How hard is it to replace the bottom motor mount on a 5.3? :/ mine is broke and shop wants to charge 600+

 

Which one is broke the front lower or the rear lower?

 

Lower front right I believe he said

 

Ok, it is referred to as your hydraulic mount as it is an oil filled mount.
There are 3 choices, Delphi(oe), DEA, Arrow
I used the DEA version, www.rockauto.com
Hard to change .... no
There is a shield on your original unit that you must carefully pry off and carry over to the new unit.
Here is an old broken unit, when you turn it sideways or over oil will drain out!



You will need small floor jack and stands, a short/shallow and a deep 15mm socket, at least a 2 foot extension, a universal joint, ratchet and a few common hand tools screwdriver, needle nose pliers, flashlight.


Loosen the passenger side front wheel lugs, then jack car safely and remove the pass side wheel. Now remove the small debris shield at the front of the wheel well (2-3 plastic pushpins, they may break so you may need some )


With hood open, remove the 2 spark plug wires at the front closest to the accessory drive. I f you shine your light down there you will see the 2 nuts, remove them ( you may only get them so far with the socket due to space but if this happens wait until you have the 2 from under the car removed and come back)
Now from under the car remove the 2 nuts there and position the floor jack under th bottom of the engine (piece of wood between jack and engine) and lift the engine slowly, approx. 2" (during this time if you had trouble with the upper nuts you will find more play there now.
With the engine up and nuts removed you can reach in through the wheel well opening and maneuver the old mount out through there. Carefully remove the shield and place on the new mount and reverse the removal process. The 2 upper nuts must be started first by hand and equally tighten them down by hand as far as you can while the engine is still raised. Lower the engine slowly and guide the lower studs thru the frame and secure.

 

Wow thanks dude! I didn't know they had the term hydrolic mounts, I thought they were like a piece of metal that broke that held the engine. . When the guy showed me and revved my engine it shook and jumped like the right side wasn't being held down at all. Damn.

 

Yes they are a known problem... I ordered and changed all 5 mounts on mine at home in around an hour (but my car was already on jacks and wheels removed). If I was to do it from start to finish maybe 4 hours to do all of them.
Here is a link that may help: Power Steering Reservoir

 

Ahh dude your awsome bro. I knew I recongized your name from ls4 before. Im not a member there but I do read there sometimes. I see you changed all 5, how much did that run you? And as far as an extension, how long of a extension do I need? I find it funny that the shops computer totalled it to 4 hours of work, when you did yours in a hour, and Im sure the shop has power tools as well.

 

I got all of them thru rock auto in the states shipped to Canada for around 260 bucks.
Yes the book says 4 hrs as the instructions say to remove half of the front of the engine.. obviously wrong!
If you do decide (recommended) to change them all they are pretty easy except for the rear lower which is a little more complicated but I can walk you thru it easy enough.
The P/N`s are ( just enter the P/N`s on the rockauto site it will bring them up for you.
A5323HY hyd mount (right front lower)
A5372 torque strut mount
A2990 mount (right rear lower)
A5263 mount torque strut arm
A5402 trans mount (left lower)


as for the extension I used 2@6" and a 12" 3/8 drive. Also the short socket was only about a inch high.

 

I think I will just change the front for now, and once upon viewing the others I will decide to change those as well, but probably during the summer time because im in the midst of moving which is why I was like WHOAAA 600 bucks to change a mount? Crazzzyyyy.

 

I appreicate your help by the way. And thank you for taking your time out to find that thread for me