I use castrol part synthetic (green bottle) I used the fully synthetic one before but I didn't notice anything. I kno its suspose to be better but aren't you suspose to see an improvement somewhere

 

The improvement would be your engine running more smoothly and keeping it cleaner. Not like your gonna feel it go faster or anything lol

 

This is very not true. The thing is, synthetic oil is not an entirely different product like the name implies. Synthetic oil and mineral oil are both mineral based. Synthetic oil is more refined with more "impurities" or "undesirables" removed. It is more soluble, so there are different additives like viscosity index improvers, which is why there are more viscosity options with synthetic (5W50). And more detergents to better clean your engine. You'd probably find your oil get dirtier quickly after to first change to synthetic, but that's not bad. Dirty oil tells you that the oil is cleaning the engine.

 

Valvoline likes to say that bit Brent just said.... and maybe they're right... the government lets them call that stuff "synthetic."

A true synthetic oil is not based on mineral oil though, it's lab grown! There's two different basis used... can't remember what they're called.

Soemone asked a question about 15W50 earlier... mostly race engines and engines that would run high rpms for long periods of time run that.


As far as I'm concerned, organic oil is as antiquated as a Model T. I run synthetics in everything, classics and all....

You can mix synthetic and orgnaic oils. That's all synthetic blends are. They imply that synthetic blends are 50/50, but they aren't... most are like 70/30 or so. And not to the preferred end!


I don't know about other companies, but I know that Mobil 1 and Royal Purple are genuine true synthetic oils. Amsoil is up there too. I'd run any of those. I'm running Mobil 1 in 2 of my vehicles right now because I got a great deal on it at Sam's Club. $36 for a case of 6! In hte past, I generally run Royal Purple.

On my FoMoCo's, I run a Motorcraft filter. When I had GM, I would usually run a Delco or if I felt like throwing money around, a Napa Gold (same as a Wix) or a Mobil 1.

 

If you just have a stock motor that's old it may be ok but I do know on older performance engines synthetic oil will ruin them. My uncle ruined his 454 putting synthetic in and I know of several others that he found out from after he did it. They are not made for that kind of oil I would be careful

 

$5-6 is typically what you get Mobil one for here a qt Sometime higher but I always buy for that

 

Thanks... Good to know... This way I may make the switch myself...

 

Synthetic and conventional can mix, so you don’t need to get all of the previous oil out.

Engine flushes aren’t really for flushing oil. They act like drain cleaners, washing carbon deposits out of your engine. In an engine flush, the technician removes a bit of the oil, adds the flush additive and runs the engine. The chemical loosens all the, er, crap. It gets washed into the engine’s oil and caught in the oil filter. Then the oil is changed normally.

 

Removes some oil or all of it. Two kinds lol I used to work at an oil change.

 

The problem in a lot of those older style performance engines wasn't the type of oil, it was the anti-wear addatives. A lot of newer oils don't haev ZDDP (a zinc phosphate compound) that was used to stop wear back in the day. It's been removed fro mmodern oils because of its tendency to screw up catalytic converters. Push rod engines need that additive while modern roller cams do not. So when you have a performance engine with a lot of spring pressure against push rods pushing against a cam shaft, and you switch to a modern synthetic that may not have the correct additive, you'll wipe a camshaft. If you buy something like Royal Purple HPS (what I run in my old push rod engines) or an Amsoil racing oil or some street equivalent with ZDDP.... you're good. Those oils won't have the API Seal of approval because they don't meet modern emissions standards.