First a couple nods, thanks to Mickey for his dashboard removal how to, I just sobered it up and thanks to Justin over on the grandamgt boards that gave me his insight.

Remove the Dash

1. Take the side panel off the dash (one by the door on the end of the dash)
remove the screw.
2. Remove the lower most panel on the drivers side foot well.
watch the wires for the trunk release.
3. When you get that one, the next one just snaps out, pull up on it.
4. There is a screw in the end cap, the one in the glove compartment
and one in the lower part of the dash by the gauge cluster you need to remove.
5. Now take your key off the key ring. (This is so it can go threw the dash with out breaking anything and also with out hurting the ingnition switch) Take the ignition switch ring off. It just clips in, use a small screwdriver to remove it.
6. Put your key in and set the parking brake.
7. Tilt the wheel all the way down.
8. Put the car in to low 1 gear with the car still off. Now grab the lower part of the dash on the passenger side with the glove box open and pull hard on the lower part of the dash but don’t let it go too far out .
9. Disconnect the hazard switch wires so that you can get the dash apart.
(it should pop lose for you. Now it is just a matter of spinning it in the right direction to get it over the steering wheel etc... )
10. Put the car in gear and turn off the switch.


Bypass the Passlock


1. Disconnect the Car Battery!
2. Remove the ignition keyswitch. Unscrew the two screws holding in the ignition. Wiggle the ignition out of its place and down toward the drivers side as best as you can (This will really take some effort to get it out so that you can access the wires behind it). I initially tried removing the radio to get behind the ignition switch but it is not possible due to a metal plate separating them.
3. (See Picture Below) There will be 3 wires in a black sheath coming out of the ignition. The wires are Black, Yellow, and White. You will need to cut back the black sheath to get to them. We will only be working with the Black and Yellow wires.
4. Cut the yellow wire. Leave enough coming out of the ignition that you can get to it later or reattach it if you ever want to. Leave enough coming from the car that you can solder to it. Strip back both ends of the yellow wire about 1/4".
5. DON'T CUT THE BLACK WIRE. Strip about 1/4" of the insulation off of the middle of the black wire. Do this in a place where you will be able to solder to it later. Again, use the razor.
6. Make sure that none of the bare wires are touching each other or bare metal and RECONNECT THE BATTERY.
7. Following the multimeter's instructions, connect one lead to the black wire. Connect the other lead to the half of the yellow wire that is attached to the ignition (not the half going to the car). It will be much easier if you have alligator clip leads for your meter. Insert your key and turn it to RUN but do not start the car. I did not get any reading at this point. Try to start the car. It should turn over and run for a second but then die. Read the value on the meter. I believe I was getting around 1.8k ohms. Your car will likely have a different value, so you have to measure it.
8. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY and the meter. Make sure the wires are not touching.
9. Use a combination of resistors to come up with a value as close to the value you read as possible. If you put the resistors in series just add the values for the total resistance. If you put them in parallel you will need to calculate it, if your using 2 resistors with the same value you can just divide that value by 2 for the total resistance. I believe I used two 3.6k ohm resistors in parallel (twist the ends together) to equal 1.8k ohms. Found this good online calculator for calculating resistors in parallel, PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR
10. Use test leads (wires with alligator clamps on each end) to connect one end of the resistors to the black wire and the other end to the yellow wire that goes to the car (not the yellow wire to the ignition keyswitch). Make sure that none of the wires is touching another wire or bare metal.
11. Reconnect the battery and attempt to start the car. It should start normally. If it doesn't, I would guess that your resistors are not of the proper values. Mine started, so I didn't get into troubleshooting.
12. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY and the test leads.
13. Solder 2" or so of 20-22 gauge wire onto either end of your resistors. Make sure the joints are very secure. If a resistor or wire becomes disconnected YOUR CAR WILL NOT START.
14. Tape off the yellow wire coming from the ignition switch. This wire is no longer used.
15. (See Picture Below) Slide shrink tubing over the yellow wire coming from the car. Solder one of the wires attached to the resistors to the yellow wire coming from the car. Slide the shrink tube over the joint and shrink it. I used shrink tube but I know not everyone may have easy access to shrink tube and a heat gun, wrapping it up in electrical tape also works.
16. Solder the other wire that is attached to the resistors to the stripped area of the black wire. Using good quality electrical tape (3M), tape this joint so that it is insulated and so that the tape supports the solder joint.
17. Reconnect the battery and try to start the car. It should start.
18. Slide the anti friction sheath back down over the wires if possible. Otherwise you can use electrical tape to stand in for the sheath. Move the ignition switch back into place, positioning the new wires so that they don't touch anything that will cut them. Be careful you don’t accidently tug any of the wires you just soldered.
19. Screw the ignition switch back into place, put the dash back in, and you are finished!

