detailing a black car
#2
10-22-2013, 09:30 AM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 25,136
Use HIGH quality microfiber cloths. Not something that you buy at walmart, or an autoparts store. Something extremely plush like this: Chemical Guys MIC_1023_1 - Ultra Plush Microfiber Detailing Towel, 16" x 16"
Use plenty of microfibers, try not to rub dirt into the paint.
Start with a claybar kit. Then use a good compound to get out deeper scratches. Follow it up with a good polish to take out fine scratches. Use a really good carnauba wax to protect your paint.
It takes A LOT of time to get a black car looking good.
Use plenty of microfibers, try not to rub dirt into the paint.
Start with a claybar kit. Then use a good compound to get out deeper scratches. Follow it up with a good polish to take out fine scratches. Use a really good carnauba wax to protect your paint.
It takes A LOT of time to get a black car looking good.
#3
10-22-2013, 09:38 AM
Monte Of The Month -- November 2012
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Agree'd!
Just takes a lot of time and work! But the payoff is awesome!
Microfibers is a must for sure as Mike said.
I Wash mine with Meguiars Ultimate wash. Dry it off with microfibers then go over it with Meguiars Ultimate liquid wax as well.
Works for me! You can just about use anything though as long as ya take your time!
Just takes a lot of time and work! But the payoff is awesome!
Microfibers is a must for sure as Mike said.
I Wash mine with Meguiars Ultimate wash. Dry it off with microfibers then go over it with Meguiars Ultimate liquid wax as well.
Works for me! You can just about use anything though as long as ya take your time!
Last edited by MnteCrloSS47; 10-22-2013 at 09:43 AM.
#5
10-22-2013, 12:06 PM
I've had good success with Turtle Wax Black Box polish and wax. I use a meguiars buffer with black and yellow pads.
What everyone else has said about microfiber and clay bar is correct. You would be surprised how much dirt comes off of the paint when you clay bar after your first wash.
What everyone else has said about microfiber and clay bar is correct. You would be surprised how much dirt comes off of the paint when you clay bar after your first wash.
#6
10-22-2013, 12:16 PM
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#7
10-22-2013, 01:18 PM
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 25,136
I would avoid the black box. It's a pretty cheap wax, poor protection and just tries to fill in the scratches with a dye. So once it rains a couple of times they come back. Instead of actually fixing the clear with compound.
#8
10-22-2013, 02:03 PM
I am in the process of detailing my Red Jewel 2007 MCSS. I've always used an orbital buffer and OTC products with what I thought were good results...
When I purchased the Red Jewel 07 last month, it had a good shine on the paint, but there were many visible scratches from (I'm guessing) a life of automatic car washes...I tried my usual method of detailing with so-so results. However, I knew I could do better if I had the right products.
So, after extensively researching the subject of proper detailing, I purchased a Porter Cable 7424XP dual action polisher and an assortment of Lake Country CCS 5.5" foam pads. Each foam pad color has a specific purpose, and the speed of the polisher is also critical for effective paint restoration. I am also using Meguiars Ultimate Compund, Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Wax.
The results? AMAZING. The paint is now as close to show quality as it can get. The scratches are gone as well as any other imperfections that were visible, and the reflection is like a mirror. These results are simply not possible using a normal orbital buffer and off the shelf pads.
I am simply amazed at how well a proper polisher and specific foam pads can make such a visible difference in paint. I was able to remove all paint defects and bring the finish to an incredible depth and shine.
Being that Red Jewel paint is deep and dark, similar to Black paint, I am positive that you would see the same results using this system on your Black Monte...I will never detail a car the "normal" way again.
Total investment = Under $200 (polisher, pads & products)
When I purchased the Red Jewel 07 last month, it had a good shine on the paint, but there were many visible scratches from (I'm guessing) a life of automatic car washes...I tried my usual method of detailing with so-so results. However, I knew I could do better if I had the right products.
So, after extensively researching the subject of proper detailing, I purchased a Porter Cable 7424XP dual action polisher and an assortment of Lake Country CCS 5.5" foam pads. Each foam pad color has a specific purpose, and the speed of the polisher is also critical for effective paint restoration. I am also using Meguiars Ultimate Compund, Ultimate Polish and Ultimate Wax.
The results? AMAZING. The paint is now as close to show quality as it can get. The scratches are gone as well as any other imperfections that were visible, and the reflection is like a mirror. These results are simply not possible using a normal orbital buffer and off the shelf pads.
I am simply amazed at how well a proper polisher and specific foam pads can make such a visible difference in paint. I was able to remove all paint defects and bring the finish to an incredible depth and shine.
Being that Red Jewel paint is deep and dark, similar to Black paint, I am positive that you would see the same results using this system on your Black Monte...I will never detail a car the "normal" way again.
Total investment = Under $200 (polisher, pads & products)
#9
10-22-2013, 05:16 PM
One big thing to remember is to only wipe in one direction. Once you start wiping in circles or back and forth you start running the risk of putting pig tail scratches in your paint which you can see in any direction and are also way harder to get out then if you have a straight line scratch.
Also try a product called Ammo Hydrate. You can get it at Ammonyc.com. you spray a couple squirts on a microfiber and the you dry a panel, ring out your microfiber, then wipe it again until the panel is dry. Do that to the whole car then go back and buff off any residue with a dry microfiber. This product helps to dry the car and also adds lubrication so if you have any more dust that falls on the car between the wash and the drying process it is way way way less likely to scratch. Drying is one of the main things that people don't think about that actually has one of the highest chances of scratching the paint.
Also try a product called Ammo Hydrate. You can get it at Ammonyc.com. you spray a couple squirts on a microfiber and the you dry a panel, ring out your microfiber, then wipe it again until the panel is dry. Do that to the whole car then go back and buff off any residue with a dry microfiber. This product helps to dry the car and also adds lubrication so if you have any more dust that falls on the car between the wash and the drying process it is way way way less likely to scratch. Drying is one of the main things that people don't think about that actually has one of the highest chances of scratching the paint.
#10
10-22-2013, 05:47 PM
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
Posts: 4,779
Mine looks good but I have to go another direction in my method because (a) it takes me forever to polish and wax (apply and remove) by hand and (b) whatever I'm currently doing, while it looks great out of direct sunlight, is leaving very fine scratches in the clear coat and they're visible mostly in the sun. I dry the car with microfiber drying towels and apply/remove wax with microfiber cloths so not really sure what's to blame.
I have been looking into getting a polisher wand the appropriate applicator pads so maybe that's something I'll get this winter, then go at it in the spring.
Like iMuf stated, do nothing on the paint in circular motions.
Also, anyone else heard that GM's clear coat tends to scratch fairly easy compared to other manufacturers? I heard that from someone recently; can't remember where though.
I have been looking into getting a polisher wand the appropriate applicator pads so maybe that's something I'll get this winter, then go at it in the spring.
Like iMuf stated, do nothing on the paint in circular motions.
Also, anyone else heard that GM's clear coat tends to scratch fairly easy compared to other manufacturers? I heard that from someone recently; can't remember where though.
