Engine Build: engine swap need trans advice
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 12
engine swap need trans advice
Hello.
Just got my hands on a 383 stroker from blueprint. Before I start the swap, is it better to keep the trans in place or pull it with the motor? I'm keeping the current transmission so it's staying in the car. If it's easier to keep in the car do I still need to take out the drive shift and un do the the cross member?
Just got my hands on a 383 stroker from blueprint. Before I start the swap, is it better to keep the trans in place or pull it with the motor? I'm keeping the current transmission so it's staying in the car. If it's easier to keep in the car do I still need to take out the drive shift and un do the the cross member?
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 185
From: Los Angeles, CA
If you're doing the work yourself, that's a question only you can answer.
Speaking for myself, I pulled the engine out by itself, leaving the transmission in the car. I didn't want to have to deal with managing transmission fluid collection, leakage, clean up, etc., not to mention having to unbolt more stuff if I could avoid it.
I removed all the accessories from the front of the engine as well as the starter and oil filter before I pulled the engine.
I have headers so I simply unbolted the headers from the heads leaving them in the car too. If you have stock exhaust manifolds, you'd be wise to unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifolds and remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds still attached to the engine.
Speaking for myself, I pulled the engine out by itself, leaving the transmission in the car. I didn't want to have to deal with managing transmission fluid collection, leakage, clean up, etc., not to mention having to unbolt more stuff if I could avoid it.
I removed all the accessories from the front of the engine as well as the starter and oil filter before I pulled the engine.
I have headers so I simply unbolted the headers from the heads leaving them in the car too. If you have stock exhaust manifolds, you'd be wise to unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifolds and remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds still attached to the engine.
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 185
From: Los Angeles, CA
Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate.
Disconnect the vacuum line going from the intake manifold to the modulator on the transmission.
Disconnect the transmission kickdown cable.
Support the transmission at the front of the pan.
Attach engine hoist with gimbal/load balancer to engine then lift just enough to put tension on the chains but not to raise it.
Unbolt transmission from engine by removing the top bolts first. Note: the transmission will not "fall" from the engine because there are large alignment rods on either side of the rear of the block.
Remove engine-mount thru-bolts.
Increase tension on hoist.
Raise the engine enough to separate the two halves of the engine mounts then, while keeping the transmission supported, separate/pry engine from transmission – it helps to have a dedicated transmission lift or a transmission lift adaptor for your floor jack. The engine will need to be moved forward about an inch so as to clear the alignment rods.
Go back and forth with raising the hoist a little bit then prying the engine from the transmission a bit until separation is complete – it helps if you have a helper but it can be done solo.
Once separation is complete, the engine can be maneuvered out of the car.
Disconnect the vacuum line going from the intake manifold to the modulator on the transmission.
Disconnect the transmission kickdown cable.
Support the transmission at the front of the pan.
Attach engine hoist with gimbal/load balancer to engine then lift just enough to put tension on the chains but not to raise it.
Unbolt transmission from engine by removing the top bolts first. Note: the transmission will not "fall" from the engine because there are large alignment rods on either side of the rear of the block.
Remove engine-mount thru-bolts.
Increase tension on hoist.
Raise the engine enough to separate the two halves of the engine mounts then, while keeping the transmission supported, separate/pry engine from transmission – it helps to have a dedicated transmission lift or a transmission lift adaptor for your floor jack. The engine will need to be moved forward about an inch so as to clear the alignment rods.
Go back and forth with raising the hoist a little bit then prying the engine from the transmission a bit until separation is complete – it helps if you have a helper but it can be done solo.
Once separation is complete, the engine can be maneuvered out of the car.
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,297
From: Isanti, MN
Was it a complete engine or just a long block ? Depending on the engine it might need a special balancer and flywheel. Personally I'd just pull the engine and keep the transmission in the car. I've done both ways, but just the engine is simple.