 

(Step 3) Unfortunately I did not take pictures when I did this, but I do have Justin's pictures. Here is a picture of the ignition switch. Notice he was able to remove his radio and pull it into the empty spot his radio use to be to access the wires behind the ignition switch. Unfortunately there is a metal plate there in our Montes so you have to wiggle the ignition switch toward the steering wheel and down to get access to the wires. You can see the Black, White, and Yellow wires you will need for the bypass procedure. Note how you need to strip the sheath of the Black wire but DO NOT cut it. Also cut and strip back the Yellow wire.

 

(Step 15) In this picture you can see the Red wire that is our bypass wire. The Red wire has shrink tube over it and inside the shrink tube are the resistors that are twisted together and have the red wire soldered to the ends. This Red wire is then soldered to the Black wire and the Yellow wire coming from the car.

 

All finished in this picture. Time to wrap the wires you just soldered with electrical tape. Also don't forget to tape off the unused yellow wire coming from the ignition.

 

Sorry for asking this but what exactly is the Bypass Passlock Security? Is that the day light's that come on automatically every time you start your car? Or when the door's lock by themselves when you put it into reverse or drive

Really I'm trying to figure it out 1st to know what the Passlock Security is and also because I'm wondering how to over ride or disconnect the auto day's since I'm going to be getting HID's soon and I don't want them to turn on every time I start my car during the day. It will waste my HID's even more than they should lol

 

Passlock is GM's OEM anti-theft system. It measures the resistance of the ignition circuit before it starts. Hence the bypass is measuring the resistance and soldering in the corresponding resistors.

I recently found this excellent page on the Passlock system including a guide on bypassing the passlock. It is for a Grand Am though but should be the same.

http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm


I highly recommend if you are going to do this to follow my method of soldering in the resistors and NOT using the method of soldering in a switch as others suggest. Two reasons, if you use a switch the security light will be on all the time And if you ever change the battery passlock will re-enable.

 

FYI if anyone is trying to do this for a remote start go to Crimestopper Security Products,Inc.. They make a box called the evo-all that can be found on amazon.com for around 35-40.00 that installs, learns and bypasses's the pass-lock with no headache's through the car's computer. I installed them in my carlo and silverado with ease and no headaches. Just run the power wires than hook up the data wire to the PCM by tapping into the purple wire on the OBD2 port. If your wanting to do a remote start with keyless entry, that box will control all of that stuff through the computer including accessories like defrost and heated seats or a/c without having to hard wire everything. I thought it was pretty awesome myself.

 

This bypass procedure would be helpful if your ignition switch was worn out and not providing the correct ressistance. To bebefit from the bypass you would have to do it before the switch stopped working.

Couldn't a faulty BCM still disable the car?

Thanks in advance. I am trying to learn and troubleshoot an intermitten problem with my MC.

 

I doubt a faulty BCM. The ignitions are way to common especially If you have changed out the BCM or PCM you will have to re learn the ignition to that module.

 

Just want to say thank-you so much for this GREAT information!!

I have been getting the Secuirty light popping on intermittantly for about a month, this morning woke up decided to go and get a Tim Hortons Coffee, and it wouldnt start.

So instead of having a relaxing Sunday, i looked up this Forum, printed off your Instructions and went for it!! It worked Great!!

ThankYou so much, if this Happens GM, should give you the option of dissabling it at a much lower cost or fix it (which ive seen is anywhere between $700-$1000.....ridiculous)

Your Method cost me in all $30, for a box of resistors and a new soldering iron!!

This is a Great Forum. Thanks Again.