump on a hobbs switch. That way there's a lot less fuel pumping around until you hit boost. The other option is a speed controller. This will pulse the pumps at low engine speeds so they're not pushing nearly as much fuel, but then gradually ramp into full flow at a pre set rpm. This is what I've been running since I switched to dual pumps.
I see where you mentioned going back to the stock tank ports as well. I dont think this will help solve any of your current issues. I dunno what size they are on a 6th gen, but the stock ports are certainly a lot smaller than the 5/8" / -10 hose you're running now.
What I did with my dual pumps was to just drill the top plate for the tank to add new/bigger ports. Then you just screw in aftermarket pass through fittings for whatever size you need. Last you just hook in with flexible line inside the tank to your pump.
I don't run a dampener on my setup either. I know some of the later l67 rails had a small one built in though from the factory. But with dual walbro 255s and 110# injectors, I saw no notable fluctuation in my gauge reading at the FPR pressure side.
it depends what is causing the pulsation as to if a dampener would help. Since there have been a lot of high power 3800s without them, I'd think there is something else going on. My first thoughts would be sporadic pump output or a FPR that wasn't cycling smoothly. If it was rpm dependent, it could be a harmonic in the system due to the way it's laid out.